Here are a couple of links to Moss with product description & mounting instructions that might be helpful. The same listing will come up under several car models on the Moss site or, as suggested by Mike above, Google on 'Facet 40104' for numerous alternate suppliers. You can also get a screw in filter (shown in the Moss listing). No additional pressure regulation appears to be required with this pump, but then again like Mike's Midget I am running SU's rather than Webers or Strombergs. I find the noise to be moderate with the engine running, same as described for the Midget. I wanted a mounting point below the base of the tank, which is pretty easy in the Plus 2 with the tank located above the diff; different for the Elan I understand.
http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/prod ... 77-420.pdfhttp://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProd ... ortOrder=1http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/facet- ... si-5-p.asp My pump is mounted on the fibreglass outside the trunk with rubber isolators. Consider using Riv-Nut captive nuts for the mounting or it becomes fussy to tighten the bolts on both sides of the trunk wall.
I added covered spade connectors at the pump wires to facilitate replacement if required. I added the same connectors to my spare pump. Locate the wires first if your install requires drilling the body shell to make the hole as small as possible. Rubber grommet & sealer as required.
The wiring has to include a proper
Black ground wire. Might want to pick up a very reliable ground at the rear of the car.
Looking over the various on-line wire colour guides (more correctly
BS-AU7a 1983 Colour Code for Vehicle Wiring if you are using Google; there is a copy on this site somewhere as well), I notice they call up
White/Green or
White/Purple for the fuel pump power wire. Note a
White wire body colour generally indicates
'Hot in Run or Start, Unfused'. I used the
White/Green wire provided in my after market loom, but added fuse protection. In any case, wiring an electric pump will require running a new dedicated wire to the rear of the car as there will not be provision in the stock loom, so adding in-line fuse protection at the power supply end should be pretty easy. Power to the new wire can be picked up from an appropriate
White junction point, perhaps at the fuse box input or ignition switch depending on how you choose to run the wire. In any case, you will not want the pump power running in the accessory setting of the ignition switch (far left key position) or the pump will be running continuously while listening to tunes waiting for your girl.
I would not recommend powering the fuel pump from the existing
Green wires
(Hot in Run or Start, Fused) on the stock fuse block output due to its critical function and the potential for dodgy connections in the stock fuse box.
I didn't use a power relay in my setup. The consequence is the fuel pump power is going through the ignition switch. I haven't checked the draw on the fuel pump circuit, but assumed the solid state pump has a pretty modest current requirement. In any case has worked with no problems. I now see in the Moss pdf the pump draw is listed as only 1.6 amps with an in-line fuse recommendation of 3 to 5 amps, which is pretty modest, so I can't see a need to add a power relay to protect the ignition switch.
The shut down relay to the oil pressure sender sounds like a good idea, though I am not sure I would like having another level of complication and additional potential failure points in the fuel pump circuit. This would be relatively easy to add to the Plus 2 with its stock electric oil pressure sender, but I don't think this is included in the stock Elan setup with the capillary oil pressure gauge? At any rate, as Richard says the oil pressure light sender is additional to the stock setup in both cars. Not sure how inertial switches work and didn't use one in my setup, so can't comment/help.
HTH