Fuel line Tank to Engine pump

[h20hamelan]

My +2 seems to have rubber from tank to engine, the local requirements are steel (max of 3 feet rubber)

although I may need to have a further look when I have the car up in the air again, what should I prepare for.

I am in the process of sourcing new lines and fittings from pump to carbs. And I would like the primer style mechanical pump.
(then again, people have gone to electric pumps with regulators and flowlocks)

The mechanical with primer seems cheapest and fine. Where are they available, Actually do not see it in SJS
Electric has a price with flowlock of $230


any + , - , for either system

[billwill]

Are you sure it is rubber and not nylon, which is what is used for most modern fuel lines.

[h20hamelan]

Not sure, need to look the next time it is up on my rack.

But I would like to have all the new hoses/lines fitting and clips at the ready incase I desire to renew.

So what do people do now a-days to refit fuel line.

There must be steel line along the backbone???

[PeterK]

Where are you located (useful to add details to your profile).

I also believe that standard fuel pipe was black plastic. I have replaced mine with copper (as part of adding fuel injection) and routed it along the chassis. Others have routed through the car. Personally, I wouldn't use steel for my fuel lines.

If you replace the fuel line with the same as original, then ensure that you use fuel grade pipe. You can purchase replacements from the usual suppliers - Sue at Mick Miller, SJS, Paul Matty in the UK, RD Enterprise, Dave Bean etc in USA. Not done it but would try attaching the new pipe to the end of the old one so that you can pull it through.

I fitted my fuel lines with the body off the chassis, but if you have a ramp I foresee no major difficulty, although with the body off it is easier to get to the pipe clips. I followed the original routing brought the chassis. As I used 8mm copper pipe (available from plumbers as heating pipe), I had to slightly enlarge the bosses through my Spyder chassis. Copper pipe is flexible, to a point. I just kept working the pipe, pulling it through a bit, then going to the end of the car to straighten the coil, back to pulling, etc.
8mm solid pipe also needed a new union to the bottom of the fuel tank - I couldn't get a compression fit banjo, so I used an 8mm push fit and joined it to the pipe with a short length of flexible pipe. You will also need a flexible connection to the fuel pump or filter - I've used 8mm stainless braided PTFE pipe. To keep the flexible pipe attached, I either flared the ends of the copper pipe or soldered on an olive.

Peter

[h20hamelan]

great thanks!

Yea gotta figure out how to change profile, it's been a while!