Carburetors go on the car prior to the engine being reinstal
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Getting the bottom nuts on and torqued correctly is a real challenge with the engine in - doable, but fiddly for sure. Much easier before the engine goes back in, though engine mount, distributor, and starter re-installs are much tougher with carbs in place. Basically pick your poison.
Henry
69 Elan S4
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69 Elan S4
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I always leave the carbs off when reinstalling the engine. They always catch on something when your attention is elsewhere. Yes, one of the bottom nuts is a pain to put back on but without the carbs you have more space to get down around the engine mounts.
Stuart Holding
Thame UK / Alpe D'Huez France
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Thame UK / Alpe D'Huez France
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I would fit the heater valve ... the top of the footwell gets in the way once the engine is in the car. It can be done after but you will need to jack the engine up or take the valve apart to do so.
Roger
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Are the Strombergs really that difficult to install once the engine is in? It is the proximity of the Webers to the bulkhead which is their major problem.
Meg
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26/4088 1965 S1½ Old and scruffy but in perfect working order; the car too.
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Quart Meg Miles - Coveted Fifth Gear
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I will certainly review my work. After new engine mounts and engine put in with transmission my heater valve went in just fine, no interference. I had been warned and forgotten so it was one of those moments.
We are supposed to be having fun, are we not?
- USA64
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Quart Meg Miles wrote:Are the Strombergs really that difficult to install once the engine is in? It is the proximity of the Webers to the bulkhead which is their major problem.
No they're dead easy, O rings in place and just slot them onto the studs. Do up five of the six fixing nuts in seconds and then .... either get lucky and get the sixth (left hand carb, bottom nut) done up in a couple of minutes or spend the next couple of hours dislocating your finger joints and recovering the nut with a magnet. Or split the carbs and put them on one at a time.
Stuart Holding
Thame UK / Alpe D'Huez France
69 S4 FHC
Honda GoldWing 1800
Honda CBX1000
Kawasaki H1 500
Yamaha XS2
Thame UK / Alpe D'Huez France
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69S4 wrote:... or spend the next couple of hours dislocating your finger joints and recovering the nut with a magnet.
^this, 2 out of the 3 times I reinstalled carbs with engine in place, the other time I got lucky in the first 30 minutes. I also found it challenging to get the required spacing correct when installing with the engine in place.
Henry
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I cut down an open ended spanner to about 2 inches just for tightening those bottom nuts on Strombergs. Its still a bit fiddly but not too bad.
Dave Chapman.
Dave Chapman.
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david.g.chapman wrote:I cut down an open ended spanner to about 2 inches just for tightening those bottom nuts on Strombergs. Its still a bit fiddly but not too bad.
Dave Chapman.
Same here. Couldn't get the job done with my normal wrenches. Ground off some of the thickness of the business end of the wrench as well. Then polished the thing up. Made the job possible for me.
Steve Lyle
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steve lyle - Third Gear
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I use a flexible (wire wound) 1/4" drive extension for the lower carb nuts, and a mirror to confirm the tightness. It's pretty simple with the extension and it works well for carb nuts because they aren't torqued down tight. I've never pulled or replaced the engine with the carbs on.
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.............this stuff makes some of us smile all over: thanks mates!!! i've been acquainted to my car since 1980 and other than the differential i've had every single part of the car in my hands ............. and restored them., when necessary. my engine (2 diff. heights and now at 701m) has been out at least 5 times and certain questions we read do really show the laymen amongst us. remember (us elderly folks) back then: you'd heat and modify spanners, make or weld new extensions, hit the lathe or the mill etc. etc.. i love all these different appoaches, don't you?? sandy
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