Starting after been stood for a few days.

PostPost by: robertverhey » Tue Jul 24, 2012 12:06 pm

Worth keeping a new set of spark plugs on hand. I went to start mine after a couple of months storage the other day.... after much pumping and cranking ever more slowly (we've all been there!), in desparation, I whipped the plugs out they were wet and black. Fitted new set and it fired first time.....then once the original plugs have had time to dry out they can go back in and will burn themselves back to good health
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PostPost by: Yum-yum » Tue Jul 24, 2012 3:23 pm

I too would suspect the valves in the mechanical pump. I had a spare pump rebuilt to address this problem but haven't fitted it so I don't know for sure yet. Before the rebuild I could blow air backward through the valves, the valve discs were hardened and distorted. After the rebuild the new valves seal shut. I suspect the fuel is slowly siphoning back to the tank.
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PostPost by: pauljones » Tue Jul 24, 2012 5:12 pm

Just an idea but has a non return valve been considered? I did think about this myself in the line before the mechanical pump, However after looking closer it seems there is not alot of room. So perhaps elsewhere in the fuel line as close to the carbs as possible would help the matter.

I know having experienced this small problem myself that it will not cure it completely,however it may help keep a larger quantity of fuel nearer the carbs and reduce the chance of over cranking and all the other problems that occour with this.

Its just my opinion of course.

Paul
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PostPost by: fatboyoz » Tue Jul 24, 2012 6:26 pm

David,
This is similar to the one I have fitted and should do the job. I have mine installed, inline, adjacent to the fuel tank below the wooden floor panel. Theoretically, the one way checking function of the squeeze pump, alone, should cure your problem.
By the way, I also fitted a glass, cleanable, inline fuel filter just after the squeeze pump. This saved me just recently when I came to a grinding halt. I had picked up some gooey debris when I topped up the tank. Pulled it apart, cleaned it and off we went. Dread to think what a mess it would have made of the filter screen in the EDFP and the fine filters in the
Regards,
Colin.


davidj wrote:Hi,

Thanks for all the posts! I have this problem on two different cars, one with webers and one with delortos. I am in the UK so it is not that warm, but I can guarantee if the cars have been stood for a week they will not start, and if I lift off the carb covers the float chambers will be empty. Other "old" cars I have had in the past with SU's do not exhibit the same problem. Once there is petrol in the float chambers, both cars start instantaneously, warm or cold.

I think Colin has identified the cause of the problem, and as I said in my original post, it could be fixed with a electric pump, but if possible I would like to stick with the manual one.

The squeeze type pumps do sound interesting and a good idea which did not occur to me. Is this what you mean?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8mm-Fuel-Prim ... 53edf45f2e

My only concern is if it is mounted in the fuel line it would increase the volume of petrol in the line. Would this cause a problem to the pump? I guess not. I guess it should be fitted between the pump and the tank, not between the pump and the carbs?

Cheers,

David
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PostPost by: nebogipfel » Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:02 pm

Gentlemen,

I am probably missing the point here but if the problem has been identified as leaking valves in the fuel pump wouldn't it make sense to fix the actual problem?

Otherwise it's a bit like getting a puncture and fixing it by bolting a fifth wheel to the car :? :D

Isn't it better to jump in the car and drive away rather than having to open the bonnet/boot and mess about with priming pumps?
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PostPost by: bast0n » Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:09 pm

Hey - John!

Lets not start getting practical here - this can carry on for weeks!

If it is set up correctly it WILL start. Full stop.
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Tue Jul 24, 2012 8:43 pm

The small hand bulb pump will cure your problem and will be unnoticeable in normal use. You will only need to use it if the car is sitting in excess of two weeks at least. My car will start instantly with a few pumps of the throttle after say two weeks sitting. Any more (say a month) and I prime and start 1st touch.

Fit one. It will save starter and ring gear. Don't listen to some who don't have a clue and trust their car to others to look after. They just don't know what they are talking about.

Listen to what Rohan (For E.G.) tells you. He is one of the highly respected experts on here & will not give anyone bad advice.

Alex B... 8)
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Tue Jul 24, 2012 8:49 pm

PS... My standard mech' Pump is 7k mls old. Fitted new during its resto.. :wink: And the bowl never empties.... Checked that out 1st.

What now?

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PostPost by: nebogipfel » Tue Jul 24, 2012 9:29 pm

alexblack13 wrote:Don't listen to some who don't have a clue and trust their car to others to look after. They just don't know what they are talking about.


Wow! that's some statement :shock: Completely wrong of course! I can't afford to pay someone else to work on my car (or indeed any of the other Elans I have owned) I did 95% of the restoration of my car myself. I didn't sew the trim and I didn't do the gearbox but that's pretty much it.

I claim no expertise on anything, merely state what seems common sense and is my experience with my cars. I have never felt the need for high torque starters, electric pumps, priming pumps or any other "fixes" My current Elan and previous ones have been quite happy to start as supplied by Lotus (I have got rid of points on the current one)

As for experts and with all due respect to Rohan and others on this forum I have met a great many clever people in many fields in my life but I have yet to meet one who is always right all of the time............ :wink:
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Tue Jul 24, 2012 9:49 pm

Me too.. Only bit I did not do was the bodywork.

For the record..... I wasn't referring to you John, and by the way I am def' NOT wrong.. I had one person admit to me he has someone help him look after his car, then comes over all expert and shows an astonishing lack of knowledge whilst telling everyone how wrong they are. Quite rudely too. He know who he is.. I would love to be able to test some of the statements made by some stating their cars start on the button after weeks and weeks of sitting without being run. That would be very interesting I think. :roll:

Alex. 8)
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PostPost by: nebogipfel » Wed Jul 25, 2012 7:51 am

alexblack13 wrote:For the record..... I wasn't referring to you John


Fair enough :)


alexblack13 wrote:I would love to be able to test some of the statements made by some stating their cars start on the button after weeks and weeks of sitting without being run. That would be very interesting I think. :roll:
Alex. 8)


The problem is Alex, mine does.

It starts fine hot or cold. I'll admit sometimes it will need a bit of cranking if it's hot and has stood a bit too long before I go back to it .....there is a problem window if you get my drift.

During the summer I can leave my car a week or two unused and it will start easily with two or three prods on the thottle and a few engine revolutions when I go to it.

In winter I find my periodic engine runs are also OK. I do use the choke and have found that even with a virtually flat battery as long as the engine will struggle a few rotations it will start. When I put the car on the road I fitted a second hand battery removed from a Mini intending it to be temporary, 8 years on and it's still starting the car but is certainly well past it's best.

I do think a factor in the ease with which my car starts is the Aldon Igniter.
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Wed Jul 25, 2012 8:20 am

Great! I like yourself and probably most others have no difficulty starting at all. Need to make that clear. No oily plugs (It has the same new ones fitted when I rebuilt the engine) or any issues hot or cold. It starts instantly. The pump as I said was new. The carbs got fully serviced and are pretty well spot on. It starts stinking hot or from stone cold. I would think anything up to possibly 3 -4 weeks it starts again no bother with around 6 - pumps. But... If it sits for much more than (say ) a month then I prime the carbs. It just removes the need for anything up to 10 secs or so of turning over on the Starter. It Just instantly bursts into life. I sometimes leave the car for longer than a month during winter and 6 - 8 weeks is not unheard off... :roll: ... Ahemm ... Anyway. Again if I did not prime then it needs a good 'churn' before it starts. I just don't think a quick prime is a problem. I used a good quality pump. There is no extra wiring and it is easily reached ( I am up on my ramp anyway) as I leave the carpet folded over and the ply floor off. Evap' is a well known issue and can cause gumming up of the carbs on any engine. My Honda ST1100 did similar and did not like standing during winter. If you let the carbs empty (evap!!) the thing gummed up the carbs and then needed the carbs cleaned & serviced. This is a very well known phenomenon and I (and no doubt others) am surprised you don't know about it. The Honda did of course have an electric pump and did start. It sometimes ran a bit rough before 'clearing though'. I often left it for a complete winter with very few 'start ups'... But had to clean the carbs out more than once.

My little car has Magnetronic electronic sparks with a Bosch 'Blue' coil. The spark is awesome.. and is completely hidden too. :wink:

Not unusual for a hot start 'churn' ... maybe slightly rich? ... I had to downsize my acc' pump jets as they were a bit too big and were causing a rich cut. Slight stagger on pressing the pedal. As long as the car does start when hot then it's not far off.

Well done..

Alex B...
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PostPost by: bast0n » Wed Jul 25, 2012 8:30 am

I would love to be able to test some of the statements made by some stating their cars start on the button after weeks and weeks of sitting without being run. That would be very interesting I think.
Alex.


Any time old bean......................mine has always been an amazing starter over the last 26 years and I run two engines - one in and one rebuilt on standby - with luminetion, coil in the cockpit to keep it cool, I rebuilt the fuel pump, new plugs every 6000 miles, new oil every 3000 and so on.

Off to Spain in September - I will keep you updated.

Works for me........... :lol:
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PostPost by: nebogipfel » Wed Jul 25, 2012 8:31 am

alexblack13 wrote:Not unusual for a hot start 'churn' ... maybe slightly rich? ... I had to downsize my acc' pump jets as they were a bit too big and were causing a rich cut. Slight stagger on pressing the pedal. As long as the car does start when hot then it's not far off.
Alex B...


Yes, it's not a problem as such. The car always starts but I mentioned it in the interest of total honesty :D

All of this is fine and dandy but the bottom line is that the OP's problem after just a couple of days isn't evaporation or mine would be doing it too and he certainly shouldn't have to resort pouring petrol into the float chambers ........
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Wed Jul 25, 2012 8:35 am

Def not... if its not stating its not starting... Something else is up then & needs checking out. :roll:


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