Lotus Elan

Electric fuel pump install

PostPost by: alfert » Tue Jun 12, 2012 3:32 pm

I am thinking about installing an electric fuel pump and could use some input. I want to mount it in the boot and I am not sure where everything will fit properly. Does anyone have a picture of their installation? Also assume I need a pump, pressure regulator, and fuel filter. Any suggestions as to which brand of pump etc.? Also what is the easiest/acceptable way to wire the pump?
Thanks,
Brian
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PostPost by: UAB807F » Tue Jun 12, 2012 4:45 pm

I fitted a low pressure facet pump with regulator in the small cavity formed between the rear drivers' side wing and petrol tank. Although it was stated as suitable for carburetors I was a bit concerned it would supply too much pressure and so fitted a regulator as well. The fuel pipe comes from the front of the tank, routed behind the filler neck & the outlet goes back on the same path. I bolted the pump/earth strap to a wooden framework which is removable, the pump & filter as low as possible with the regulator just above it, all connected by high pressure fuel hose. (not needed, just seemed more robust)

The whole arrangement gets covered by boot carpet but even with that removed would be difficult to photograph due to the angle of the wing. However once you get the bits it's easy to see how it can all fit together.

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PostPost by: simonknee » Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:43 pm

I went for the pok-pok-pok type - the square Facet one. It is a bit annoying and if I had known I would have gone for the barrel shaped one that is constant pressure rather than pulsed.

I supposed on the plus side if the thing goes mental pok-pok-pok-pok-pok-pok-pok-pok you know your about to get down to the fumes!

I put pump, relay, and filter in the gap between tank and spare wheel. It's not the prettiest install I'll take a picture if I can - benefit of putting it in boot is you can wire it directly to the battery via a relay without too much trouble. Using relay means less current through the ignition switch and less interference for radio, tacho, etc

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PostPost by: jono » Tue Jun 12, 2012 5:58 pm

.......you may also wish to consider an inertia switch
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PostPost by: simonknee » Tue Jun 12, 2012 7:59 pm

Not the neatest but it works:

IMG_20120612_204335.jpg and


it's mounted on bobbins supplied with the facet kit for a _bit_ of noise insulation.
It is also at the correct 45deg angle as in the fitting instructions.
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PostPost by: collins_dan » Tue Jun 12, 2012 10:19 pm

Mine is also in the cavity on the right side of the fuel tank. Try to position in line with the tank. I put a fuel filter in the line between the tank and the pump. I put a regulator just before the carbs. An inertia switch is a good idea. Dan
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PostPost by: TroonSprint » Wed Jun 13, 2012 8:35 am

An inertia switch is a really good idea. I got a Peugeot one from eBay. I have the little square Facet pump on my MG Midget and it doesn't need a regulator as the pressure is low enough not cause the carb float valves any problem. The pump came with a fine metal filter on its inlet, but I fitted an ordinary filter between the tank and the pump.
Attachments
Facet.jpg and
Facet pump under my MG Midget.
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Wed Jun 13, 2012 1:52 pm

I also used the small square Faucet pump on my Plus 2. Pressure & volume is fine for the carbs. Was able to buy the pump locally; Moss lists them as well. I think I was able to get a barrel shaped filter that screwed into the pump fittings; I ended up with the glass filter located under the hood though as it was too large to mount at the pump; works well as I can see I have fuel up to the carbs. Mounting is similar to the Midget example (I think) on the outside of the trunk near the right rear wheel. I think the Plus 2 fuel system is a bit different so this was the easiest pump mounting place in my case. I purchased an extra pump and have it as a spare in the trunk; belt and suspenders I guess. :)

HTH
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PostPost by: prezoom » Wed Jun 13, 2012 3:08 pm

I am using he round Facet pump, mounted to the right side inner fenderwell, on rubber vibration isolators. No drumming from the pump fastened directly to the body. Can only hear it when I first turn on the key, which I like, because I can tell when the float bowls are filled before engaging the starter.

I also carry the smaller square pump as a spare....... just in case....... All wired and plumbed for quick replacement.

I have a fuel filter in the fuel line between the tank and the pump, and a pressure regulator mounted to the front of the right side foot well. Nothing in the way with a LHD car. The fuel line to the carbs is connected directly into the pressure regulator.

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PostPost by: ricarbo » Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:13 pm

Although I still use the mechanical pump, I have a comment which might be useful. A friend of mine has an Austin Metropolitan which suffers from vapour lock, so we have been looking at possible solutions, including an electric pump, but so far, we haven't done this. Enquiries and internet research led us to believe that the Facet pumps were unnacceptably noisy and required a pressure regulator, but Huco make a pump (rather like an updated SU pump) which is offered in either 2.2 or 4.3 psi versions, for around ?50. So far, we haven't fitted one of these, but i thought it might be an option for the elan, which i think needs a pressure in the range of 1.25 to 2.5 psi.
If you have (or add) an oil pressure switch you can wire the pump though a 5 pin relay so that it only runs if you have the ignition on and adequate oil pressure, meaning that if you crash and the engine stops, but the ignition is on, the pump stops, just like the original mechanical set up. If you want, you can add a 'press for on' switch to override this function, to prime the carburettors. If you would like a wiring diagram, with cable colours and sizes, i could post this for you.
Just a thought
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PostPost by: alfert » Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:22 am

I am thinking of a pump and filter assembly that includes a filter. It may fit in the right side fender well along with the retractable antenna. The pump puts out 4 psi., and I am not sure if the webers will be ok with 4 psi?? I think that is still low enough, but not sure. Also could use a simple wiring diagram.
Thanks,
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PostPost by: TroonSprint » Thu Jun 14, 2012 12:45 pm

Following on from my original post about the Facet pump on my MG Midget, I mounted it under the car using rubber between the bracket and the car, and rubber between the pump and the bracket. When I first powered it up it made a barbaric noise, but only until it had filled itself with fuel. Now it makes a soft, regular ticking noise, and once the engine is started it is inaudible, but then the Midget is a noisy little car!

The type is Facet 40104 and the output pressure is 1.5 - 4.0 psi, which gives no problem with the SU carb on the Midget. It cost ?37.43 plus delivery.
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Thu Jun 14, 2012 3:25 pm

Here are a couple of links to Moss with product description & mounting instructions that might be helpful. The same listing will come up under several car models on the Moss site or, as suggested by Mike above, Google on 'Facet 40104' for numerous alternate suppliers. You can also get a screw in filter (shown in the Moss listing). No additional pressure regulation appears to be required with this pump, but then again like Mike's Midget I am running SU's rather than Webers or Strombergs. I find the noise to be moderate with the engine running, same as described for the Midget. I wanted a mounting point below the base of the tank, which is pretty easy in the Plus 2 with the tank located above the diff; different for the Elan I understand.

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/prod ... 77-420.pdf

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProd ... ortOrder=1

http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/facet- ... si-5-p.asp

My pump is mounted on the fibreglass outside the trunk with rubber isolators. Consider using Riv-Nut captive nuts for the mounting or it becomes fussy to tighten the bolts on both sides of the trunk wall.

I added covered spade connectors at the pump wires to facilitate replacement if required. I added the same connectors to my spare pump. Locate the wires first if your install requires drilling the body shell to make the hole as small as possible. Rubber grommet & sealer as required.

The wiring has to include a proper Black ground wire. Might want to pick up a very reliable ground at the rear of the car.

Looking over the various on-line wire colour guides (more correctly BS-AU7a 1983 Colour Code for Vehicle Wiring if you are using Google; there is a copy on this site somewhere as well), I notice they call up White/Green or White/Purple for the fuel pump power wire. Note a White wire body colour generally indicates 'Hot in Run or Start, Unfused'. I used the White/Green wire provided in my after market loom, but added fuse protection. In any case, wiring an electric pump will require running a new dedicated wire to the rear of the car as there will not be provision in the stock loom, so adding in-line fuse protection at the power supply end should be pretty easy. Power to the new wire can be picked up from an appropriate White junction point, perhaps at the fuse box input or ignition switch depending on how you choose to run the wire. In any case, you will not want the pump power running in the accessory setting of the ignition switch (far left key position) or the pump will be running continuously while listening to tunes waiting for your girl. :) I would not recommend powering the fuel pump from the existing Green wires (Hot in Run or Start, Fused) on the stock fuse block output due to its critical function and the potential for dodgy connections in the stock fuse box.

I didn't use a power relay in my setup. The consequence is the fuel pump power is going through the ignition switch. I haven't checked the draw on the fuel pump circuit, but assumed the solid state pump has a pretty modest current requirement. In any case has worked with no problems. I now see in the Moss pdf the pump draw is listed as only 1.6 amps with an in-line fuse recommendation of 3 to 5 amps, which is pretty modest, so I can't see a need to add a power relay to protect the ignition switch.

The shut down relay to the oil pressure sender sounds like a good idea, though I am not sure I would like having another level of complication and additional potential failure points in the fuel pump circuit. This would be relatively easy to add to the Plus 2 with its stock electric oil pressure sender, but I don't think this is included in the stock Elan setup with the capillary oil pressure gauge? At any rate, as Richard says the oil pressure light sender is additional to the stock setup in both cars. Not sure how inertial switches work and didn't use one in my setup, so can't comment/help.

HTH
Stu
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PostPost by: robertverhey » Fri Jun 15, 2012 2:27 am

Yes I like the oil pressure switch option too. I guess the question is, does a twin cam engine cut out when you tip it on it's side, or (worse) tip it upside down? If so, oil pressure switch would give some comfort.

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PostPost by: TroonSprint » Fri Jun 15, 2012 10:17 am

Inertia switches contain a large ball bearing and when the switch is bumped hard such as would occur in a collision, the ball jumps up and knocks off the contacts. I have one on my MGB V8 and on my Midget, and neither has ever switched itself off in normal use. The type on my BV8 has a manual operating switch too, so as it is conveniently mounted behind the passenger seat, I can reach behind and knock it "off" as a security measure. I think it comes from a Range Rover. The one on my Midget is from a Peugeot 205 and has a red button to reset it if it is knocked "off".
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