TTR linkage above
But, recently I found that the cable was binding with a grinding noise. The throttle had become increasingly difficult to push. Rather than replace the cable or troubleshoot the issue I thought I might try another approach. I had earlier been intrigued by the Mangoletsi throttle linkage. What appealed to me was the various adjustments available to tune the throttle action to one's preference. However, I was earlier scared off of the Mangoletsi approach as the only info I could find regarding installation in an Elan indicated that it required removing material from the inlet runner web, something I was loath to do on a brand new head. The photo below shows the area where the head material was filed down in the earlier post.
Head filed down for clearance above
Even with this concern I thought I would give the Mangoletsi a try, figuring there had to be some other solution besides filing the head.
I purchased the Mangoletsi in the UK. I couldn't find a US based supplier. When I trial fitted the Mangoletsi I found that the interference of the inter-carb linkage (throttle lever and balance lever) was much worse than expected. It would require removing something like at least 1/4" from the web - out of the question. The area circled below is where the interference occurs.
After much thought and fiddling I figured out a solution which was to rotate the intercarb linkage away from the web by 180 degrees to a position where there was free space. This required modifying the existing (right hand throttle lever as well as the supplied ball pin (left hand) throttle lever and then superimposing them on the rightmost carb. The modifications to the two levers are shown in the pictures below.
Modification to Mangoletsi lever above
Modification to original lever above
Summary of steps with mods as depicted in above pictures:
1. Remove the connecting tab on the Msngoletsi supplied throttle lever, only retaining the throttle stop and ball pin lever.
2. Remove the lever and throttle stop on the original right hand lever, and the standoff washer. Thus, retaining only the tab to connect to the balance lever on other carb. Relieve this interconnecting throttle tab (as shown) to not foul the ball jointed Mangoletsi connector on the right carb.
3. Rotate the existing right hand throttle lever 180 degrees and place on top of the modified left hand lever with the ball pin. Secure both levers together with the nut and tab washer.
4. Rotate by 180 degrees the newly supplied right hand balance lever and secure it on the left carb with the nut and tab washer, engaging the connection tab from the front carb. Adjust the balance to synch the two carbs.
Some pictures of the completed assembly:
What this accomplishes is that the inter-carb connection is rotated by 180 degrees and completely clear of the web on the head. So no clearance problems, and no modification of the head.
So how does the new Mangoletsi throttle feel?
1. The pedal pressure is much, much less than the TTR. At first, it took a little while to adjust and I considered putting in stronger springs. I had already adjusted the mechanism for maximum spring tension. But, now I like the easily depressed pedal and don't feel the need for stronger springs.
2. The overall action is very, very smooth, direct and responsive. No lost action in the linkage. Utterly smooth cable travel.
3. The overall effect is a dramatic sense of readily available power. With the TTR the pedal action was a bit more binary (on/off). (Maybe also because of the "frictional drag" in the system, as implemented on my car.) The Mangoletsi throttle is more controllable but also more sensitive.
The car feels so much more powerful, delivering a smooth and continuous transition to all of its horsepower and torque with little pedal effort. The car feels faster and quicker.
To reiterate, the Mangoletsi will not work on an Elan (Weber head) straight out of the box. Not a plug and play solution. But, with some judicious fettling of the parts it can be made to work and not require untoward "mods" to the head.
Street 181 BHP
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I built my own and it...worked, but was ugly
So I went with a sytec and it worked first time. I liked it so much I fitted it to my Alfa Romeo twincam too... And had the same problem as the OP, the mechanism fouled the castings of the inlet manifold, I searched for the correct levers and ended up rotating a standard "lotus" Weber lever by 180degrees and it works perfectly,
so I now have two Weber setups on the sytec mechanism, and if you wire brush the alloy parts you can make them look old/retro
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My initial concern was the change in cable direction through the sweep forced the cable to rub the cable out end of the housing, no matter how adjusted. (No self-respecting bicycle mechanic would ever approach such a design.) I bent the mounting plate to the middle of the sweep angle, which helped but did not cure. I determined what I needed was a small rod end to fit the cable housing end to so it could swivel through the sweep and "point" in the direction of cable travel.
Further, I determined I could reduce the sweep angle by moving the cable end further from the lever.
And I, too, was unhappy with the digital nature of lever operation. So I though what I needed was some kind of wheel to replace the lever with, one that would operate over 90 degrees. I wanted slow take up and fast finish, so it would need some kind of eccentricity.
Then I noticed I, too, could not get WOT! That was the final straw, so I took it out and began re-bodging.
A bit of stainless allowed me to extend the mounting point of a small rod end a few inches and now the cable will track anything without rubbing. Taking the operating lever out I scribed an Euler curve to match my desires and cut a plate to do that. Now the throttle works half as fast to start and twice as fast to finish. And I fashioned a bicycle style cable pinch, no kinks there.
I figure with labor this re-bodged Sytec is worth about $30,000. I do like the stainless plate idea above and I am still attracted by the Mangoletsi solution. But this one now works and I have other things to do.
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