Lotus Elan

Webers nuts...

PostPost by: JJDraper » Tue Mar 24, 2020 10:05 am

After a frustrating period of having to take the webers on and off my +2 half a dozen times (don't ask), and dealing with the finger numbing contortions to tighten the lower attachment nuts, it occurs to me there must be an easier way of doing this. The problem is the lack of space around the nuts to get a spanner on them. Has anyone used K nuts in this area? These have a smaller head which may give easier access for a spanner. Burtons have self locking versions of these at a reasonable price... (no affiliations etc) so I may give them a try. I suppose the alternative is cutting down a spanner to make a custom tool for the job.. after all they don't have to be tight.

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PostPost by: rgh0 » Tue Mar 24, 2020 10:35 am

I use standard nylocs with a cut down open ended spanner,,, still not easy. Using reduced hex jet nuts sounds like a good option to try in addition. A small flex head ratchet ring spanner ( Gearwrench style) would maybe fit for easy tightening then

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PostPost by: vincereynard » Tue Mar 24, 2020 1:00 pm

IF Webers are very similar to Dellortos in this area, I use (frequently) a 1/4" rachet + 6" or 4" extention + stubby 13mm socket. Very little torque is required so short and cheapo is fine. Very little contortions required!

I also found that by very gently fully tight the nut so as to take up all "clearance", then backing off 1 complete turn gives the correct flop.
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PostPost by: pharriso » Tue Mar 24, 2020 1:11 pm

vincereynard wrote:IF Webers are very similar to Dellortos in this area, I use (frequently) a 1/4" rachet + 6" or 4" extention + stubby 13mm socket. Very little torque is required so short and cheapo is fine. Very little contortions required!


Me too! I have Webers...:D
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PostPost by: nmauduit » Tue Mar 24, 2020 1:38 pm

I would not use Knuts for fear they cut into the studs over time and make the feel different, on which I rely to get the final torque, plus they are immediately harder to finger tighten which I rely on so that juggling the wrench blind is cut to a minimum (attaching the wrench to the wrist can save some aggravation). The little cheat I have recourse to is pushing up the engine after partly undoing the mount on that side (it has a slot that comes from having it fit under the bonnet), do the bottom nuts to a given length assessed with a mirror, then do the tightening via the top nuts. I usually remove the distributor for smoother access, the car has to be just at the right height and if the nerve level is low enough the dreaded assembly can go relatively smoothly.
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Tue Mar 24, 2020 2:13 pm

pharriso wrote:
vincereynard wrote:IF Webers are very similar to Dellortos in this area, I use (frequently) a 1/4" rachet + 6" or 4" extention + stubby 13mm socket. Very little torque is required so short and cheapo is fine. Very little contortions required!


Me too! I have Webers...:D


There you go.
I've just bought a cheapo Draper set with wall drive sockets and a flexible drive, that would be even easier. Spot a blob of paint on the stud / nut to show if there is any movement.
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PostPost by: el-saturn » Tue Mar 24, 2020 4:56 pm

me too: use a 6inch flex extension and a 13mil nut - for weight reasons :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: i use k-nuts on the the top and a 3/8 spanner sandy - takes 5 min at the very most incl. gas-lines
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PostPost by: mbell » Tue Mar 24, 2020 6:07 pm

I use:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-35-Piec ... et/3387640

Quicker to get the lower nuts off that the upper ones that need a normal spanner...
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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PostPost by: RogerFrench » Tue Mar 24, 2020 6:30 pm

I too use a socket with 6" extension, but 1/2"AF socket. I know 13mm is close, but use the right size if you can.
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PostPost by: webbslinger » Tue Mar 24, 2020 7:20 pm

I use a 6" flexible wire 1/4" extension like the one pictured. It makes working on carbs a simple job.
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PostPost by: shaun » Tue Mar 24, 2020 7:38 pm

Knuts fitted to my Weber’s ,makes the job a lot easier
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PostPost by: Elan45 » Thu Mar 26, 2020 1:09 am

Shaun and other K nut advocates. There are two styles of k nuts. There are K nuts which are normal full threads and then nuts similar to Stover lock nuts, where deformed threads act as locking devices.

Since the O rings and Thackery washers are used to act as a spring, a normal nut could loosen over time. This application needs a locking function.

I use the normal "nylok" 5/16 unf nuts w/ 1/2 " hex and use a 1/4 drive ratchet and 6" extension. I've not found a need for a flex extension to tighten the bottom Weber nuts.

I also have a snap-on J3236 short wrench, 1/2" x 9/16" ends and about 4-1/4 overall length and a mating J2428 which is 3/8 x 7/16". I bought my first pair of these back in the early 70s, when I was twisting wrenches to put food on the table. These wrenches are also thin, like a tappet wrench and this is what I use on the fuel pump bolts. I have bought these wrenches off ebay. They show up often and are found by searching "Snap-On J3236"

You need small tools to work on small cars!

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PostPost by: alan.barker » Thu Mar 26, 2020 8:38 am

pharriso wrote:
vincereynard wrote:IF Webers are very similar to Dellortos in this area, I use (frequently) a 1/4" rachet + 6" or 4" extention + stubby 13mm socket. Very little torque is required so short and cheapo is fine. Very little contortions required!


Me too! I have Webers...:D

+1 me too + Nyloc Nuts very easy
Alan
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PostPost by: Davidb » Thu Mar 26, 2020 9:25 pm

I cut down a regular 1/2 inch spanner/wrench.

Cut/hack/chop/break the "open end" off so that the overall length is 4 1/2 inches.

Using a bench grinder or similar grind the "ring" down until it fits over the nuts without fouling the body of the carbs-clean up the end you chopped/hacked/sawed at the same time.

Keep this new tool in the car at all times.

It works very well--as does removing the distributor cap and leads to make the job even easier.
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