Hopping Rear

[alan.barker]

For the price of the Bearings i would renew both. Do the job once and do it 100%.
Also while the driveshaft is removed and bare get it put in a Lathe Chuck and resurface Lugs where the Brake Disk locates. Make sure you buy good quality Bearings
Alan

[h20hamelan]

If you can find a 2 leg gear puller that fits you may be able to do it without removing the strut. There are also ball joint removal tools that use a screw and a C shaped frame.

How much better is the puller, than a press. As far as a press adds the force the entire face, not a puller.

[snowyelan]

A press is better no doubt. My suggestions were for removing the bolt while still on the upright.

[h20hamelan]

Of course, no offence intended. I just wonder if its worth it. I have a couple different styles. One could/should encompass the face of the upright, so that would be my choice, but, I wonder if anyone has destroyed their upright.

[Temmck]

I can not remove the stubaxle as the brake disc is still attached via the bolt that won't come out. I would have to cut off the disc then remove the axle.

I found removing these bolts with a press to be ineffective. When I did the other side I also had one bolt stuck on the spider but it was on the drive shaft. I removed the drive shaft and tried to push out the bolt but my 20T press maxed out and the bolt didn't budge. I was able to get the bolt out with heat and serious banging with a steel hammer (spider ear properly braced).

I will try to get it hotter with an oxy/map torch today. If that doesn't work then I cut off the bolt and try to drill it out. Removing the axle is my last resort.

All this for one rotten bolt that is rusted to the spider. This assembly has a lot of anti-seize in its future.

[alan.barker]

I think once you have removed the Brake Caliper you can remove stub axle with the Brake Disk attached.
Then if a press doesn't work you can use a pillar drill to drill out bolt.
Alan

[Temmck]

The Oxy/Map torch did the trick! I was able to work the bolt loose and finally remove it from the spider.

With the bolt removed the replacement of the rotoflex went smoothly. What works best for me is to face all of the bolt heads outwards and use a washer under the nuts that are against the rotoflex.

A quick test drive and the hopping is gone! The car ran nice and smooth. The root cause was permanently deformed rotoflex couplings due to sitting in the same place for many years.

Thank you everyone for your ideas and suggestions.

[alan.barker]

Imho i suggest you fit the bolts as in workshop manuel. Also i wouldn't fit any washers under the nyloc nuts or bolt heads.
Have you checked the Brake Disk to see if it's running true with a DTI.
Personal choice of course and enjoy driving your Elan.
Alan