Fuel filler cap refurbishment

PostPost by: Graham B » Fri Jan 28, 2022 1:40 pm

Just been trying to track down a petrol smell in the boot of my 1968 S4 Elan.

Although I don't think it is the cause, I found the filler cap seals were showing signs of age, (53 years of age!). Found on these forums the website for CEANDESS (Wolverhampton) Ltd. who made the original caps for Lotus. Called them and they have Refurb Kits available for their ranges of caps used on many Classic Bikes and Cars.

My S4 Elan uses a Presto 75 Non locking Vented cap and needed this kit -
02518003 KIT – Non-Locking, Vented Refurb Kit. with instructions for about £16.
It has a replacement Sealing Plate (2 9/16" dia), Post Seal (5/8" od x 3/8" id x 1/2" long rubber tube), Spring, Screw, Spring and Plain Washers and Hinge Pin.
Check them out at http://www.ceandess.co.uk They were very helpful and friendly when I called at their factory in Wolverhampton. And, for a Step Back in Time, have a look at their old catalogues from the 1980's.

Now to get the tank out and leak test it!
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PostPost by: tonyabacus » Fri Feb 04, 2022 12:17 pm

Hi Graham
Good contact for the kit thanks

However before you remove your tank have you tried testing in situ, here is a simple method and you will need
Parts:
1. Household nitrile glove like the surgical gloves, quite thin
2. Rubber band
3. Length of plastic tube to fit over the fuel outlet pipe and air vent pie
4. Two Jubilee clips for above hose
5. Bicycle pump or foot pump

Method
1. Fit hose between fuel outlet pipe and air vent pipe and seal it with the clips
2. Stretch the glove over the fuel filler pipe and wrap elastic band round as tight as possible
3. Snip a very tiny piece off of the end of one of the fingers
4. Stretch the cut end of the finger over your pump and hold it as ait tight as you can
5. Blow air into the tank until the glove becomes a little firm, not too much air as a tank normally should not take
more than around 5/6psi or they can blow the seams
6. Hold on to the finger to stop air escaping and remove pump
7. Tie off the cut finger
8. Leave for several hours, checking every so often that the glove is still inflated to more or less the same
pressure
9. If the glove starts to deflate use some soapy liquid to test around the fuel gauge fitting for leaks and around the
seams you can get at.

NB. Try to do this in the morning as the day warms up, otherwise if you do it at night, the cold air will make the glove deflate and perhaps give the impression there is a leak when there may not be.

Also if your air vent is in the filler pipe then the glove will take care of that meaning you just need to seal the outlet pipe with a bung in the hose.

Hope that saves you some time
Tony
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PostPost by: The Veg » Sat Feb 05, 2022 11:23 pm

+1 For the cap kit! See the pic below for what a previous owner did in a feeble attempt to make the cap on my car seal. I installed the kit and it works a treat!
Attachments
CapSeal.jpg and
1970 Elan Plus 2 (not S) 50/2036
2012 BMW R1200GS
"It just wouldn't be a complete day if I didn't forget something!" -Me
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PostPost by: tonyabacus » Mon Feb 07, 2022 10:34 am

That is disgusting, I am surprised some of that gunk has not dropped off causing you fuel problems
Tony
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PostPost by: The Veg » Sat Mar 19, 2022 10:39 pm

tonyabacus wrote:That is disgusting, I am surprised some of that gunk has not dropped off causing you fuel problems
Tony


I rebuilt the cap after rebuilding the carbs but before I ever ran the engine, so all is good. The gunk (red RTV actually) held together rather well, but I'm glad it's gone now.
1970 Elan Plus 2 (not S) 50/2036
2012 BMW R1200GS
"It just wouldn't be a complete day if I didn't forget something!" -Me
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