Lotus Elan

Spring rate and bump setup

PostPost by: Fraggle » Tue Jul 28, 2009 12:55 am

Hi all.
I am currently rebuiling a 1968 +2 and have opted for adjustable front and rear shocks. The front Shockies also have an adjustable spring on them. Both sets made by Gaz.
Has anyone ever played around with these, and if so, whats a good setup for optimum handling?
Any help would be much appreciated.

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Jason
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PostPost by: Foxie » Tue Jul 28, 2009 6:21 pm

Fraggle wrote:Hi all.
I am currently rebuiling a 1968 +2 and have opted for adjustable front and rear shocks. The front Shockies also have an adjustable spring on them. Has anyone ever played around with these, and if so, whats a good setup for optimum handling?
Jason

Do you mean adjustable spring PLATFORMS ? useful for setting ride height
Have you Lotus or Spyder rear suspension ?
I have 125 fronts and 100 rears, 25% up on originals, steadier but still very comfortable .
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PostPost by: Fraggle » Wed Jul 29, 2009 12:35 am

Thanks for the feedback Sean.
I kept the original rear end. The only mods being adjustable shockies and a CV conversion. (I've read that the original donuts gave an irritating wind up in the back end.)
So increasing the ride height gave it more stability? I would have thought decreasing ride height would give it more stability.

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Jason
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PostPost by: jimj » Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:41 am

If it`s the shock absorbers, dampers, that are adjustable, they can be adjusted with a screwdriver to firm up the damping, or reduce the firmness. Personal taste dictates a compromise between handling and ride quality.
Jim
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PostPost by: Foxie » Wed Jul 29, 2009 9:57 am

Fraggle wrote:I kept the original rear end. The only mods being adjustable shockies and a CV conversion. (I've read that the original donuts gave an irritating wind up in the back end.)
So increasing the ride height gave it more stability? I would have thought decreasing ride height would give it more stability.
Jason

If you have the Lotus rear struts, I think the shocks may have to be removed to adjust them, so I'd set them 3/4 hard when fitting, and hope you find that setting ok .

You're dead right about the wind-up. I changed to the Spyder (one CV +one HD donut per side) many years ago, they're great :D

Sorry I didn't make it clear about ride height, you are right about keeping it low. Ideally the lower wishbones should be horizontal when the car is loaded for the road (driver, passenger, luggage etc.) or you may like it lower still.

I race/hillclimb mine, but also tour with toolbox, spare, water, luggage, a wife, :mrgreen: so the option of setting ride height to suit is useful. Also, spring lengths can vary.
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PostPost by: Fraggle » Thu Jul 30, 2009 9:39 am

These gaz shocks insert straight inside the old struts. There is an adjustment nut on the top of the strut so it can be adjusted in place via access through the rear parcel shelf. I will probably cut 2 holes in the parcel shelf and plug them with rubber grommets so I can adjust them at any stage. Will be handy for track work! :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: Foxie » Thu Jul 30, 2009 11:51 am

Fraggle wrote:These gaz shocks insert straight inside the old struts. There is an adjustment nut on the top of the strut so it can be adjusted in place via access through the rear parcel shelf. I will probably cut 2 holes in the parcel shelf and plug them with rubber grommets so I can adjust them at any stage. Will be handy for track work! :mrgreen:


That sounds good. But the holes and grommets should be there already, for access to the strut /Lotocone nuts :D
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PostPost by: Fraggle » Fri Jul 31, 2009 1:26 am

Haha. i meen putting 2 holes and grommets on the parcel shelf itself so I dont have to remove it every time I want to change the stiffness.
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PostPost by: Foxie » Fri Jul 31, 2009 2:06 am

I understand, sounds like more work than it's worth :D
Take the parcel shelf off, test different settings, keep the optimum. Then you shouldn't have to change it for a long time :mrgreen:
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PostPost by: Fraggle » Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:04 am

It will be a bit more work initially. But it will be good to be able to change the settings with just a flick of a knob. I probably wont want to drive around on the roads with the stiffness set up for track work.
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