Jenvey Heritage TB kit

[pauljones]

You dont need a return to tank. You can use the origonal lift pump to fill a swirl pot. From said swirl pop a high pressure pump can be fitted either internal or external. I know a lot of 7 owners have this mounted in nose.
That essentiall means its all plumbed up as per a normal injection system with the return going back into swirl pot.
All the upgraded parts are then still a reverse fit item.

If you wanted to keep the dcoes, then there are crank fired ignitions that cn be fitted and programed that dont cost the earth. Alot of zetec guys run 45s and edis and work perfectly fine. Obviously a crank fired ignition solution will cost a whole lot less than a full EFI conversion.

You also dont need a lambda input, i ran mine for years before adding one. It has its uses but in my opinion, not strictly needed.
I put one in to have the ability to see and control fueling. My next upgrade to it will be a digital gauge to display live readings.

Paul

[DavidLB]

Hi I went down the QED rote when rebuilding my 130/5 the extra fuel lines are easy to conceal and easy to put back to original as is the lambda boss on the exhaust. I mine was only used on the initial setup and then blanked off, I have found it well worth the effort, instant start and very easy to return to factory if you really need to. I wouldn't hesitate

[denicholls2]

Jim's point certainly being valid for very occasional use, I think even the Jenvey cost pays back pretty quickly with the expected ~30% increase in fuel economy at current fuel prices. And one thing that hasn't been mentioned is that the more precise air/fuel ratio injection offers will result in less fuel dilution of the lubricants and longer life of parts exposed to the mixture.

[prezoom]

My Plus2 Zetec runs a wasted spark and 45's. The ignition is an Electromotive HPV1, which is about as simple as it gets. No computer necessary to set it up, or making adjustments when taking the car out for a drive. It has pots that are adjustable for initial timing, intermediate timing curve, to cut back total advance at higher rpm, and an adjustable rev limiter. I was initially surprised at its first start up and drive, as it had absolutely no bog, hesitation, or flat spots anywhere within the rev range. Carburetor wise, the only difference between the Zetec and my S2 TC, is the carbs are mounted flat and not at an angle. Both have the floats adjusted to the 25mm height fuel setting. Highway mileage is quite acceptable, and recorded 32mpg over a 260 mile drive that was mostly in the 80mph range, with about 6 miles of 1st and 2nd gear stop and go traffic, and about 20 miles of in town driving with signal controlled intersections. Other than the ignition, the only reason I can figure out for the "fuel injection" like driving, is the flat mounting of the carbs. The intake for the Zetec was purchased from Dunnell Engineering. I purchased a 40mm manifold and ported it to match the carbs and the intake ports. The manifold did cause some mounting clearance issues with the inner fender panel and carburetor spacing, when using the standard Weber air box mounting plate and cover.

[davidc]

You can use the original lift pump to fill a swirl pot

liking this idea. just a basic racing fuel swirl pot or would it need to be a special? guess i don't need the capacity of a racing swirl pot but these are all i can find at a quick look, any recommended suppliers?

would the lambda sensor be ok sited on the y piece of exhaust? don't really want the hassle of whipping manifold out but y piece should be easy enough.

read somewhere about tacho needing changing to suit elec ignition? any thoughts on that?

[elanman999]

David,
For info on EFI plumbing go to the SBD Motorsport web site, they have lots of good info there. While you can use a returnless fuel setup there can be issues with doing it. One is that if you park the car up in the sun with a hot engine you might get vapour forming in the fuel rail. With no return leg the only way for the vapour to get out is through the engine.

The Lambda needs to go after the join in the Y piece or in the first part of the pipe. There is plenty of room under the gearbox.

The tacho should work fine provided you feed (+12v) the wasted spark coil with the same wire that now goes to the single coil. Well my RVI tacho does.

Cheers
John

[pauljones]

As above for the lambda. It has to be where the system becomes 1 pipe. Mines almost in line with the gear stick and feeds thro gearbox gaiter.

My Emerald has a dedicated feed output to a tacho. Mines not yet connected.

For swirl pot you only need a couple of liters. I got told ages back 1 gallon is more than enougth.
It only needs to contain an amount to stop fuel surge.

Ill up date with a pic of my lambda position latter on.