axle stands under the +2S, where?

[thor]

I'm jacking up the +2S to do a service and rotate the wheels(maybe change tyres..), and need it up on 4 axle stands.
The last advice I got was to make up a wooden jig so as to be able to place the jack centrally under the spaceframe, with one wooden block supporting each side of the frame, i front of the diff.

What if I use the standard rear jacking point on the left, put one axle stand under the left rail of the spaceframe in front of the diff, then do the same on the right side of the car, followed by jacking the front under the vacuum reservoir/central tube as prescribed..

Is this ok, or will it make the frame flex on the back?

Want to jack the car, have no wood or jig making time.....!

(My first post in third gear, NICE!)

[blueseamonkey]

Hi Thor,
If your jacking points and chassis are in good shape, the method you suggest does support the car ok from a weight point of view, but its not very stable (i.e. the chassis is so close to the centre at the rear, the back end can rock quite a bit!)
I did the same for mine while replacing the diff, but I used a pile of bricks under each jacking point just for added stability (a trolley jack, or another set of axle stands would be better, but like you I didn't have anything else to hand)
But... I had the standard chassis, not the spaceframe - don't know if that makes any difference.
Rick

[thor]

hm... still uncertain now, any more good advice here not involving carpentry.... ?

[1964 S1]

I recommend at least some minor carpentry.....
Rear stands under the outer spindles with wooden shims for stability yet clear of the wheels and tires. Front stands under outer ends of the vacuum tank where the suspension arms bolt on, wooden shims again. The shims help keep the load stable. The shape of your wood shims is determined by the shape of the yoke on the tops of the jackstands. This topic has been previously discussed, lots of info in the archives.

[Robbie693]

When I had some work done on my old car at Paul Matty's they used the Flat sections on the body just inside of the sills to jack up the car (with a flat peice of wood to spread the load). I had never used this point before then for jacking but afterwards used it for placing axle stands with wood in between for support.

It gave me a few worries at first, expecting loud creaks and eventual cracking of the glassfibre but that never happened. I assume these points are re-inforced for this purpose...

[thor]

really !? I've always been told NEVER NEVER to jack or support the body, ONLY to use the frame.... This sounds like a better way IF it's safe, which it surely is if PM is doing it..

[rgh0]

I always try to jack on the chassis using a wooden plate to spread the load. i use a trolley jack and do it under the front cross member and under the point where the chassis forks at the rear under one of the chassis rails. I only ever use the plus 2 jacking points if I have to change a flat tyre - done that once in 26 years.

Once jacked up I then support the car using jack stands and wooden pieces to spread the load with the front stands at the outer end of the chassis cross member and the rear stands at the flat sections of the outside corners of the body just in front of the rear wheels.


Never had any problems support off the fibreglass at these points and good stability with 4 support points well apart.

Rohan

[thor]

EXcellent advice, thanks a lot, I'm at peace now........

More worried about the silly thing I did today, sent a pattern to a small workshop ordering a polished stainless front and back plate to fit the lovely PYE radio I've got into the hole... WITHOUT asking for a price.

[1964 S1]

And while we're on the jacking subject again, DO NOT support any Elan by the lower rear suspension arms no matter how tempting... they can be bent quite easily, leading to wheel alignment problems.

[elanman3]

Prior to replacing the inner sills on my car I jacked on the 'A' frame suspension arms all the time without any distortion. I did use a length of 3"x2" timber to spread the load across the whole of the of the suspension arm and kept the jack as close to the wheel hub as possible. I've also had both sides up on axle stands using 3"x2" timber under the suspension arms. If you have the new Spyder 'A' frame suspension arms, they're an oval shape; and stronger still.
I've also on one occasion had to put the axle stand under the corner of the body when I was replacing the rear dampers. I did the same as what Paul Matty did (mentioned above) I put a large piece of thick plywood across the underside of the car and didn't hear creaks etc.
If you take precautions to spread the load I don't think you'll have any problems using either method.

Colin

[thor]

Very interesting ... .. . I might try this now then

[CaveatLector]

I usually just levitate mine. But that can get quite tiresome if the work takes more than an hour.

[1964 S1]

Thank You Colin, I may change my ways. I've thought perhaps with timber across the A arms it may be safe. Maybe a crescent notch for the brake rotor... Lotus are truly a trick in some ways. Eric

[ianf]

Common practice is not always the best. However shortly after buying my Elan I had the bushes and rear wheel bearings changed by a chap who served his apprenticeship at a local Lotus dealer in the late 60's. I was alarmed when he lifted the car on a standard four point lift (under the end of the sills with pads) - that was how the factory taught him to do it - apparently.

Ian

PS I use the chassis where possible but don't worry too much when using the ends of the sills - the jack which came with the car used the sill after all.





the ends of the sills v

[Jason1]

Thor

More worried about the silly thing I did today, sent a pattern to a small workshop ordering a polished stainless front and back plate to fit the lovely PYE radio I've got into the hole... WITHOUT asking for a price.

I have posted a couple of PDF files of the front and back radio plate measurements I was given to mount my radio on the gallery.

I made mine from a ?5 sheet of ally from B+Q, it is much easier to cut.

I have posted the Pye and the Radiomobile plates, I fitted the Radiomobile unit and if I do say so it looks pretty good.

Hope this helps

Jason