Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

HI

If U R looking at ignition the high voltage from the coil breaking down the rotor arm to the dizzy body is not unknown. I have had it happen twice on the family hacks. It produced the symptoms you described. But I have usually found that high voltage ignition electric problems get much worse very quickly with total failure usually occuring within a few miles.

Best of luck

Bob

I also assume it is a dirt problem in the fuel lines. I had the same symptoms with my Esprit S2, finally it was a faulty flow-lock valve. This valve should stop the electric fuel pump in case of an accident with overturning. I don?t think it is fittet in the elan, but the failure was just about rust in the valve. Check your tank and fuel lines for rust.

Be very careful if carrying out the test that Higs suggests, as when switching off your ignition and then altering the cars direction, the steering lock will kick in, if you have one fitted.

Simon

Its a good point - as a '68 2+2 owner, I never imagined that such exotic devices existed!

Richard

It is a good point I agree. Someone obviously decided to break my steering lock long ago as I certainly dont have one now. What with the fact you can start it with pretty much anything that fits in a key hole, the early 70's security is second to none! Thanks for the heads up though.

Simon

I hada similar problem a while back, which turned out to be a kink in the nylon fuel hose. The pipe had some slack which, when relaxed by heat from the exhaust, bent and kinked, restricting flow. A bit of fettling to keep the pipe reasonably taut sorted the problem. In the diagnosis phase I checked the tank for crap by looking through the sender unit hole - easy ( if you have low fuel level!), as per the pic.

Jeremy

Having spent years with a suffering elan plus 2 (1969) poor starting, spittiing back throught the webers, uneven idle etc mine eventually wouldn't work.

Initially I thought, dirt, so drainined the tank, new fuel lines, new facet electronic pump, with pressure regulator, high flow filter, stripped and rebuilt carbs. Had an experienced mechanic set them up for me (float levels etc).

Still not sorted, so ignition, added Aldon ignitor ignition, new coil (removed balast). Checked cam timing, reset ingition timing. New distributer cap and rotor arm (old one only 1000 miles old). Fitted alternator (Dave Bean) cleaned every electrical cable and connection in sight. New Plugs and leads. Ran a new positive cable lead to solenoid (extra thick). Pressure tested cylinders. Beteer but still not sorted.

As you can imagine after all that you would expect it to run beautifully, but no. Put a multi meter on the ignition coil and voltage was dropping to 6v on turn over. One possiblility was the starter was tired, but that was only a few thousand miles old.

Eventually I had a eurika moment. When I'd cleaned the earth bolt in the boot (until it shone bright) I hadn't checked the other end.

So here you go, my advice for any plus 2 that starts to run badly, or won't start easily.

1. Open boot, and remove floor pannels.
2. Undo nut that hold the earth to the bolt. Remove locking nut off the same bolt.
3. Get under the car and remove the bolt.
4. Wire brush the bolt until shinny.
5. Get back under car and with a wire brush polish the area where the bolt head touches the chassis and put the bolt back in. Torque to the correct touque. Cover with a layer of Vasoline.
6. Back in the boot, clean the mating surfaces of the nuts until shiny then attach lock nut and tighten
7. Clean earth strap connection and any other earths you have there too.
8. Clamp tightly and add a layer of Vasoline.

Return to drivers seat and start the car. (You may need to run the car to clean out the debris of all the bad running but a few miles should sort it). Sit back and smile in satisfaction, that repair cost nothing, only took 30 minutes and probably made all the difference.

If this doesn't fix it, then check the earth strap between engine and chassis (on one of the engine mounts).

Please learn from my lessons, check the earths (properly) before spending any money.

If the above doesn't fix it, then get ready to start spending money!

My Plus 2 now starts easily runs beautifully and revs like nothing on this earth. Also more power than I've ever experienced in this car. After nearly 10 years of woe, and many thousands spent on bits I have eventually got a car that Chapman intended I'd have.

Happy to answer any questions as I've no doubt encountered most problems.

I know this is a very old post, but I am experiencing very similar problems and would be grateful to know what the answer was to how you solved it.

Kind regards,
Simon Espie.

I would empty the tank and undo the Banjo connection on the Tank Outlet.
Sometimes this gets full of sediment. Then remove connection on inlet at Pump and give the Fuel line a blow through with compressed air. The Fuel Line between the Tank and Pump can tend to collect sediment and this restricts flow to Pump.
The problem with the Fuel Tank on the +2 is that the Outlet is at the bottom where the sediment collects.
Most cars the Fuel Tank outlet is a few milimetres from the bottom and above sediment.
Alan
ps i forgot to ask is your car a +2

Many thanks. No, mine's a Europa Special but with same symptoms, yet all tests proving clear. Baffling.

Be careful if you fit an all metal mechanical fuel pump because replacement ones have too much pressure and will flood the carbs. Best to stay with original glass dome pump.
ps. i visited NZ this year in Feb and March but didn't see a Lotus Europa
Alan

alan.barker wrote:The problem with the Fuel Tank on the +2 is that the Outlet is at the bottom where the sediment collects.
Most cars the Fuel Tank outlet is a few milimetres from the bottom and above sediment.

I wouldn't quite agree with that. When I am removing the tank in my Plus 2, I use the electric fuel pump to empty the tank, until it is clicking "dry"

Then when I remove the drain plug I get a least another half gallon (plus a lot of sediment !)

sespie wrote:Many thanks. No, mine's a Europa Special but with same symptoms, yet all tests proving clear. Baffling.

Is your Europa the Yellow one that was at Southwards in 2013 when i visited
Alan
ps. sorry just checked the one i saw was an early Europa reg: BRC694

Ha - no. Mine's white with gold stripes. 1973 model.
If it was the Southwards open day in Feb/March, I alternate between the Europa and my Interceptor - so if you saw a pale green one, that'll be me.
Going to try swapping the fuel pump today and see if anything happens.