RotoFlexible wrote:I found a useful discussion of the pros and cons of poly bushings in this topic:
http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=729. To summarize, it appears that poly bushings are less tolerant of imperfect alignment (i.e., they can bind if for some reason the bushing bores are not perfectly concentric around a single axis) and the length of the crush tube is critical. Too short, and the bushings will be captured by the washers that retain them and bind. The solution is to omit the washers and/or slacken the Nylocs - but I recommend reading the whole thread, it's interesting. All things considered, I will probably pull my NOS rubber bushings (for the front) out of storage and fit them instead, assuming they haven't deteriorated while on the shelf. I may get poly bushings for the rear, though.
Andrew, I would not do the bit about "not fitting" the washers and slackening the nylocs. I am no expert but it sounds dangerous. I fitted these to an S4. I had some problems and there is more discusion (couple of years ago) on here.
With no washers you could migrate the front bones off the bushes. They are required. I found some of the bores of the bones too tight, thats why the crush tubes dont line up with the poly'. The poly swells outwards since it has no were to go. The nylocs must be tight against the washers/crush tubes. The poly is meant to move on the crush tube. Build your bones up without any shocker in and dog it all up. You should be able to work the suspension up and down on the tight assembley. If not, you have work to do. Find out what is causing it, top or btm bones and sort it out. Yes, they are less tolerent of out of shape bones with concetric misalignment with the bone tubes. I had some rubber bushes migrate to the washers and stop (thats why they are there). I found by accurate measurement the bones were all shapes. They were new. I sent them back from were they came with 8 pages of drawings showing how out of shape they were.
The new ones had to have slight reaming of the bones tubes but are fine. I have poly all aound. I make sure that with everything dogged up without any shockers they move freely.
There is more on the rear A frames and Poly' by by me on here. Again the A frames I got (new) were not the same dimensions as Lotus. Lots of filing later and they fit. They were Spyder. Very strong, lots of weld but all the bone tubes are longer. It matters not with rubber bushes as the are very forgiving. With poly all must be straight and the right sizes.
In my opinion TTR kit is best, very accurate and welds are perfection. I spent about 8 hours filing and lots of measuring to get poly' on the rear A frames when I removed my old Lotus ones that fitted with the poly.
Please have a search and read. Lot of arsing about over Xmas last year. I think I am no longer bothered about mentioning Spyder. Some good kit, some bad. Thats what the forum is for IMO, helping each other. Feedback helps them with their quality control. Tony may have some good turns of phrase etc, etc but his kit is very good.
Mike