Lotus Elan

Trunnions, this must be the 1000th post...

PostPost by: Bud English » Mon Apr 23, 2012 9:57 pm

I've read through the numerous posts on trunnions both here and on the net in general. I have yet to find even the question that I have, let alone the answer. The manual doesn't address it either. It's probably that everyone knows but me.

When reassembling the trunnion to the upright, how far do you screw it on there? I'm guessing all the way on and backed off that fraction of a turn that gives you full travel (what will be "lock to lock" when installed) with no binding at the extreme tightening end of the travel. I don't like guessing. Can anyone give me a definitive answer?

Hey, this is the only car I've ever owned with trunnions.
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PostPost by: Panda » Mon Apr 23, 2012 10:44 pm

Hi Bud,
You are absolutely correct, you need as much thread as possible to give maximum bearing surface.
I presume you are aware that the trunnions are handed, left hand thread goes to left hand side and vice versa and of course use gear oil, not grease, to lubricate threads.
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PostPost by: ardee_selby » Mon Apr 23, 2012 10:46 pm

Bud,

This thread should help. It describes correct assembly & basically confirms your own conclusion...

elan-f15/reinstalling-trunnions-and-upper-ball-joints-t18246.html

When I did mine I removed the "lubrication" nipple in the upright, half filled the trunnion with the "lubricant" and screwed it on as far as possible so it was snug with the dust shield and...as you say undo it to it's first working position.

(I then replaced the nipple so it was ready to receive frequent doses of my lubricant of choice :wink: :) )

HIH

Cheers - Richard
Last edited by ardee_selby on Mon Apr 23, 2012 10:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: Bud English » Mon Apr 23, 2012 10:50 pm

Thanks for that, Alan and Richard.

Yes, I know they're handed. To make sure I got that right, I refurbished one side completely before braking the other side down. This morning I was reassembling the second side and started second guessing how I had assembled the first side. It's twice the work, but safer that way for me.

At my age, it's pictures, notes and lists that keep me on track. ...well, most of the time.
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PostPost by: 512BB » Tue Apr 24, 2012 7:39 am

Panda wrote; and of course use gear oil, not grease, to lubricate threads.

The threads on the uprights and in trunnions act exactly like the helical gears on the crown wheel and pinion in the diff. They both work in a scuffing / sliding motion and are under extreme pressure when they operate. That is why you should use an extreme pressure oil in both, an EP90 oil. That's what the EP stands for.

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PostPost by: rgh0 » Tue Apr 24, 2012 7:47 am

512BB wrote:Panda wrote; and of course use gear oil, not grease, to lubricate threads.

The threads on the uprights and in trunnions act exactly like the helical gears on the crown wheel and pinion in the diff. They both work in a scuffing / sliding motion and are under extreme pressure when they operate. That is why you should use an extreme pressure oil in both, an EP90 oil. That's what the EP stands for.

Leslie


The difference is they operate at extremely low speeds in a water contamination environment compared to a diff - that why I believe you should use an EP water proof grease not and EP oil.

I just cant resist this debate - every time i get sucked in no matter how hard I try :oops:

cheers
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PostPost by: 512BB » Tue Apr 24, 2012 8:03 am

Well, I guess we will have to agree to disagree on this one Rohan.

If the rubber dust shields are in good condition, and not left so long that they go hard, no water ingress occurs. Having owned an Elan for 31 years in May, I have never yet replaced a trunnion, nor had one fail at MOT. For my part, I will stick with EP90.

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PostPost by: ardee_selby » Tue Apr 24, 2012 10:01 am

rgh0 wrote: I just cant resist this debate - every time i get sucked in no matter how hard I try :oops: cheers Rohan


But it was a question on assembly, not lubricant per se. And I chose my words carefully :)

512BB wrote:Well, I guess we will have to agree to disagree on this one Rohan Leslie


I put this in the old "Files Area" a long time ago...to show how Triumph saw the trunnion in action.

trunnion_s.jpg and


I think the debate on what "to use" will run & run. What not "to do" i.e. lack of lubrication (be it oil or grease) seems clear.

Cheers - Richard
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Tue Apr 24, 2012 12:37 pm

512BB wrote:Well, I guess we will have to agree to disagree on this one Rohan.

If the rubber dust shields are in good condition, and not left so long that they go hard, no water ingress occurs. Having owned an Elan for 31 years in May, I have never yet replaced a trunnion, nor had one fail at MOT. For my part, I will stick with EP90.

Leslie


Oil works OK dont disagree with that. The rubber seals keep most of the water out but not all. It is easier to see how much water actually gets in as you can see the water contaminated grease come out first as you pump in new grease.

It is just that an EP water proof grease is the technically correct lubricant for the application these days IMHO. Why Tiumph specified oil originally I dont know but I suspect it relates to the greases available 50 years ago not being as suitable as those available today or may be Triumph just got it wrong which would not be the first time - have a look at a Sptfires rear suspension to understand their level of expertise in suspension components.

but if we all agreed life would be very boring :lol:

cheers
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PostPost by: ardee_selby » Tue Apr 24, 2012 1:02 pm

rgh0 wrote:...if we all agreed life would be very boring :lol: cheers Rohan


I am in total agreement with that. (otoh...maybe I shouldn't be? Oh I dunno :? )

Cheers - Richard :wink:
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PostPost by: Bud English » Tue Apr 24, 2012 2:00 pm

Having read the bulk of the posts debating oil vs. grease, I took a practical approach. Those who know me would probably be amazed at that turn of events.

The debate seams to be more about water ingress than lubricant properties. Where I live and where the car will see the most use receives less than eight inches of rainfall per year. The car will be exposed to more water while being washed than when driven.

I greased them.
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PostPost by: Galwaylotus » Thu Apr 26, 2012 8:56 pm

rgh0 wrote:
512BB wrote:Panda wrote; and of course use gear oil, not grease, to lubricate threads.

The threads on the uprights and in trunnions act exactly like the helical gears on the crown wheel and pinion in the diff. They both work in a scuffing / sliding motion and are under extreme pressure when they operate. That is why you should use an extreme pressure oil in both, an EP90 oil. That's what the EP stands for.

Leslie


The difference is they operate at extremely low speeds in a water contamination environment compared to a diff - that why I believe you should use an EP water proof grease not and EP oil.

I just cant resist this debate - every time i get sucked in no matter how hard I try :oops:

cheers
Rohan

I'm with you, Rohan. Thankfully you jumped in first so I didn't have to respond!! :D
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Mon Apr 30, 2012 10:00 pm

Me too...

I like the liquid grease made by Kluber (Isoflex Topaz I think http://www.klubersolutions.com/pdfs/Iso ... B%2052.pdf)....

Reassuringly very expensive, and like Leslie., I can't ever remember having to change a trunnion. Bushes yes, the actual trunnion? EEerrr ..Can't remember for the life of me but I don't think so. I have two brand new ones to fit to the car sitting on the shelf. I will fit them one of these fine weekends when it's only light lashing rain... HEh ... Still toying with the idea of installing a centralised auto lube system too...

Al' ......
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