S4 Stromberg Confusion
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I put the car back on the road today, Mot done, Insurance done Etc, however the engine seems to be running very rich. Removed the Carb tops and decided to check on the Needle settings but that is where the confusion starts !!.
I punched out both Needles with their holders, they are both Spring Loaded in a small Brass Body held into the Pistons with Grub Screws and each Brass Body has a small Cap Screw on the top which can be accessed through the piston body but the confusion is, should these Screws "adjust" the height of the Needle or are they just there to Cap off the Needle Housing, as it does not matter if they are screwed in or out, they do not touch the needle nor do they appear to come into contact with it at any time, is there something missing ???
I punched out both Needles with their holders, they are both Spring Loaded in a small Brass Body held into the Pistons with Grub Screws and each Brass Body has a small Cap Screw on the top which can be accessed through the piston body but the confusion is, should these Screws "adjust" the height of the Needle or are they just there to Cap off the Needle Housing, as it does not matter if they are screwed in or out, they do not touch the needle nor do they appear to come into contact with it at any time, is there something missing ???
PeterExpart
New Forest National Park
Hampshire UK
New Forest National Park
Hampshire UK
- peterexpart
- Second Gear
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- Joined: 27 Nov 2012
The top screws should thread into the brass needle holder and as you turn them should move the whole assembly - needle holder and needle, up or down. There should be a second grub screw on the side to stop the brass holder rotating.
The top screws come in two types - an allen head or a blade type (I've got one of each!) so you'll need the appropriate type of adjuster. There should be an O ring on each one to stop damping oil leakage and a spring clip on the top to hold the thing in place (which I don't have).
Starting point for the needle is with the bottom of the brass holder level with the bridge of the slide and one turn either way on the adjuster is about as much as you should need. If the adjuster does nothing its probably been turned too much and unscrewed itself.
The top screws come in two types - an allen head or a blade type (I've got one of each!) so you'll need the appropriate type of adjuster. There should be an O ring on each one to stop damping oil leakage and a spring clip on the top to hold the thing in place (which I don't have).
Starting point for the needle is with the bottom of the brass holder level with the bridge of the slide and one turn either way on the adjuster is about as much as you should need. If the adjuster does nothing its probably been turned too much and unscrewed itself.
Stuart Holding
Thame UK / Alpe D'Huez France
69 S4 FHC
Honda GoldWing 1800
Honda CBX1000
Kawasaki H1 500
Yamaha XS2
Thame UK / Alpe D'Huez France
69 S4 FHC
Honda GoldWing 1800
Honda CBX1000
Kawasaki H1 500
Yamaha XS2
- 69S4
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1347
- Joined: 23 Sep 2004
Stuart
Thanks for that, have now re-set the Jet Heights, Needles and the Float Heights {again} and all seems to be back to normal, seems odd driving the car that has been off the road for 25 years, it does go surprisingly well but is a loud little bugger !!!
Thanks for that, have now re-set the Jet Heights, Needles and the Float Heights {again} and all seems to be back to normal, seems odd driving the car that has been off the road for 25 years, it does go surprisingly well but is a loud little bugger !!!
PeterExpart
New Forest National Park
Hampshire UK
New Forest National Park
Hampshire UK
- peterexpart
- Second Gear
- Posts: 223
- Joined: 27 Nov 2012
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