+2 Fuel tank
38 posts
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Nice... not!
Perhaps I would be better off with a new crush tube and trying again. I don't have the tools to do it properly. On the other hand, if you should rebuild the diff when changing the seal, and getting it wrong also means a diff rebuild, I see no harm in trying it.
Incidentally, the idea of re-tightening to the same location was discussed on this very forum. Not my own idea...
[Edit: Sorry, off topic!]
Perhaps I would be better off with a new crush tube and trying again. I don't have the tools to do it properly. On the other hand, if you should rebuild the diff when changing the seal, and getting it wrong also means a diff rebuild, I see no harm in trying it.
Incidentally, the idea of re-tightening to the same location was discussed on this very forum. Not my own idea...
[Edit: Sorry, off topic!]
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JonB - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2399
- Joined: 14 Nov 2017
JonB wrote:Nice... not!
Perhaps I would be better off with a new crush tube and trying again.
I have on occasion "uncrushed" the crush tube by inserting a large diameter bar or strong tube, supporting the bar at both ends, and carefully hammering out the bulge
68 Elan +2, 70 Elan +2s
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Foxie - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1631
- Joined: 20 Sep 2003
To update this thread....
Today I have taken delivery of my beautiful Axminster aluminium tank and as others before me have said it truly is a work of art!...Has the dimples for the diff mounts and takes the original gauge sender unit.
I asked Andy about painting it before fitting and he suggested powdercoating it however I have heard stories about how it can be a problem powdercoating aluminium because it needs to be chemically treated beforehand by someone who really knows what they are doing.
Does anyone have any thoughts on powdercoating it or maybe should I just etch primer and paint it?...Alternatively just leave as is?
Alan.
Today I have taken delivery of my beautiful Axminster aluminium tank and as others before me have said it truly is a work of art!...Has the dimples for the diff mounts and takes the original gauge sender unit.
I asked Andy about painting it before fitting and he suggested powdercoating it however I have heard stories about how it can be a problem powdercoating aluminium because it needs to be chemically treated beforehand by someone who really knows what they are doing.
Does anyone have any thoughts on powdercoating it or maybe should I just etch primer and paint it?...Alternatively just leave as is?
Alan.
Alan
'71 +2 S130/ 5speed Type9.
'71 +2 S130/ 5speed Type9.
- alanr
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 919
- Joined: 14 Sep 2018
I installed mine as is, it looks great. I did make sure that the rubber pads under the securing bands were properly located - I installed it without removing the parcel shelf, 20/20 hindsight suggests that the limited work in removing the parcel shelf would have made the installation far easier, but one lives and learns.
N
N
Nick Baxter
1970 Plus 2S (Federal)
1969 Plus 2 (UK) - sold
1970 Plus 2S (Federal)
1969 Plus 2 (UK) - sold
- nwbaxter66
- Second Gear
- Posts: 179
- Joined: 03 Aug 2006
Nick,Thanks for the input....
I already have good access having all seats out, boot lid off and boot strength panel out. Shortly to remove rear window to replace the seal so access isn't a problem for me. Straps with the rubber correctly placed duly noted but it is more the underside of the tank that can't be seen and has the possibility of being a damp trap if the rear window were to leak that is my concern.
My thinking at the moment is to keep this car for a long time, possibly to pass on to my sons when I go, so I am looking for best longterm corrosion protection ideas. I was going to have it powdercoated but I have been reading on the internet about powdercoat being a problem with adhesion to aluminium or luminum to you guys across the pond hence my question.
Alan
I already have good access having all seats out, boot lid off and boot strength panel out. Shortly to remove rear window to replace the seal so access isn't a problem for me. Straps with the rubber correctly placed duly noted but it is more the underside of the tank that can't be seen and has the possibility of being a damp trap if the rear window were to leak that is my concern.
My thinking at the moment is to keep this car for a long time, possibly to pass on to my sons when I go, so I am looking for best longterm corrosion protection ideas. I was going to have it powdercoated but I have been reading on the internet about powdercoat being a problem with adhesion to aluminium or luminum to you guys across the pond hence my question.
Alan
Alan
'71 +2 S130/ 5speed Type9.
'71 +2 S130/ 5speed Type9.
- alanr
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 919
- Joined: 14 Sep 2018
Aluminum is basically self protecting, i.e. the oxide layer that is generated protects it. So I suspect that it only really a cosmetic concern to lacquer/paint/powdercoat it.
Personally I'd simplify and add lightness. I.e. do nothing and fit it natural as it not a visible component.
Personally I'd simplify and add lightness. I.e. do nothing and fit it natural as it not a visible component.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
- mbell
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2704
- Joined: 07 Jun 2013
That concern makes sense but the damp shouldn?t really impact the AL.
It sure is a pretty piece of aluminum welding though !!!
One other suggestion - while you have it out plumb it for a return line just in case you decide to go for FI sometime in the future. It saves the hassle of having to drag the tank out and then working on a used tank.
It sure is a pretty piece of aluminum welding though !!!
One other suggestion - while you have it out plumb it for a return line just in case you decide to go for FI sometime in the future. It saves the hassle of having to drag the tank out and then working on a used tank.
Nick Baxter
1970 Plus 2S (Federal)
1969 Plus 2 (UK) - sold
1970 Plus 2S (Federal)
1969 Plus 2 (UK) - sold
- nwbaxter66
- Second Gear
- Posts: 179
- Joined: 03 Aug 2006
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