Fuel Injection

PostPost by: jono » Wed Aug 26, 2009 9:54 am

Has anyone here done a full bells and whistles FI conversion on a TC? I'm talking Jenveys, wasted spark and ECU, as opposed to a DIY jobbie.

I am definately going this route but wanted to speak with the enlightened - can't decide whethere to but a turnkey conversion such as QED or buy the bits separately and put it together myself :?
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PostPost by: memnon » Wed Aug 26, 2009 10:00 am

I am in the process of doing this.

I don't like the QED system, but Ihave bought some of their parts to make it work. I reas about someone who used it and spent a lot of time tweaking bits of it out!

I'll be running an MBE (915) ECU, Jenveys and wasted spark from a ford coil pack.

I did a lot of hunting around on ECU's before deciding that they are all the same and the only reason to go with one over another is familiarity with the system.

I got a quote from Emerald for a full kit, but he is just too far away from me. His kit is quite comprehensive but there are parts that I don't like - e.g. Fuel pump, is not bad, but better are available for similar money.

Feel free to ask any specific questions, but essentially get the bits and fit them!
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PostPost by: mikealdren » Wed Aug 26, 2009 10:07 am

Hi Memnon,
I'm building a Zetec car but I suspefct many of the issues will be the same. What are your views on the pros and conss of different fuel puimps?

Mike
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PostPost by: jkatthehelm » Wed Aug 26, 2009 10:27 am

Look at this then!!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT
How do the modern systems pick up crank position on the Twink?
J
66 Elan fhc, 72 Elan Plus 2S 130/5, 98 Elise 2.0l Duratec
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PostPost by: memnon » Wed Aug 26, 2009 10:35 am

My information on fuel pumps is that for reliability and consistency Holley currently make the best pumps, Facet aren'ty bad, but they aren't as good as they used to be as the internal spring is weaker since the intorduction of Lead free petrol.

I didn't want one in the tank as it reduces capacity. So I'll just be going with the best pump I can get that has been tried and tested by my engine builder, hence the Holley.

Urgh! That is not for me, bad old days of fuel injection when nobody could make it work!

QED supply a different crank pully and sensor mounting kit - and the problem is solved.
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PostPost by: curly type 26 » Wed Aug 26, 2009 10:42 am

Hi Memmon, going down same route but set mind on emerald ecu, have jenvi 42i throttle bodies, toothed flywheel, injected alloy axminster tank (external pump)ect, what fuel pump are you going to use? :D
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Wed Aug 26, 2009 12:04 pm

I completed a full FI conversion this year with the intention of doing it for ?1000 ? but in reality, it cost nearly double that amount. The items involved are summarised as follows:

? Jenvey throttle bodies with linkage and fuel rail with -6 connections
? Ford wasted spark coil and crank sensor
? New plug leads and NGK (BPR6ES) plugs
? QED toothed crank pulley, fuel pump and diff blanking plates.
? Omex ECU & partial harness
? Sensors -- Water temp. Air temp. Throttle position. Narrow band lambda
? Ally fuel tank made to my own design for submerged fuel pump
? Ford Mondeo fuel pump
? Jaguar ?X? Type fuel filter
? Pressure regulator
? Various -6 connections
? 8mm copper feed and return pipe
? 8mm HP hoses
? Rolling road set-up

My original optomistic estimate did not include a new tank or a top grade ECU, and I completely forgot about the rolling road set-up cost.

Forgot to mention Lambda sensor connector welded to exhaust tee piece and that the tacho needed to be converted to electronic voltage control.
Last edited by bcmc33 on Wed Aug 26, 2009 12:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Brian Clarke
(1972 Sprint 5 EFI)

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PostPost by: tdafforn » Wed Aug 26, 2009 12:17 pm

I was embarking on FI for my +2...
have fitted an Megasquirt, which is plumbed into crank position, wideband 02, water and air temp sensors and currently runs wasted spark ignition through a ford coil pack..
Have also got a set of bike throttle bodies set up on the bench with a manifold fabricated for the twinc.
The project has stalled however as I have another car to work on..
Cheers
tim
PS John Clegg has one running!
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PostPost by: jkatthehelm » Wed Aug 26, 2009 1:25 pm

On a properly fully mapped system, and evenmore so on a pre-emissions non-cat car a lambda sensor can be deleted unless the ECU demands it. The Emerald I use in my Duratec Elise is perfectly happy without, and the car passes the MOT as well.
JK
66 Elan fhc, 72 Elan Plus 2S 130/5, 98 Elise 2.0l Duratec
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PostPost by: curly type 26 » Wed Aug 26, 2009 4:17 pm

Would i be correct in thinking that without the lambda there are no restraints on choice of fuel, leaded or unleaded -boosters ect 8) also what advantage does sequential have or is it not worth the bother
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PostPost by: jkatthehelm » Wed Aug 26, 2009 4:55 pm

You can get leaded????!!! :shock:
Yup that's true, leaded can contaminate both the cat and lambda if fitted.
Early injection systems used neither, needless to say, as both were introduced for emission control, so for an Elan we can keep it simple!
I was tempted to go the injected route on my Zetec Seven, but the cost calculation didn't stack up, and the drivability on Webers was so sorted (pull hard from 1000rpm in top, no fuss on light openings) that there was no incentive, but of course the Twink is cammier than a boggo Zetec so cost vs fuel economy is not the only consideration.
FYI the 7 did 18mpg tops with its original 1.7 Kent and also with the 2.0l Zetec, so you can see why I was tempted buy the lure of 30mpg from injection!
J
66 Elan fhc, 72 Elan Plus 2S 130/5, 98 Elise 2.0l Duratec
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PostPost by: msd1107 » Wed Aug 26, 2009 5:03 pm

I thought one reason for a wide band lambda sensor was so that the system could be mapped for lean mixtures at light throttle openings for better fuel economy and for a stable mixture at idle speeds.

Shouldn't have much of an effect of WOT mapping.

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PostPost by: elansprint » Wed Aug 26, 2009 5:44 pm

The lambda is not in use usually on full throttle openings & with sequential injection it does not produce anymore peak power but does give a better idle & helps with emissions at idle
Ian
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PostPost by: seaandmoor » Wed Aug 26, 2009 6:04 pm

Yes you can do Jenveys with a toothed trigger wheel and Ford sensor on the crankshaft pulley, weld a threaded plug into the exhaust manifold for a wideband sensor, air temp sensor somewhere away from any heat source so that it does actually read air temperature and then a small loom or wires for an EFI Megasquirt and Ford coil packs. Lot cheaper and better than any other system in my opinion.
If you have an older laptop with parallel port (USB's don't work) you can then set your target air fuel ratio and tune it on the road yourself by adjusting the fuel table, injection and spark advance through the whole rev range. You will find the difference beyond all your wildest dreams.

Two other points you MUST use Resistive plugs otherwise they will interfere with the system.
Second it's a glassfibre car and you MUST make absolutely sure that ALL you earths are VERY good. Slightly poor earths will cause problems. Oh and the cable from the crankshaft sensor to the megasquirt must be fully sreened along the whole of it's length.
Good luck
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PostPost by: msd1107 » Wed Aug 26, 2009 6:10 pm

You can get a USB to parallel converter. I use it at work where I interface between my portable USB port to the old HP LJ IV HP gave me back in '91 and is stlll chugging away.

Fry's has them, but there are non-functional Chinese versions available on Ebay also.

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