Petrol Tank Flushing / Hand brake cable removal
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Hello
Removed the petrol tank today amongst other things and found it had about 2 gallon of very very muddy fuel in. I shock it about and emptied into a can.
How do I flush it and with what? More petrol? (SHMBO is not going to be happy with that!)
Also (I know its in the workshop manual but mine is in the UK at present) how do I remove/ disconnect the handbrake cable?
Thanks
Terry
Removed the petrol tank today amongst other things and found it had about 2 gallon of very very muddy fuel in. I shock it about and emptied into a can.
How do I flush it and with what? More petrol? (SHMBO is not going to be happy with that!)
Also (I know its in the workshop manual but mine is in the UK at present) how do I remove/ disconnect the handbrake cable?
Thanks
Terry
- terryp
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Hi
I have cleaned Mini tanks with a power wash before. That way you have no solvent to dispose of after.
When finished I would put in a little petrol to wash the water out and pour what comes out into my lawn mower.
Jason
I have cleaned Mini tanks with a power wash before. That way you have no solvent to dispose of after.
When finished I would put in a little petrol to wash the water out and pour what comes out into my lawn mower.
Jason
50/0951 1968 Wedgewood blue +2, 1990 Mini Cooper RSP
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Jason1 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Hi Terry
Could you start one topic about your Elan restoration so that we can follow what and how it is going? Multiple questions seems very confusing to me, I really can't follow along and when you ask questions I don't know the background. There is a lot of info that you ask about and some of it has been posted recently and I wonder maybe you need to sit down with some beer or wine or a coffee for an evening of reading to get used to using the search tools here on the forum. I think you would learn more and not have to wait for the answers. I posted this about a month ago and it may be some use to you
Hope this helps
Gary
elan-f15/why-compress-rear-suspension-remove-t24347-30.html
To lift the body off, there are 16 bolts. That is the easy part, the shifter, carbs, choke cable, rear carb studs, E-brake cable (disco the cable at clevis fork at rear and pull the slack forward, pull hand brake all the way out and remove cable from hand brake pull and feed the cable through the firewall), brake and clutch lines from the masters, speedo cable at the gearbox, radiator hoses, temperature sender, heater valve, heater hoses, heater cable, engine harness attachments in the bay, inner rear seat slide bolts, inner seat belt bolts, rear shoulder harness bolts (if the are there), fuel line at the tank, battery cable at the starter, oil pressure line at the engine, coil wire at the distributor, exhaust bracket(s) to body in the rear, vacuum line at the T to the vacuum switch. I think thats all, it takes about a day to get everything done, check and double check. Get a case of beer and invite friends over and have a bear, trial lift to TRIPLE check. If you missed anything then they can have another beer while you attend to it. Then lift again. You can also jack up the whole Elan up about 30 inches and lower the chassis, I use this method as I don't have 3 or 4 friends that can be bribed with beer (it might be a stretch to find 3 friends to help for me ). the work shop manual has a complete description too, this is an off the top of my head 10 minute post. If I missed anything, you will find it or maybe someone else will proof read this and update it. You really cant see much chassis with the body on, cutting access hole is going to limit what you can do, listen to Mark, he's one person that has been there a few times.
Could you start one topic about your Elan restoration so that we can follow what and how it is going? Multiple questions seems very confusing to me, I really can't follow along and when you ask questions I don't know the background. There is a lot of info that you ask about and some of it has been posted recently and I wonder maybe you need to sit down with some beer or wine or a coffee for an evening of reading to get used to using the search tools here on the forum. I think you would learn more and not have to wait for the answers. I posted this about a month ago and it may be some use to you
Hope this helps
Gary
elan-f15/why-compress-rear-suspension-remove-t24347-30.html
To lift the body off, there are 16 bolts. That is the easy part, the shifter, carbs, choke cable, rear carb studs, E-brake cable (disco the cable at clevis fork at rear and pull the slack forward, pull hand brake all the way out and remove cable from hand brake pull and feed the cable through the firewall), brake and clutch lines from the masters, speedo cable at the gearbox, radiator hoses, temperature sender, heater valve, heater hoses, heater cable, engine harness attachments in the bay, inner rear seat slide bolts, inner seat belt bolts, rear shoulder harness bolts (if the are there), fuel line at the tank, battery cable at the starter, oil pressure line at the engine, coil wire at the distributor, exhaust bracket(s) to body in the rear, vacuum line at the T to the vacuum switch. I think thats all, it takes about a day to get everything done, check and double check. Get a case of beer and invite friends over and have a bear, trial lift to TRIPLE check. If you missed anything then they can have another beer while you attend to it. Then lift again. You can also jack up the whole Elan up about 30 inches and lower the chassis, I use this method as I don't have 3 or 4 friends that can be bribed with beer (it might be a stretch to find 3 friends to help for me ). the work shop manual has a complete description too, this is an off the top of my head 10 minute post. If I missed anything, you will find it or maybe someone else will proof read this and update it. You really cant see much chassis with the body on, cutting access hole is going to limit what you can do, listen to Mark, he's one person that has been there a few times.
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garyeanderson - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Thanks Gary , I'll start a global topic the next time I ask a question , and also post a few pictures of where I am.
I've taken a lot more off the car as it needs to come of anyway so I am nearly ready for the lift although logistically as my parts are now piling in in Susan Millers shop until late April I may decide to attack the door fit prior to the lifting off, and get a few things straight while I can still access the body. (once lifted it will be up on joists and access will be difficult)
I searched through to see about petrol tank flushing and found nothing. I do prefer to post a question as that it what a forum is for. Otherwise I would just open all the books and search on Wikipedia.
Cheers
Terry
I've taken a lot more off the car as it needs to come of anyway so I am nearly ready for the lift although logistically as my parts are now piling in in Susan Millers shop until late April I may decide to attack the door fit prior to the lifting off, and get a few things straight while I can still access the body. (once lifted it will be up on joists and access will be difficult)
I searched through to see about petrol tank flushing and found nothing. I do prefer to post a question as that it what a forum is for. Otherwise I would just open all the books and search on Wikipedia.
Cheers
Terry
- terryp
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I have found excellent info on caliper rebuild info on the Ttriumph sites, I go to where the information is Not on this site for a lot of the stuff I need as there seems to be a lot of experience that can be tapped. Google is the best tool and to just ask and re-ask seems to be a waste of time. Waiting for someone to come along with the time and knowledge may happen in 20 minutes now but as winter turns to spring and then summer people get busy and then your at the mercy of your own ability to find what you need. Order of disassembly and re-assembly is something that this site offers as it iis specifice to the Elan. Take a read of Alexs Sprint restoration its well writen and well read.
New car arriving
elan-f14/new-car-arriving-t15608.html
What I am trying to say is others go through this and have posted it and what you are doing is not all that different, they have a lot to offer and already have put pencil to paper so please take advantage of it. Save some time and ask questions where its been discussed if there is something that is not clear or you don't understand reply there, it brings it to the top and its as new as if you click on "New Topic". I am glad to take time as are others to help but if you just ask a lot of questions it seems like spoon feeding and when I just post a link with a "see if this helps", then I think that I'm just repeating myself and then I stop replying.
Gary
New car arriving
elan-f14/new-car-arriving-t15608.html
What I am trying to say is others go through this and have posted it and what you are doing is not all that different, they have a lot to offer and already have put pencil to paper so please take advantage of it. Save some time and ask questions where its been discussed if there is something that is not clear or you don't understand reply there, it brings it to the top and its as new as if you click on "New Topic". I am glad to take time as are others to help but if you just ask a lot of questions it seems like spoon feeding and when I just post a link with a "see if this helps", then I think that I'm just repeating myself and then I stop replying.
Gary
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garyeanderson - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Hi Terry,
Re: handbrake cable removal...... a small tip which may save a bit of struggling. There is a spring/button which retains the handbrake pull in the outer casing, you need to push this in to get the lever out. Easy to miss when scrabbling about under the dash.
Re: handbrake cable removal...... a small tip which may save a bit of struggling. There is a spring/button which retains the handbrake pull in the outer casing, you need to push this in to get the lever out. Easy to miss when scrabbling about under the dash.
Roger
S4 DHC
S4 DHC
- oldelanman
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