CHOKE CABLE DISSASEMBLY

PostPost by: gearbox » Sat Nov 10, 2012 11:01 am

Now with these cables getting scarce, I decided to see what I could do in restoring my cables on a 69 SE S4. I found the twisted wire cable itself was rusted inside the housing and when it finally pulled out, it was broken in two parts. I assumed these cables were soldered on to the knob rod and heated the rod and cable until glowing red, but no joy. Pulled with a pretty heavy hand and it still would not release. Anyone tried this before? It doesn't look like it was squeezed together, but I don't know, and did not want to force it and destroy it. Any help?

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PostPost by: miked » Sat Nov 10, 2012 11:18 am

It looks crimped at the bottom. I have one and will have look. I am sure i was told that Sue M has a guy that does these. Mike
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PostPost by: rodlittle » Sat Nov 10, 2012 11:22 am

They are definitely crimped, what I had to do was drive a small spike down to open up the crimp then to fix the new cable I silver soldered it in
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PostPost by: gearbox » Sat Nov 10, 2012 11:48 am

rodlittle wrote:They are definitely crimped, what I had to do was drive a small spike down to open up the crimp then to fix the new cable I silver soldered it in
rod

Thanks Rod and Mike, do you know how deep the cable is set into the rod? I assume you have to use a thin sharpe punch and just spread the rod apart, as you can see, the there are 3 slots in the rod and I think they cracked from the heat.
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PostPost by: elanman999 » Sat Nov 10, 2012 12:02 pm

I removed one by grinding through the crimps with a thin disk in an angle grinder, I then silver soldered the new cable in to the groove. Place a wet rag over the knob to stop it over heating.
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PostPost by: prezoom » Sat Nov 10, 2012 4:00 pm

I replaced the cable/wire on my heater/water valve. Basically, I just cut the end of the shaft off, removing the offending part, then drilled a hole in the end of the shaft and soldered in new wire of the proper length......... Only I had to do it twice. The first wire I chose came from a replacement cable sold by a local auto parts store. Obviously from a third world country where the gauge the size of the wire by pulling through the gaps in their teeth. It was too soft and bent at the end of the housing before shutting off the valve. So..... off to my favorite hardware store and bought some music wire of the correct diameter, un-soldered the offending wire and soldered in the stiffer wire. Soft solder is holding up so far, though most of the strain on the cable is in the compression mode. Everything works just fine now.

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