A simple wheel protector to reduce knock-on wheel nut mishap

[ardee_selby]

Let's spare a thought for those poor souls with "Super Safety" jobbies!

Cheers - Richard

(http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=futtock )

[mac5777]

Richard, I think that was one of the US requirements so that some one driving down the road did not tear up a car passing by. The regulators had watched too many James Bonds movies. Some of the Cobra steel spinners looked like that, after repeated beating on them

Sarto

[alexblack13]

Oh dear..... This had me in tears of laughter...

Here was me thinking it was part of a Horse.

Brill Pete..

[ardee_selby]

:lol:

Oh dear..... This had me in tears of laughter...

Here was me thinking it was part of a Horse.

Brill Pete..

Alex,

There are alternative definitions (per my link above)...maybe the third is more...ermm...apposite?

Cheers - Richard

[alexblack13]

Without doubt!....

AB

[roadterror]

Have been using a good size pretty solid piece of wood and a mid-to-heavy normal hammer for a number of years. Would rather move the 'hammer zone' away from the wheel area to somewhere safe...

It does leave a small marks on the spinners but copper does more damage....

Cheers,
Brian
Singapore

[rmd24]

I recently bought a Spin-easy wheel spinner tool from Keith Connolly (do a search for Elan spin-easy wheel spinner tool) and a very good bit of kit it is too, and like the Sarto tool avoids all the consequences of hammering.
I have not yet aquired an appropriate torque wrench, mainly because I was quoted over 300? for a clever digital jobby!
I weigh just over 160lbs and it occurs to me that if I put a 15inch bar onto the tool, make sure that it it's parrallel to the ground and stand on the end of it I should be applying about 200 ft lbs of torque. Simples?

Roger.

[bcmc33]

I weigh just over 160lbs and it occurs to me that if I put a 15inch bar onto the tool, make sure that it it's parrallel to the ground and stand on the end of it I should be applying about 200 ft lbs of torque. Simples?

I weigh 200lbs and have a 13" mark on the big torque wrench onto which I stand as I target 220 lbs ft.

I guess it would be interesting to know the level of lubrication people use on the spinner thread to effect adequate clamping force via torque application.

[mac5777]

Hi guys, I have made an arrangement to supply a 25 to 250 ft/lb torque wrench that is reversible, ratcheted and will torque on both sides of the car--most don't--
Be careful when removing the spinners, do not put more pressure on the wrench after it has clicked or you can damage the torque wrench. Dial it up to max when removing the spinners as it takes more force to loosen them.
I can sell it for $75.00 even when it goes off sale and they will drop ship it to the UK for $57.55 and $9.95 anywhere in the US Which is $80.50 GBP. It is under warranty. Or you can buy it direct from them. Our lotus manual shows arrange from 160 to 220 ft/lbs of torque. See my Business Vendor Listing for the Lotus Manual torque pages. I use 190 with no problems coming loose or getting the spinners off. I loosen them up and then re-torque them every so often.
http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/pr ... ctId=10452
You could just use a breaker bar the longer the better and then calculate your weight for the proper torque setting and not have to buy a torque wrench. But a torque wrench that is ratcheted is so easy without having to guess if the spinners are on tight enough and not over tighten.
Sarto

[alexblack13]

I don't use my torque wrench for slackening the spinners. That is how I sheared off the 1/2" Sq drive steel shaft!! God knows how much torque is needed for slackening the buggers off. I bought a 3/4" SQ drive bar about 3 ft long, onto which I slide about another Mtr of steel tube. That does shift the buggers though (and tests your handbrake!).

MHO only here but I think. 160 - 180 Ft/Lb's is enough..

Brian. I just have a small smear of copperslip applied to the cleaned threads. No issues at all. Wheels checked carefully after every run so far with no sign at all of slackening.

BUT... Please everybody do what YOU think is correct, and get out there and drive the shittocks out of it..

AB...

[bcmc33]

Brian. I just have a small smear of copperslip applied to the cleaned threads. No issues at all. Wheels checked carefully after every run so far with no sign at all of slackening.

BUT... get out there and drive the shittocks out of it..

I use a smear of copperslip also, Alex - I also put a smear on the wheel contact area as all contact areas need lubrication for the torque application to work properly.

And you only drive the shittocks out of it - I was of the opinion that you're a brave man and always drove the futtocks out of it.

[ardee_selby]

God knows how much torque is needed for slackening the buggers off. AB...

In this scenario, given the apparent very high torque value, would the epicyclic loosening effect under braking * be significant?

(* or is it loosening effect under acceleration, and tightening effect under braking? I dunno...my brain hurts! ...Nurse the screens )

Cheers - Richard

[bcmc33]

In this scenario, given the apparent very high torque value, would the epicyclic loosening effect under braking * be significant?

(* or is it loosening effect under acceleration, and tightening effect under braking? I dunno...my brain hurts! ...Nurse the screens )

Cheers - Richard

That was the ACBC theory. However, the acceleration and braking reaction loads should be taken by the 5 close fitting locations pins.
I've often wondered if the pins were a late design decision.

[ardee_selby]

That was the ACBC theory. However, the acceleration and braking reaction loads should be taken by the 5 close fitting locations pins. I've often wondered if the pins were a late design decision.

Brian,

Thanks...had confused myself by recalling the discussions on here some while back (with dire warnings of impending doom etc).

Of course, the ACBC theory (IIRC now) related to "Centre Locking" wheels, not "Knock-on" wheels.

(However, highlights importance of "close fitting" pins to stop potential radial movement & any subsequent loosening effect)

Thanks again Cheers - Richard

[mac5777]

Now I'm confused, I thought that the two eared splined hubs must be greased but on our Lotus spinners, we were advised not to lubricate them as they may unscrew more easily. But maybe the copper stuff is OK? Over tightening them is the real problem.
My experience with the Cobra world is they have had the most problem with removing the spinners--way over tighten-- The spinners and the wheel material has a tendency to weld its self together if they don't use something. A local Cobra shop broke off one of the ears using a hammer. They used my tool which applies equal force to all three ears rather than just beating on one ear at a time which distorts their spinner making it harder to remove. They used 1,200 ft/lbs of torque to break them loose. I'm happy to say, with no damage to my tool. I had only tested them to 400 ft/lbs of torque.
I have been told from the Jaguar guys to hand tighten the spinners and just drive them and they will self tighten. They better not have to use their brakes before the wheels are fully tighten.

Sarto