Lotus Elan

Hub / Bearing Help!

PostPost by: KevJ+2 » Thu Apr 10, 2014 9:39 am

Hello all,
I've now fitted new bearings to the rear housings including the driveshafts and seemed okay. I have now offered up the hubs but they bottom out on the outer bearings.
Before I have a complete breakdown, I have to ask the question - have I put the inner bearing in the wrong way?
They have the groove for the older o ring and I've put this groove to the inside. Why? Because it seemed to make sense that the sealed face be on the outside, am I correct?
It seems like a possible reason for having a shorter outer shaft length or is my problem something else?
Assuming the bearings are correct, dare I ask if the hub could be machined to avoid touching the bearing (please be gentle with your replies :roll: )
Thanks in advance,
Kev
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PostPost by: robertverhey » Thu Apr 10, 2014 10:06 am

Ummm you did use the thinner early type bearing in the outer end of the shaft/housing? If the hub is bottoming before it sits on the axle taper it suggests that either the shaft hasn't come through far enough (I assume your hubs are type 18 yes?) or the outer bearing is protruding too far. I imagine if a wider type bearing was fitted to the outer side of the hub it could cause this bottoming.....were you able to fit the large circlip on the outer side of the hub?
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PostPost by: KevJ+2 » Thu Apr 10, 2014 10:15 am

Hi Robert,
Yes the bearings (from SJ) are correct and yes it is type 18. All 3 circlips are in place and all seems okay. I should add that the hub almost sits correctly. I covered the shaft with marker pen and contact is made. Also, when I pull the hub off, there is some resistance which means I'm almost there. Is there a set tolerance / gap between hub & bearing?
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PostPost by: Craven » Thu Apr 10, 2014 10:20 am

Hi,
Shoulder on inner part of the wide bearing faces inward (middle of hub) I know it doesn?t look right but that?s how it?s fitted.
Ron.
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PostPost by: alan » Thu Apr 10, 2014 11:20 am

imho i think you have hit the nail on the head. The inner wide bearing is fitted the wrong way round. Don't forget to put the shim in place before fitting the inner bearing
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PostPost by: KevJ+2 » Thu Apr 10, 2014 4:07 pm

Thanks to all for your replies. I phoned Andy at Spyder who confirmed the bearings were fitted the wrong way round.
I have stripped down both housings and it looks like I've got away with only the offending bearings being written off :?
This is a hard lesson because beleive it or not I photographed the stripdown and the bearings were in the wrong way to start with - a couple of circlips were missing and no wonder :shock:
One to remember, never assume what's already there is right.
Regards,
Kev.
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PostPost by: alan » Thu Apr 10, 2014 4:51 pm

remember to fit shim before bearing :wink:
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PostPost by: alan » Fri Apr 11, 2014 7:14 am

hi Kev,
i just thought , how was it possible to fit the shim/dust washer with the bearing the wrong way round. Surely it wasn't possible to fit the circlip to hold the shim/dust washer and bearing in place. It's a good idea to fit a new shim/dust washer because when you remove the old bearing sometimes they get damaged
good luck with the Learning curve working with lotuses
Alan
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PostPost by: alan » Fri Apr 11, 2014 7:20 am

ps,
you may have to very carefully trim the seal on the bearing with a Stanley knife to push the shim/dust washer fully into place and enable to fit circlip :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: KevJ+2 » Fri Apr 11, 2014 7:55 am

Hi Alan, I must admit to knowing nothing about the shim/dust cover. The bearing were fitted as they came with what seems the shoulder side sealed with the cover and that was my thought that it should go to the outside. If I get time, I will post a photo of the bearings but I will be glad if anyone else can.
Regards,
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PostPost by: tonyr27 » Fri Apr 11, 2014 8:43 am

Yesterday we changed the rear bearings on the S3. Glad I followed Brian Bucklands book and also had the use of a friends press.

I can see how easy it would be to get this wrong. :?

Hope you get it sorted soon Kev.

TonyR
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PostPost by: KevJ+2 » Fri Apr 11, 2014 10:11 am

Thanks Tony, and yes, Alan is right to say there should be a dirt shield / shim fitted.
Again because there were none fitted on dismantling I assumed none were needed.
So, to re-cap: The bearings to begin with were the wrong way round, half the circlips were missing and no dirt shields fitted :evil:
Probably a subject for another thread, but wouldn't it be nice to phone (some) people for parts and for them to ask if you if you have ordered everything required. These are jobs you hopefully won't be doing very often (unlike me!) so as few of us are experts, it's quite likely we forget all the things required.
Rant over :roll:
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PostPost by: tonyr27 » Fri Apr 11, 2014 12:16 pm

Kev I agree what you say about ordering parts. I ended up with only one new circlip but did get the dust shield. It would be helpful on some items such as wheel bearings to be able to be offered a full kit, this would include all items e.g circlips, bearings, dust shield.
I had no dust shield fitted too.

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PostPost by: mbell » Fri Apr 11, 2014 6:28 pm

If we get the wiki on on this site it might be a good topic for a DIY guide with lots of pictures and parts lists.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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PostPost by: alan » Mon Apr 14, 2014 8:48 am

if no dust shield is fitted it can let the bearing move in the Chapman strut and cause wear.
The alloy Chapman strut is very expensive to replace :mrgreen:
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