Qucik question, loose steering wheel nut...

PostPost by: thor » Sun Apr 23, 2006 6:22 pm

What lb torque on the steering wheel nut? Cannot find it in the manual..

I've had a semi loose one for<ages, and now have a re-covered original one to put on, and finally a borrowed 27mm socket for the torque wrench......:-)

NO more work tonight though after a LONG day helping a mate with the re-hoist of assembled engine and gearbox in his Swallow Doretti..
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PostPost by: Hamish Coutts » Sun Apr 23, 2006 10:50 pm

Thor,

The torque is 'tight'. Until there is no play in the splines. :)


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PostPost by: 1964 S1 » Mon Apr 24, 2006 4:30 am

I agree with Hamish and will quickly add this one is nothing to fiddle with, I hope none of us have a fault here. Thor, why has your wheel been loose for ages? Check the splines on the column and wheel, if either appear rounded, beware. A tight nut does not always mean a tight or safe wheel... if the splines slip or strip, massive understeer immediately follows.
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PostPost by: Hamish Coutts » Mon Apr 24, 2006 8:15 am

Thor,

I bought a new motolita leather rim a cople of years back. Beautiful piece of kit.
However, when the boss is placed on the steering column it could be described as a 'rattle fit' i.e. there is a wee bit of play, not much but a wee bit.

When I pull up the centre nut there is still a tiny bit of play. Pull it up a little more and the play disappears and everything is tight. No idea what the torque is but I used a ? inch square drive rachet.

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PostPost by: thor » Mon Apr 24, 2006 10:33 am

And how to make the horns function again is next, with my neglible knowledge about electrics... :?
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PostPost by: M100 » Mon Apr 24, 2006 11:35 am

20 lb.ft or thereabouts is the max I'd tighten the column nut to.

The wheel should be a good fit on the splines, the fit should be such that you should be able to drive with no nut on the column, if tightening the nut removes slack something is wrong. If there is any play then I would suggest you buy a new column or hub - except I think the columns are no longer available so a good secondhand one might be the only way for now.
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PostPost by: thor » Mon Apr 24, 2006 12:04 pm

excellent. No there's no play, I just thought this would be a good place to start with my new "everything correctly torqued"-policy..-
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PostPost by: steveww » Tue Apr 25, 2006 11:29 am

thor wrote:And how to make the horns function again is next, with my neglible knowledge about electrics... :?


Check that the cable "jumpers" are in place over the steering UJ and from the steering rack to the chasis. With out these there is not any path to ground for the horn to complete the circuit.
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