Koni insert disassembly?

PostPost by: nomad » Tue Oct 25, 2016 10:56 pm

Allan, exactly what I had in mind but the use of Delran or Nylon I had not considered. I'm afraid I had visions of just a steel tube but now I realize that a material that would not cause undue wear would be best! :D

Thanks!
Kurt.
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Wed Oct 26, 2016 9:38 am

I know it's a bit of a draw out / Expencive way of doing it but could you not get some one local to you to make a pair of these up http://www.kelsport.net/parts/product_d ... ctionID=26
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PostPost by: nomad » Thu Oct 27, 2016 2:36 am

Grizzly wrote:I know it's a bit of a draw out / Expencive way of doing it but could you not get some one local to you to make a pair of these up http://www.kelsport.net/parts/product_d ... ctionID=26


Yet another method....wonder if that would clear the body and allow the rubber plugs to be fitted.

Kurt.
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Thu Oct 27, 2016 12:48 pm

nomad wrote:
Grizzly wrote:I know it's a bit of a draw out / Expencive way of doing it but could you not get some one local to you to make a pair of these up http://www.kelsport.net/parts/product_d ... ctionID=26


Yet another method....wonder if that would clear the body and allow the rubber plugs to be fitted.

Kurt.

A friend has a pair fitted (but on a +2) and how their designed with a Spherical bearing in the top it doesn't make a huge difference to the clearance. You only get 3/8" less droop which is enough, i suspect if you need more than that clearance would be an issue.

One thing i didn't mention was i contacted Koni for a price to shorten the stroke and rebuild a set of new red bodied Koni's (the old push in to adjust type), i was told ?100-150 each so i just went with a pair of AVO's from kelsport for ?90 each.
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Thu Oct 27, 2016 6:23 pm

Hello Guys,
Can we go back to Gearbox`s method for a moment please. I intend to fit CV drive shafts (probably Kelvedon) this winter, and am very interested in his suggestion.
Having found a receipt in the history file of my car, it seems that I have Koni shock absorbers fitted. They should be OK as the car has only done about 5000 miles since going back on the road.
Can anyone suggest what length the internal droop limiting spacer would need to be or how do I determine this.
A second factor is that I can probably do this modification for nothing, against approx. ?200.00 for the new shocks recommended by Kelvedon. That`s my sort of price.
As usual, any ideas or suggestions are welcome.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Thu Oct 27, 2016 10:04 pm

ericbushby wrote:
Can anyone suggest what length the internal droop limiting spacer would need to be or how do I determine this.

lotus-suspension-f42/rear-shock-length-for-joint-driveshafts-t30787.html

How do you know if you have Gas or oil struts? I know Koni/Spax gas struts are usually yellow? Is it just a matter of age?
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Thu Oct 27, 2016 10:13 pm

Just doing some reading up and found this that may interest you https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7cOiwZPlTg i think it's more or less as explained already.






Is there a trick to removing/refitting the Lotacone bolts? the last time i had to remove them on the car i struggled badly and ended up using a crowfoot wrench. I was just wondering if there is a better way of doing it? it had crossed my mind to fit Torx and Hex headed bolts? but it's just one of those jobs that seems more of a struggle than it should be.
eu612-w14.jpg and
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Fri Oct 28, 2016 10:39 am

With smaller diameter rear springs and top spring cap and hex socket headed cap screws mounting the lotocone it makes easy removal with a hex key.

cheers
Rohan
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PostPost by: Grizzly » Fri Oct 28, 2016 10:53 am

I'm sure it does and if i had any plans to fit bigger wheels i would do it, but as it stands i don't want to start modifying the freshly plated spring platforms if i don't have to. I just wondered if there was an easier way for those with stock rear strut assembly's.
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Sun Nov 06, 2016 10:37 am

Thanks Chris,
Sorry for the delay in responding. I have been watching and learning. I intend to try something like that. I will post the result if and when there is one.
Eric in Burnley
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PostPost by: gearbox » Sun Nov 06, 2016 3:17 pm

ericbushby wrote:Hello Guys,
Can we go back to Gearbox`s method for a moment please. I intend to fit CV drive shafts (probably Kelvedon) this winter, and am very interested in his suggestion.
Having found a receipt in the history file of my car, it seems that I have Koni shock absorbers fitted. They should be OK as the car has only done about 5000 miles since going back on the road.
Can anyone suggest what length the internal droop limiting spacer would need to be or how do I determine this.
A second factor is that I can probably do this modification for nothing, against approx. ?200.00 for the new shocks recommended by Kelvedon. That`s my sort of price.
As usual, any ideas or suggestions are welcome.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC


Hi Eric;

Last time I did an Elan, I recall it was about 1.5", but best if you test fit the strut, let it go to full droop, and then raise the suspension so the axles are no more than a 22 degree deflection from straight. 20 degrees to be on the safe side. If you still have the donuts in the car, it still should give you the amount of travel that you want to limit and then all you have to do is to make the spacer. The last go around I needed shocks anyway and Tony Thompson told me that he does this to all of his fast road yellow Koni shocks as most people are now using CV's and the OEM droop is way too excessive even with the donuts. Maybe you can give him a call and see what he uses. The hardest part of the modification is getting the gland nut off the top of the shock body, especially if you are using used shocks. I normally apply heat from a propane torch on the body only as the gland nut has a seal. But with a good vise and pin or flange tool, it will come off. Good luck, and after you finished, you will be amazed at how easy it was. Allan
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Mon Nov 07, 2016 9:33 am

Allan, thanks for that. I will do as you suggest.
It is an area that I have not stripped down before, so I like to learn as much as I can before starting. I will report back, but it is not urgent so don`t hold your breath. The underside of the car is generally in good clean condition and things do come apart easily as a rule. Since going back on the road in 2011, it has never been wet washed and never gone out in the rain. It has sometimes come home in the rain!
Eric in Burnley
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