Weber Spindle Seals
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Hello all,
I refurbished my webers a while ago and renewed the spindle seals (leather) at the same time.
I noticed both carbs were more sluggish to close after fitting these and wonder if this is normal. Will the main return spring bring things back quicker?
I don't think I have over tightened the spindle retaining nuts, in fact when I slacken them right off, the slow return is the same. Can you put too much grease in?
Maybe it's normal, just need to know before I replace the carbs.
Thanks,
Kev.
I refurbished my webers a while ago and renewed the spindle seals (leather) at the same time.
I noticed both carbs were more sluggish to close after fitting these and wonder if this is normal. Will the main return spring bring things back quicker?
I don't think I have over tightened the spindle retaining nuts, in fact when I slacken them right off, the slow return is the same. Can you put too much grease in?
Maybe it's normal, just need to know before I replace the carbs.
Thanks,
Kev.
- KevJ+2
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[quote="KevJ+2"
Maybe it's normal, just need to know before I replace the carbs.Kev.[/quote]
Well before you replace the carbs would it be an option to replace the bearings with the modern sealed pre greased type...........unless you REALLY want originality
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151529983129? ... 1436.l2661
Maybe it's normal, just need to know before I replace the carbs.Kev.[/quote]
Well before you replace the carbs would it be an option to replace the bearings with the modern sealed pre greased type...........unless you REALLY want originality
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151529983129? ... 1436.l2661
Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
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types26/36 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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types26/36 wrote:Well before you replace the carbs would it be an option to replace the bearings with the modern sealed pre greased type...........unless you REALLY want originality
In answer to this, I had no movement on the original bearings and it seemed a lot easier to fit 4 leather washers etc. than change the bearings.
It's not a case of originality, just an easier fix.
- KevJ+2
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Chancer wrote:Did you soak the leather seals in o?l for a week before fitting?
No - I looked up various opinions on this before fitting, using motor bike oil etc. and them rotting etc. I chose to let them absorb the grease (now for a couple of months).
The throttle shafts aren't stiff, just slower to return.
- KevJ+2
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Its been 30 years since I changed some, I'm pleased that they are still available, I have a dim recollection of a similar problem which I cured by softening them with whatever I had to hand in those days.
Were it now I would choose something kind to leather like Lanolin, as you get older and have to put right or do again jobs you did in your youth you get wiser
Were it now I would choose something kind to leather like Lanolin, as you get older and have to put right or do again jobs you did in your youth you get wiser
- Chancer
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oldchieft wrote:Just a question, are the current seals real leather?
Mmmm, well they looked like real leather, they smelt like real leather and they felt like real leather but maybe they came from a Chinese cow - so could have been anything
They had a black sheen finish on one side and natural 'hide' finish on the other and were supposedly genuine Weber parts.
Kev
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There is a group called sidedraft central run by an American gentleman called Keith Franck.
Keith is very knowledgable, and has discussed this topic. I think he recommends something really obscure like mink oil. I expect Keith could help.
Richard Hawkins
Keith is very knowledgable, and has discussed this topic. I think he recommends something really obscure like mink oil. I expect Keith could help.
Richard Hawkins
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I thought I should let you know how I got on.
I removed the leather seals from the carbs and after inspecting them, it was my conclusion that the holes were far too small. They were grabbing the spindle, and the flattened part of the thread (to take the lock tab) was giving the seal a 'key' to try and turn the whole seal. This obviously produced drag on the seals.
The only answer (other than fitting new sealed bearings) was to work them for a while in oil, then open up the holes in the leather to fit snugly on the spindle whilst trying to maintain free movement.
The leather seals are a bit of a crap idea really and I'm surprised that over 40 years later, a better material has not been found.
Thanks for all your replies,
Kev.
I removed the leather seals from the carbs and after inspecting them, it was my conclusion that the holes were far too small. They were grabbing the spindle, and the flattened part of the thread (to take the lock tab) was giving the seal a 'key' to try and turn the whole seal. This obviously produced drag on the seals.
The only answer (other than fitting new sealed bearings) was to work them for a while in oil, then open up the holes in the leather to fit snugly on the spindle whilst trying to maintain free movement.
The leather seals are a bit of a crap idea really and I'm surprised that over 40 years later, a better material has not been found.
Thanks for all your replies,
Kev.
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KevJ+2 wrote:The leather seals are a bit of a crap idea really and I'm surprised that over 40 years later, a better material has not been found.
There is, it's called sealed bearings.
I used sealed bearings and seals, the seals were a tight fit.
If I could not of got them free enough I have binned them and relied on the sealed bearings.
Jon the Chief
- oldchieft
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I have the same problem on a set of webber 45s I rebuilt the butterflies are not closing fully. I just spoke to Eurocarb who supply all the replacement parts for Webber and Dellorto carbs and they confirmed that with the sealed spindle bearings they supply the leather seal is not required.
regards
Andy
regards
Andy
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