Best practice advice sort for fuel lines, hoses and looms
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I need to replace the fuel hose between the fuel pressure regulator and fuel rail to my plus 2 (Zetec silver top, Jenvey carbs). Space is tight and the hose is bent placing it under a bit of stress.
Has anyone alleviated the stress caused by the bent hose line using connections and if so what have you found to work best?
Please note that I can't get AN connections into the fuel rail as the air box aluminium plate is to close.
I'm also going to tidy up the fuel and water lines and wiring looms between the rear of the engine and the bulkhead to prevent failure through wear. A friend has suggested using p clips, so I'm interested in any tips.
I look forward to your replies.
Simon
Has anyone alleviated the stress caused by the bent hose line using connections and if so what have you found to work best?
Please note that I can't get AN connections into the fuel rail as the air box aluminium plate is to close.
I'm also going to tidy up the fuel and water lines and wiring looms between the rear of the engine and the bulkhead to prevent failure through wear. A friend has suggested using p clips, so I'm interested in any tips.
I look forward to your replies.
Simon
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Si Geen - First Gear
- Posts: 41
- Joined: 13 Oct 2013
Yes, a picture will help
Sometimes instead of simply turning through 90', say 90' right, bending a fuel line in the opposite direction and putting a loop in before returning to the required destination both avoids the tight turn and introduces a vibration damper. Nice and clear in my mind's eye, but does that make any sense at all written down ?
Alternatively, can you relocate the pressure regulator, just elsewhere, or swap the inlet and outlets on the fuel rail ? I swapped ends and relocated my pressure reg to the radiator mounting (originally I had hidden it under the Jenveys).
Where space was tight around my pump & filter in the boot, I used a fuel proof (nitrile) 90' bend (eBay is my friend)
I use plastic p-clips to secure my home made loom to the body. Where wires need to bridge from the body to the engine, then I normally use some form of sheathing (I've used both fabric and plastic convoluted). However, where the injector, TPS, etc wiring bridges to the engine, space was restricted and I just bound the loom.
Peter
Sometimes instead of simply turning through 90', say 90' right, bending a fuel line in the opposite direction and putting a loop in before returning to the required destination both avoids the tight turn and introduces a vibration damper. Nice and clear in my mind's eye, but does that make any sense at all written down ?
Alternatively, can you relocate the pressure regulator, just elsewhere, or swap the inlet and outlets on the fuel rail ? I swapped ends and relocated my pressure reg to the radiator mounting (originally I had hidden it under the Jenveys).
Where space was tight around my pump & filter in the boot, I used a fuel proof (nitrile) 90' bend (eBay is my friend)
I use plastic p-clips to secure my home made loom to the body. Where wires need to bridge from the body to the engine, then I normally use some form of sheathing (I've used both fabric and plastic convoluted). However, where the injector, TPS, etc wiring bridges to the engine, space was restricted and I just bound the loom.
Peter
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PeterK - Third Gear
- Posts: 282
- Joined: 03 Jul 2012
I'm not sure what your fuel pipe problem is.
My pressure regulator is mounted on the front of the front carb and braided fuel pipes go from there to the carn inlets. One T piece, one right angle bend and then two-more right-angles to make a U shape. I'm not sure who makes these fittings (because they were fitted by Vegantune, Finchley), but I'm pretty sure I've found them on a website too, probably Burton Power.
They look similar to these:
http://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-cat ... l?limit=40
Example T-piece
I can't see the 3 way mail t-piece that Vegan tune used for my front carb there, so you may have to hunt other sources.
My pressure regulator is mounted on the front of the front carb and braided fuel pipes go from there to the carn inlets. One T piece, one right angle bend and then two-more right-angles to make a U shape. I'm not sure who makes these fittings (because they were fitted by Vegantune, Finchley), but I'm pretty sure I've found them on a website too, probably Burton Power.
They look similar to these:
http://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-cat ... l?limit=40
Example T-piece
I can't see the 3 way mail t-piece that Vegan tune used for my front carb there, so you may have to hunt other sources.
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
- billwill
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 4417
- Joined: 19 Apr 2008
Thanks for the replies.
I'm sorry I didn't post a picture, the reason being that I was away from home and didn't have any available on my iPhone at the time of posting.
When I get a chance this weekend I'll put a detailed description with pictures but i managed to pick up food poisoning two days ago and have been a little worse for wear.
The cars in for a paint job on Monday so I'm up against it to repair the split hose connection and remove the furnishings. Let's hope I'm better soon and the wife's sympathetic to giving me some car time.
Simon
I'm sorry I didn't post a picture, the reason being that I was away from home and didn't have any available on my iPhone at the time of posting.
When I get a chance this weekend I'll put a detailed description with pictures but i managed to pick up food poisoning two days ago and have been a little worse for wear.
The cars in for a paint job on Monday so I'm up against it to repair the split hose connection and remove the furnishings. Let's hope I'm better soon and the wife's sympathetic to giving me some car time.
Simon
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Si Geen - First Gear
- Posts: 41
- Joined: 13 Oct 2013
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