Unleaded Fuel !!

PostPost by: Good » Mon Nov 29, 2010 7:09 pm

New to Forum . Help and info required
We have a Plus 2 on a F plate which I am in the process of get back on the road.It has been in the garage for about 10 years now on axle stands :oops: It was owned by Father in Law before and has not been converted
I would like to run on Unleaded and would like to know what is required and a best guess on cost and a supplier in Kent if possible.
Thanks in advance
Ian
Last edited by Good on Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: billwill » Mon Nov 29, 2010 10:19 pm

Just do what I do, buy enough of the Redex Unleaded-Fuel Supplement to keep you going for a long time, and add it to the Unleaded at filling time as directed.


One bottle will cover well over 1500 miles, around 5 tank-fulls, I think.

When that stuff became available I found that using it with unleaded fuel was better than the leaded 4-star of that date bringing it up no near 5-star fuel.


http://www.shopwiki.co.uk/Redex+Lead+Re ... l+Additive
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PostPost by: m750rider » Tue Nov 30, 2010 2:04 am

Twincam valve materials are high nickel content stainless steel and pretty durable. Unleaded fuel has very little effect on the their life. You don't have to do anything.

But if you plan on rebuilding the head anyway, take the opportunity to change the seat to a hard nickel/chrome/moly material. I'm in the US so don't have a line on suppliers where you are.
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PostPost by: jono » Tue Nov 30, 2010 8:44 am

Ian,

After 10 years standing chances are that you're going to need at least a new water pump and perhaps a head overhaul anyway so why not go the whole way and have hardened seats fitted while the head is off?

Here are before an after pictures of my head having been removed from the car after a prolonged lay up. The refurbed head has been fitted with new hardened seats, valves, cam bearings etc. - a very good job and all for sensible money.

I can provide the details of my engine guy if you PM me.

Jon
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Tue Nov 30, 2010 1:15 pm

I personally wouldn't bother fitting hardened valve seats - unless the car is intended to be used as a daily driver. However, having said that, if you need to send the head to a specialist to set it up with new valves and shims, then it may be convenient to get the valve seats changed at the same time.

I use a lead additive simply in an attempt to get the octane level up to 101 - for which the engine was designed.
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PostPost by: curly type 26 » Tue Nov 30, 2010 7:05 pm

Google Vulcan engineering, they have moved from Hanwell west london & now just outside brands hatch circuit, down scratchers lane, Ask for Steve Curzon he also has dyno & rolling rd What he does not know about twinks isnt worth knowing. Have known & used them for years & can vouch for the work they do. Curly :D
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PostPost by: nebogipfel » Tue Nov 30, 2010 9:25 pm

Lots of twinks are running around happily on unleaded

That said .....

I use Castrol Valvemaster Plus which is a lead substitute and octane booster and very economical to use .....just in case :wink:
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PostPost by: theelanman » Tue Nov 30, 2010 9:43 pm

nebogipfel wrote:Lots of twinks are running around happily on unleaded

That said .....

I use Castrol Valvemaster Plus which is a lead substitute and octane booster and very economical to use .....just in case :wink:



I was the same.....the std head came with hardend valve seat as standard as I understood it.......and as per any mechanical part theyd need changing at some point....but Id only upgrade when I did a rebuild....I wouldnt make a special point of it for the unleaded situation....
and I also used valvemaster plus every once in a while when I had some...:).....

or just plain old valvemaster with 97ron/octane booster.....

the engine was designed to run on 5 star (105ron/octane IIRC).......that was in the good old days of 2, 3, 4 and 5 star......now its just unleaded and super unleaded.....85ron and 97ron respectively.....so a bit of a boost in 'petrol' performance in nice now and again..:)
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