Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

Hi All,
Home early to day and tried a 'set up' on the spare modified A frame I have. I have found that the turnbuckle ass'y has gon SOLID and will not turn. It only moved around 1/4 turn and the threads then felt to be 'picking up' Good coating of copperslip before welding did not help.

So .... back to the drawing board. I am going to test the other one in some tube I have and see if the same happens. I suspect it will.

Keep you posted.. Any pro welders out there have any ideas as to why? I would be interested to know.

Alex....

Bugger!!!

Alex, not sure how you jigged the components before welding, but the threaded sockets could be slightly out of alignment as a result of distortion from the welding. Did you tack first and check the turnbuckle thread for freedom before progressively welding them up.?
Regards
Gerry

Note, one way of tacking the sockets might be to drill say 8mm hole in tube, and then "spot weld" through the hole and into socket.

Show us a sketch of your fit-up.

Regards

Gerry

Must admit I did not test the turning of the 'buckle' until to day Gerry I did tack it up then welded the lot up. Looks nice in line. I think the heat has worked the steel somehow. As I say I felt it pick up as I moved it about a 1/4 turn. Quite free at 1st. Just gradually reduced in movement getting tighter as is reduced in movement.

Bugger... It is feckin solid...

Ah Well.. Back to the drawing board me thinks..

PS.. Up to see a client tomorrow PM. GM Timber systems just west of Banchory. Might have time for a drop in. If you are around...


Alex...

Perhaps Brazing could be a solution?
Or reduced thread length?

Cheers
John

Edited to add:- Or reduced Thread length or reduced Thread engagement

Alex, is it possible that it's solid because the the adjuster has nothing to adjust, as I alluded to in the other post about this?
elan-f15/adjustable-rear-control-arm-t19474.html

In other words, the tube can not get longer or shorter because it's fixed on either end. Although I could be blowing smoke because there are a fair amount of arms out there with this type of adjustment and claims to move the arm just enough to adjust toe.

Anyway, keep us posted, with pics.
Thanks,

Greg Z

Greg

Don't think so,I've been able to move my arms 1/4" either way (total 1/2") with no undue pressure....which should be more than enough to align....

John

Fair enough John, I'll concede that argument then

Back to the drawing board, Alex! All I can think of is a misalignment between the inserts, as Gerry indicated.

Greg Z

I think John might have it....thread length....along with misalignment?

John

I just cut out the tube with the 'adjuster in. Still won't move. I am sure the threads have picked up. Question is why? Mk2 is going to be. (In the one I just cut the tube out of)...

Fit new tube adaptor into one cut endof A frame and weld. THEN RETAP adaptor. Fit another (oppo' hand) adaptor into a new pc of tube (same dia / spec' as A frame), weld and RETAP. lay new pipe with adaptor and new turnbuckle alongside/into cut out in A frame to get the length required for this new pc of pipe. Assemble turnbuckle and center in both adaptors. Butt new pipe to A frame pipe and weld in. I intend to re-enforce the joint in the pipe by slipping a pc of oversized pipe. ID same as A frame OD Center over joint and weld both ends.

I think the welding overheated the turnbuckle & perhaps damaged the threads?? Don't know. I'm a bit stumped!

I will keep at it though..

AB...


BIG THANKS TO GEOFF ..Sent me 4 old A frames to 'practice' on.. TOP MAN....

Alex,
Could it be the Copperslip that's the culprit ? I see from their data sheet that the stuff works up to 1100 deg C but they don't say what happens beyond that. You must have exceeded that temp with the welding and perhaps the grease component burnt off and the copper content "glued" up the threads ??? Just a thought.
Regards,

Alex, if it's any consolation I had a pickup on one of my professionally manufactured adjustable A frames (from Kelvedon). I Always put it down to a minute amount of corrosion (before I worked in lube, copperslip and then Denso tape to keep out the water). Now I'm not so sure. Maybe same problem you have. Anyway I will need to repair at some stage.

Regards

Gerry

Hi All, Gerry,
Yep! Def' a pick up. No amount of persuasion will shift it. So.. ? back to drawing board I think. I don't want to try this on a decent set of A frames untill I have it fixed. I think cutting out the tube and fitting the assy including retaping the inserts,prior to refitting the cut out tube. Pref' with re-enforcing over the tube welds.

Still Thinking.

Alex B....

Alex

" I intend to re-enforce the joint in the pipe by slipping a pc of oversized pipe. ID same as A frame OD Center over joint and weld both ends."

...doesn't that defeat the object?

John

No.. Just over the joints either side of the turnbuckle etc. IN short ..Cut out pipe fit parts.. retap etc and refit pipe. Butt welds.. smoothed off. Re-enforce with pipe over the joint, weld both ends... Well clear off the turnbuckle.

I think I am going to have to 'back burner' this whilst I fit my new diff etc..

Keep you posted.

Alex

Isn't the "correct" way to do it to remove the entire leg then cut, fit the threaded bosses, re-tap, reassemble?

As the joints at each end of the leg are brazed is there a way of disassembling them?

Paddy