Handbrake (Yes sorry again)
Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 7:46 pm
Hi all.
I'm just about to set the handbrake up on my 2 seater and have spent the last few days reading old threads about it, i have set the handbrake on my +2 before now and it never seems to last long before it goes out of wack so i want to make sure i've not missed anything while i'm setting up the 2 seater.
So, i thought i'd list what i'm planning to do and see if there is anything i've missed.
New parts i have to fit...... Sue miller short cable, Sue miller Adjustable rods, new Handbrake Pads, new Disks (it has new Wheel bearings fitted too), new slightly oversized Clevis pins (drilled out pivots to remove wear), new original caliper return springs, extra caliper adjuster rod springs.
1. Check the disk run out and make sure the disk is centre of the caliper.
2. Make sure the Caliper arms are clean and move freely.
3. Reshape the Pad retaining springs (from recent experience i'd recommend replacing rather than reshaping for what they cost) fit the pads then adjust to 3thou clearance between disk / pad (fit the extra caliper adjuster rod springs during this stage and nyloc nut the adjuster when setup)
4. Check the handbrake tree is set to 2.5" and it's fixing bolt is not too tight so it moved side to side.
5. Fit the Cable and pull assembly inside the car making sure there is no grp Flex around it's mounting.
6. Adjust the Cable (under the engine mount) until the tree lever is 1/8-1/4" off the chassis tube making sure the handbrake is fully off inside the car, then tighten the adjuster Locking nut.
7. Put the car back onto it's wheels (move it back and forward a bit so the suspension settles) then adjust the new Rods until the securing bolt drops into the Caliper lever without moving it off the stop and keeping the tree as square as possible (not leaning one side or the other) and making sure the lever is still between 1/8-1/4 of the Chassis tube.
NOTE!! After recent issues with after marker brake disks it's worth checking the Disk is Central in the Caliper, as i found the handbrake pads drag badly if it's not spot on. Also make sure you have the correct Tree lever for use with the cut down Cable
All the pivots and Pull assembly inside the car will be well greased as it's assembled.
Does that sound about right? I'm hoping if i spend a bit of time getting it all set up correctly it might still work in twelve months
Thanks.
Chris
I'm just about to set the handbrake up on my 2 seater and have spent the last few days reading old threads about it, i have set the handbrake on my +2 before now and it never seems to last long before it goes out of wack so i want to make sure i've not missed anything while i'm setting up the 2 seater.
So, i thought i'd list what i'm planning to do and see if there is anything i've missed.
New parts i have to fit...... Sue miller short cable, Sue miller Adjustable rods, new Handbrake Pads, new Disks (it has new Wheel bearings fitted too), new slightly oversized Clevis pins (drilled out pivots to remove wear), new original caliper return springs, extra caliper adjuster rod springs.
1. Check the disk run out and make sure the disk is centre of the caliper.
2. Make sure the Caliper arms are clean and move freely.
3. Reshape the Pad retaining springs (from recent experience i'd recommend replacing rather than reshaping for what they cost) fit the pads then adjust to 3thou clearance between disk / pad (fit the extra caliper adjuster rod springs during this stage and nyloc nut the adjuster when setup)
4. Check the handbrake tree is set to 2.5" and it's fixing bolt is not too tight so it moved side to side.
5. Fit the Cable and pull assembly inside the car making sure there is no grp Flex around it's mounting.
6. Adjust the Cable (under the engine mount) until the tree lever is 1/8-1/4" off the chassis tube making sure the handbrake is fully off inside the car, then tighten the adjuster Locking nut.
7. Put the car back onto it's wheels (move it back and forward a bit so the suspension settles) then adjust the new Rods until the securing bolt drops into the Caliper lever without moving it off the stop and keeping the tree as square as possible (not leaning one side or the other) and making sure the lever is still between 1/8-1/4 of the Chassis tube.
NOTE!! After recent issues with after marker brake disks it's worth checking the Disk is Central in the Caliper, as i found the handbrake pads drag badly if it's not spot on. Also make sure you have the correct Tree lever for use with the cut down Cable
All the pivots and Pull assembly inside the car will be well greased as it's assembled.
Does that sound about right? I'm hoping if i spend a bit of time getting it all set up correctly it might still work in twelve months
Thanks.
Chris