Lotus Elan

Replacing right rear hub key?

PostPost by: lotusroads » Tue Aug 24, 2010 3:21 pm

garyeanderson wrote:Greg found another used shaft someplace local and I sent him the spare RH Hub Friday that I had so that he can get his Plus2 back up and running. The hub ought to be there today or tomorrow so he should have what he needs except for the key and nut and those don't sound like they will be show stoppers.

Gary


Gary,
Hub arrived yesterday and the axle showed up on Saturday. I jacked up the rear and have looked into the job of removing the old axle and, yes, it looks like a "strut off" job. I found some steel to make the key and the nut is available as well.

Looking ahead, the rotoflex donuts look tricky to get back on. Is this a two man job or is there step by step process to getting them back on? The manual was pretty brief, just mentioning to jack up the strut while lining up the middle axle to the outer donut. With the way those donuts bend it just doesn't look that simple.
Thanks,
Greg
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Tue Aug 24, 2010 3:38 pm

Hi Greg

there are hundreds of topics here (maybe thousands :) ) dealing with Rotoflex replacement. I don't want to go there again please search on "rotoflex replacement". Here is one I found that goes on for 2 pages:
elan-archive-f16/rubber-donuts-t4071.html

see if that helps. if not ask again.

Gary

p.s. - Glad the Post Office delivered, coast to coast in 3 days is good time...
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Tue Aug 24, 2010 4:54 pm

lotusroads wrote:Looking ahead, the rotoflex donuts look tricky to get back on.


Gary is correct that this topic has been covered. However there are two important things to consider. You will need spring compressors in order to remove the strut safely. With the spring compressed it will be much easier to get the strut into a position where the rotoflex joints have minimal to no deflection. You with also need to compress the circumference of the rotoflex joints with band clamps in order to get the bolts out without difficulty. New rotoflex joints are shipped with a band clamp in place to squeeze the inserts through which the bolts pass to the correct bolt circle diameter. Without this band clamp in place the rotoflex joint expands to a significantly larger diameter making assembly or removal very difficult.
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Wed Aug 25, 2010 5:38 pm

Image

The above picture is out of the LEFWSM, it can be found at
http://www.duartevelezgrilo.eu/lotuselan/
Click on
Section G Hub Wheel
to download the section.

The green "Right Hand" HUBS (looking FORWARDS from the back of the car) are "right hand" thread and the red "Left Hand" HUBS are "left hand" thread (again Looking forward from the back of the Elan). Left hand threads are reverse from normal. Remember Righty tighty, lefty loosey, except for the left side hubs.

Green right side hub from a plus2, threads are clearly visible.
Image
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Wed Aug 25, 2010 5:57 pm

CBUEB1771 wrote:
lotusroads wrote:Looking ahead, the rotoflex donuts look tricky to get back on.


Gary is correct that this topic has been covered. However there are two important things to consider. You will need spring compressors in order to remove the strut safely. With the spring compressed it will be much easier to get the strut into a position where the rotoflex joints have minimal to no deflection. You with also need to compress the circumference of the rotoflex joints with band clamps in order to get the bolts out without difficulty. New rotoflex joints are shipped with a band clamp in place to squeeze the inserts through which the bolts pass to the correct bolt circle diameter. Without this band clamp in place the rotoflex joint expands to a significantly larger diameter making assembly or removal very difficult.


In old fashioned English translate that into "a or more Jubilee Clips"(Hose clamps/Clips) joined together around the Rotoflex couplings in order to compress them as much as possible.
Use some washing up fluid to ensure that the "Jubilee Clips" can move around the Rotoflexes whilst being tightened.
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Wed Aug 25, 2010 7:00 pm

D.J.Pelly wrote:"Jubilee Clips"

Well stated, Mr. Pelly. When I think of "Jubilee Clips" I imagine news film segments from some significant anniversary of the start of Her Royal Majesty's reign.
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PostPost by: lotusroads » Wed Aug 25, 2010 8:44 pm

The "jubilee" clips worked perfectly. I still needed a hand as my neighbor helped by tapping the back of the bolt while I lined it up from below. Only one problem, one of the bolts snapped while torquing. A bit frustrating I might add. So, today I'm going to replace them all with new bolts and go to the lower end of the torque setting from the manual (35 - 40lbs). I set my wrench at 37lbs when the bolt went, so today it will be 35.
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Wed Aug 25, 2010 9:19 pm

lotusroads wrote:So, today I'm going to replace them all with new bolts and go to the lower end of the torque setting from the manual (35 - 40lbs).


Make sure you have the correct bolts from a Lotus-cognizant source. The proper bolts have a long unthreaded shank. The section of the bolt at the interface between the rotoflex joint and the inner or outer drive shafts should not be threaded. You want the full, unthreaded diameter of the bolt to see the shear loads imparted by the drive.
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PostPost by: lotusroads » Wed Aug 25, 2010 10:01 pm

New bolts for rotoflex donut are the same dimensions as previous bolts and are of hardened steel, so they should be okay.
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Thu Aug 26, 2010 7:28 am

CBUEB1771 wrote:
D.J.Pelly wrote:"Jubilee Clips"

Well stated, Mr. Pelly. When I think of "Jubilee Clips" I imagine news film segments from some significant anniversary of the start of Her Royal Majesty's reign.


Slightly disappointing to note that you've dropped the "Sir", Russ.
Next time we meet I'll let Her Majesty know that you sometimes think of her.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Thu Aug 26, 2010 1:15 pm

D.J.Pelly wrote:Slightly disappointing to note that you've dropped the "Sir", Russ.
Next time we meet I'll let Her Majesty know that you sometimes think of her.


Sir Pelly, I did not mean to offend. I was silent on your title only in deference to HRH. How is your royal wave coming along? :wink:
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Thu Aug 26, 2010 3:30 pm

CBUEB1771 wrote:
D.J.Pelly wrote:Slightly disappointing to note that you've dropped the "Sir", Russ.
Next time we meet I'll let Her Majesty know that you sometimes think of her.


Sir Pelly, I did not mean to offend. I was silent on your title only in deference to HRH. How is your royal wave coming along? :wink:


Getting the hang of the "Royal Wave" but am struggling with the "Mexican Wave" on my own :lol:
Errm, just John will do me fine Russ :)
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PostPost by: lotusroads » Fri Aug 27, 2010 3:22 pm

The hub and all its parts are on and the car is functioning as it should.

Many thanks to everyone who contributed their astute, learned and descriptive advice on the issue of hubs, axles and rotoflex donuts. All the messages added up to a real treatise on the subject that not only helped me to undertake a safe and functional repair, but is assured to help others in the future.

Until next time.

My Regards,

Greg
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sat Aug 28, 2010 12:58 pm

Greg

Don't forget the torquing sequence......I found it helped if you have a spare/scrap spinner (or pair) and had the centres bored out (a la 26) and went for a drive with the torque wrench in the boot,stopping periodically to re-torque..lots easier..

John :wink:
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PostPost by: davea » Mon Aug 30, 2010 2:31 pm

One thing not specificially said here: the key should not be a tight fit nor should it
be allowed to get to the inner part of the keyway (the key should be kept
at the outer end). If tight-fit or slipped-in-too-far applies the key will
distort the hub and prevent the taper surfaces from touching near the key.
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