40DCOE last number

[oldchieft]

Good day all
I am overhauling my long neglected and smoke kippered carbs.

one done one to do

Can some of the concourse experts tell me how they get the "look" and how do they keep it?
Also I see the last number on the carbs in the posts varies I have seen 18, 2, 151.

If there is a post about this I have not found it. Is the an expert who can explain this? Mine are 2's

carb 1

carb 2

Also some posts say that close numbers are best, is the a reason for this or is it just that it looks tidy?
Mine are 718 apart but I don't think I will lose sleep over it.

Jon the Chief

[gav]

Interesting

Mine are 40DCOE31 with numbers 18376 and 19204. I'd always assumed that the serial numbers didn't matter too much but this assumption isn't supported by any substantive facts.

Gavin

[mbell]

I am not a expert but the number after the DCOE is a version number. Generally the higher the number the newer.

There could be slight design changes between the different version, e.g. the progression hole locations, I think the 151 have air bleed valves that are on the 2's and 18's. Etc.

[pharriso]

"Can some of the concourse experts tell me how they get the "look" and how do they keep it?"

I'd like to know how to get my carbs new looking as well...

P.s. how/why do you have an intake manifold?

[oldchieft]

"Can some of the concourse experts tell me how they get the "look" and how do they keep it?"

I'd like to know how to get my carbs new looking as well...

P.s. how/why do you have an intake manifold?

Hi pharriso
I'm the guy with the Morgan, I am turning my Ford xflow into a twin cam but first I want to get it running to fix all the systems using the old engine before the I pull it out for rebuild.

It has not moved since 2007, when I started it in 2010 it went on fire in my drive.

Jon the Chief

[RichardHawkins]

I suggest you have a look at 'Sidedraft Central' and maybe speak to Keith Franck. From following this group it appears that the last numbers are a reference to the vehicle manufacturer who specified the carburettor for their vehicle.

Richard Hawkins

[Esprit2]

Here are the original factory specs for a 40 DCOE 2. Of course, that may have been changed for your Morgan application, or just through years of tuning.

Model .............. DCOE 40
Style # ............. 2 (ie, 40 DCOE 2)
Weber Part #... 18550.005
Choke .............. 33
Aux. Venturi ..... 4.5
Main Jet .......... 115
Emulsion Tube, F16
Air Corrector ... 150
Pump Jet ......... 35
Idle jet .............. 50F9
Pump Bleed ..... 55
Needle Valve ... 200
Float Level ...... 8.5 / 15 (metal float)
Original App .... Maserati 3500 GT

Regards,
Tim Engel

[casalunge]

To achieve the finish in the attached photo get someone like Gower & Lee to polish them using Fifty 10 Pound notes.

As to serial number's the close to each other (within 100) tend to indicate they were the same batch and likley as not an original pairing.

Whilst I have never seen it on a Certificate of Provenance from the factory for an Elan, factory records from the 60's for the Cosworth engined Lotus 7's fitted with twin Webers normally DCOE 2's recorded the serial numbers on the build sheets.

The 1961 1340 Cosworth 7 below was identified by it Weber serial numbers, its original VIN plate being secreted elsewhere on the car.

[cabc26b]

Sorry if this a repeat , one of the differences is the pump stroke - the 2 have a 14mm pump vs the 18's at 10mm , 31's have a 16mm.

my odd ball set is a pair of 40DCOE48

George

[Galwaylotus]

To achieve the finish in the attached photo get someone like Gower & Lee to polish them using Fifty 10 Pound notes.

If someone doesn't have fifty ?10 notes would ten ?50 notes work?

[Hawksfield]

Hi all

The serial numbers are not significant as all the Elan's that I have seen had various gaps between numbers, it is its unique number only. The number after the DCOE (typo) is significant as this identifies the spec for such as pump strokes, air bleeds, progression holes, etc .I am running DCOE151 ser OE that are the replacement for the DCOE31, these are supposed to be better than the 31's and reduce gasping/hesitation. they work fine for me

[AHM]

If someone doesn't have fifty ?10 notes would ten ?50 notes work?

No! the ?10 notes are much coarser than the ?50's. If the ?50's are used it will take much longer and be far too shiny.

[mark030358]

To get them really clean, drop them into 3 litres of mans best de-greaser aka cellulose thinners and leave them for 4 days, brushing frequently (if it evaporares top it up). Then just brush them down really well. Costs about a tenner, see attached.

cheers

Mark

Elise SC
73 Sprint DHC
69 S4 FHC

[Hawksfield]

Mark

Have you used this method yourself and was it OK as I thought the Weber castings were treated with some sort of clear lacquer

[Esprit2]

Eastwood sells a carburetor paint called "Carb Renew 2". It's translucent, not clear (splitting hairs), and available in silver or bronze. I can't say how the look would compare to a new vintage Weber's look.

Eastwood Underhood Paints:
http://www.eastwood.com/paints/underhood-paints.html

Eastwood "Carb Renew 2" (translucent silver or bronze)
http://www.eastwood.com/carb-renew-2.html

Eastwood 2K Aero-Spray High-Gloss Clear (crystal clear, no tint)
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-a ... clear.html
2-part paint in a 2-chamber aerosol can with mixing nozzle... claims to be the most durable aerosol clear available.

Eastwood Golden Cad System
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-golden-cad-system.html
3-step opaque 'paint' replicates the look of yellow-Cadmium plating used on many vintage American under-hood parts, such as vintage power brake vacuum boosters and reservoir covers. Opaque, not a tinted clear.

All are formulated to survive in an under-hood environment.

Regards,
Tim Engel