Fuel line replacement

[Marc Nichols]

I would like to replace the "plastic" fuel line in our 1965 S-2 with a aeroquip style stainelss braided hose. Looking at a friends race car, the line traverses two bulkhead holes in the frame. can anyone tell me if this is the standard location for the fuel line and what size the stock holes are/if braided line fits without drilling?

Thanks

[Frank Howard]

Marc,

First of all, replacing the plastic fuel line is one of the most important improvements you can make. The top right side holes in the bulk heads are ideal for running the fuel line because they are away from the road, they line up pretty close to the fuel tank outlet, and the line ends up pretty close to the fuel pump.

You can install Aeroquip stainless braided hose for the small section between the fuel pump inlet and the chassis, but installing it the entire length from the fuel tank is in my opinion silly.

Aeroquip is not rigid, so you will need more than the two bulkhead holes to support it. As an alternative, a length of metal brake line can support itself via the two bukhead holes with no additional support needed, but no one's stopping you from adding a couple of support brackets if you feel you need them. Also, the metal brake line will go through the bulkhead holes with grommets without the need to enlarge them.

If you want to add a piece of Aeroquip between the fuel pump outlet and the carbs, that's your option. In both cases, between the chassis connection and the pump inlet and between the fuel pump outlet and the carbs, a short piece of metal brake line coming out of the pump inlet and outlet can be attached to standard fuel hose to give you the flexability you need between the fuel pump and the chassis connection and the carbs.

The Aeroquip may be more beautiful (not to mention, way more expensive) than metal brake line, but if you run it in the backbone, who's going to see it?

Good luck.

[Marc Nichols]

Thanks Frank. All good points. Mainly, I was unsure if "Aeroquip" would fit through the holes but will consider the solid fuel pipe too.

I have a very original S-2, but the electric pump near the fuel tank is of course, not original. I will be running improved line from the pump to the carbs. Having owned/raced a Europa and a 7, I am familiar with the fire problems incurred with these original Lotus lines and tees.

Thanks again.

[cliveyboy]

I have just replaced the fuel line on my Sprint.
I bought a whole roll of plastic fuel line to replace the original then deceided it was easier to run metal fuel line under the car.
The metal pipe (flexible copper) runs along the underneath of the chassis which has a slight downwards facing lip so the pipe does not protrude.
I then used flexible tube either end.

Clive

[Greg Foster]

I installed an aluminum line on my +2 and s3 elan. On both car I ran the tubing inside of the frame with rubber grommets installed at holes already available in the frame. Parts were available through Summit Racing. 3/8" aluminum line in a 20' coil was unwound and straightened by hand.(I used the Summit brand because it was cheaper but did the same job) Use the compression type hard tube adapters #RUS-639200 or 210 depending on your need. From there you can fit to standard AN-6 fittings and braided hose. IF I were doing it again and didn't already have a good assortment of fittings I would try some of the socketless hoses and fittings. All flexible lines will leak at some point . Summit has a braided textile hose called Twist Tite which still has clean looking fittings and may be the ticket for less cost.
Greg

[cabc26b]

to answer your question, NO

If you still want to use the set up , You will have to enlarge the holes. and I would recomend using bulkhead fittings at both ends and not to run a single lenght of hose because frame might saw the hose over time.

on the concern about sag, this was anticipated by lotus, that's why there is a provision for a p-clip to hold the hose.

I have used non-armored in the back-bone and combinations of armored and non-armored outside.