Replacing The Rear Struts

PostPost by: SADLOTUS » Wed Jan 19, 2005 8:29 pm

Hi all
Has anyone replaced the rear strut housing on their Elan? ie. removed the steel shock casing from the aluminium bearing housing. I've seen articles on replacing the shock absorber casing by freezing the steel and heating the ali, into the press and squeeze gently, but what I would like advice on is the removal of the old strut casing before I get that far.
Thanks
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PostPost by: Foxie » Wed Jan 19, 2005 10:31 pm

I've done this, after breaking off the complete caliper mount when a spyder bolt sheared on a redline start.

Unfortunately this meant a hacksaw and chisel job on the old casting.

The new casting and tube were assembled easily with a combination of cold and heat, but you have to work quickly. Put a jubilee clip on the tube when tapping it in to prevent it going too far.

Sean Murray
68 Elan +2, 70 Elan +2s
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PostPost by: Rob_LaMoreaux » Thu Jan 20, 2005 12:23 pm

Most replacement struts are just inserts that go into the old tube, so if the problem is just that the strut no longer works right then you do not have to remove the tube.

Rob
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PostPost by: steveww » Thu Jan 20, 2005 4:01 pm

Tony Thompson stocks all these bits including new hub castings
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PostPost by: SADLOTUS » Thu Jan 20, 2005 7:23 pm

Thanks for taking time to add a reply,

I'd like to convert to 2 1/4 inch springs, I have the Tony Thompson inserts and outer tubes with adjustable spring platforms, the problem is the old outer tubes are bent and need replacing, so need to come out. I wondered if the tube and ally were an interference fit and if I heated the ally carefully it might expand quicker and be easier to separate the two. Does anyone know if the hexagonal nut looking thing on the bottom of the strut is a nut or a bolt or can be used to turn the tube to help break the two apart.
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PostPost by: SADLOTUS » Thu Jan 20, 2005 7:26 pm

OR.....


It might be a case of using <span style='color:red'>THE SEAN METHOD</span> in post two
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PostPost by: nebogipfel » Thu Jan 20, 2005 7:35 pm

You could go for the Spyder fabricated replacements
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PostPost by: lotusanglia1965 » Thu Jan 20, 2005 10:38 pm

....which also use the large inner bearing on the outer as well as no more circlip groove problems. and no i'm not employed by andy at spyder, but i did buy their gear for my plus2.
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PostPost by: steveww » Fri Jan 21, 2005 10:44 am

You might be able to separate the two but I think you would need a press to do it. I would put the ally bit in boiling water then see if it would press out. Not too sure of success though :( Have a word with the guys at TTR, I have always found them very helpful, they should be able to say if it is possible or not.

There was a pair of rear struts on eBay a while back. You could also try Spyder engineering has they usually have a good stock of s/h bits.
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PostPost by: pereirac » Sat Jan 22, 2005 11:04 pm

The Lotus workshop manual has a habit of 'understating' the job. 'Knock out the old bearing' means strip the whole unit down and use a 7 ton hydraulic press to push them out!!
I would guess that removing the strut housing is equallly 'understated'.
Carl

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PostPost by: Hamish Coutts » Sun Jan 23, 2005 9:03 pm

Can't agree more with nebogipfel. My +2 rear bearing seats were knackered and I replaced them with Spyder fabricated struts. Excellent quality and really easy to do. Car now handles like it should.
I believe Lotuses should be as original as possible. However, the Spyder replacement struts are far better and are also height adjustable and with the circlip problems fixed, I can now drive the car with confidence - like Chapman intended. What a car!

Hamish.

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