Tightening a Knock Off Spinner/Wheel?

PostPost by: Classic-BSC » Mon May 28, 2018 1:56 pm

What is the correct method of Tightening a Spinner?

Everybody I've spoken too, say you Hammer the Spinner until it doesn't move anymore!

Excuse the Pun, but that sounds a bit Hit or Miss.
Is there any way to Torque a Spinner, and if so, How, and by how much should it be Torqued?

On my way up to Castle Combe this weekend, my rear Wheel came lose.
Stopped, jacked the Car up, tightened up the Spinner by Hand, then hammered the Spinner
a bit, let the Car down and Hammered the Spinner again until Tight.
Next Day on the way to the Meet, the Wheel came lose again!

When is Tight, Tight enough?


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PostPost by: JonB » Mon May 28, 2018 2:14 pm

First off, ensure there is no grease on the thread (spinner or hub). It needs to be dry.

Then you have to whack the spinner nice and hard. Mine have never come loose.
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PostPost by: Classic-BSC » Mon May 28, 2018 2:24 pm

Hi Jon,

That's interesting, as mine had/Have Copper Slip on them by the looks of it.

Although, to be fair, the wheels never came loose before I put them back on!

Biggest problem I find, is not bashing the Wheel with the Hammer!
When I say biggest, obviously the Wheel coming loose was a bigger issue.

At least it was an easy fix on the side of the Road. For a while, I thought the Old Girl wasn't
going to make it. Thinking all sorts of Expensive things with the Suspension had gone wrong.

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PostPost by: 1owner69Elan » Mon May 28, 2018 2:27 pm

This has been discussed before but the best way is with Sarto?s (a forum member) tool and a torque wrench.

http://knockoffspinnertool.com/

I have used the regular and Cobra-type versions of the tool successfully with regular and 26r spinners.
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Mon May 28, 2018 2:28 pm

Brian Buckland says 160-180 lbs/ft.
In order to do this of course you need to buy or make a spinner adaptor for your torque wrench. I made one.
And possibly a bigger torque wrench than usual.
A secondary advantage is that you do not hit the wheel with the hammer.
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon May 28, 2018 2:35 pm

I have the Lotus 10 spoke alloys and I find that if you turn the wheel once the spinner ear you are whacking starts getting close to a spoke, you can find another ear that is less risky to hit.
Last edited by JonB on Mon May 28, 2018 2:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon May 28, 2018 2:43 pm

Put another way:

490242a1-c5f2-4af3-a9dd-a49ead004211.jpeg and
Whack here!


8c1744f7-f5bf-47d0-bbd3-1f845db36e62.jpeg and
Don?t whack here!


I try to strike the ear at a slight angle so as to further reduce the risk of hitting the wheel.

About spinner adapters: I agree they?re better, more accurate etc but they are a bit expensive and besides, I like whacking my spinners. Don?t ask me why, just seems more satisfying I guess. One day I will get a new set of spinners, then I will use an adapter; but for now it?s ?Pass the lump hammer, dear!?

:D
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PostPost by: baileyman » Mon May 28, 2018 3:16 pm

While the threads should be dry, shouldn't the cone shaped bearing surface be greased?

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PostPost by: JonB » Mon May 28, 2018 4:28 pm

Probably, but I don't bother (if you are referring to the bit around the edge of the spinner).
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PostPost by: Bud English » Mon May 28, 2018 6:01 pm

There are other options out there for spinner tools in various prices, fits and finishes. Look in Tool Talk.

tool-talk-f43/spinner-tool-t30392-15.html#p207980

tool-talk-f43/spinner-tool-for-less-than-tenner-t30715.html#p205422
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon May 28, 2018 6:18 pm

Hmm I fancy making one...
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PostPost by: RichardHawkins » Mon May 28, 2018 7:05 pm

I bought that spinner tool from Lionel, and I don't know how he makes them so cheaply.

Years ago (probably ten or more) at one of the Donnington shows there was a man demonstrating a tool that he called "Spin It Off". I now kick myself for putting off the purchase as I cannot find one. This tool seems to me to be the best option. Does anyone know where to buy "Spin It Off" or has one I could copy.

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PostPost by: ericbushby » Tue May 29, 2018 8:46 am

dscf0486.jpg and
dscf0484.jpg and
This is the spinner adaptor which I made:-
The disc is 150mm diameter, 6mm steel sheet laser cut locally. ?5.00
Three 12mm screws and nuts ?1.50
3/4" Whitworth nut. ?0.50
Welding, free by local garage
White polypropelene sheet and loose red plastic bobbins madefrom workshop stock.
3/4" Whit socket for torque wrench, free at Tatton Park car show. Having bought some other stuff, convinced the dealer he would never sell it.
It works well and only plastic parts can contact the spinner and wheel.
You do not have to like it. It is just to give more ideas, that`s all.
Eric in Burnley
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PostPost by: mcclelland » Tue May 29, 2018 11:37 am

Hi all,

I have used just a smidgen Copper slip on my threads for over 40 years and never had a wheel loosen. I would think the problem with using Copper slip is that you could over tighten the spinner. When you use certain oils for assembly they do tell you to use a lesser torque.
As for the spinner loosening.....this may sound daft, but are the wheel hubs on the right side ????

Best regards, George.
George McC.
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PostPost by: USA64 » Tue May 29, 2018 12:42 pm

The owner of Eurotire in Fairfield NJ recommended never-seize on wheel studs. Dick DeBiasse, a machinist of some repute, advised STP. The factory manual says 200lb on the knock-off. Mine is an uneared octagonal nut.
We are supposed to be having fun, are we not?
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