Winter storage
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How do you prep your twin cam for winter storage?
Thanks
Thanks
- Lotus 50
- Second Gear
- Posts: 129
- Joined: 07 Jan 2012
I drive the car into the garage and turn on the heating. Then periodically, when the weather permits, go for a drive. Then repeat.
Leslie
Leslie
- 512BB
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 24 Jan 2008
- Location: Cambridgeshire, UK
Not a bad idea to leave a tray of mouse bait in the passenger footwell.
I guess it depends what lengths you want to go to. I had a boat and winterising the engine was a major performance. Change the oil, stabiliser in the fuel, fogging oil in the inlets and a squirt of oil down each bore.
Boats are damp, and I guess much of this was to counter a humid environment. In a dry garage, this is probably overkill. I have never bothered to do anything specific to my cars.
Apart from the mouse bait.
I guess it depends what lengths you want to go to. I had a boat and winterising the engine was a major performance. Change the oil, stabiliser in the fuel, fogging oil in the inlets and a squirt of oil down each bore.
Boats are damp, and I guess much of this was to counter a humid environment. In a dry garage, this is probably overkill. I have never bothered to do anything specific to my cars.
Apart from the mouse bait.
68 Elan S3 HSCC Roadsports spec
71 Elan Sprint (still being restored)
32 Standard 12
Various modern stuff
71 Elan Sprint (still being restored)
32 Standard 12
Various modern stuff
- Andy8421
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 27 Mar 2011
- Location: Surrey, UK
If you search on here there is a copy of my winter preparation checklist. Refined over the past 40 years (and 12 days) of ownership such that the car gets laid up before the salt goes on the road, and then is ready for immediate use come spring, hopefully with a full season without repairs being necessary.
I’ll see if I can track it down (I’m not currently at home so I haven’t got access to the original)
I’ll see if I can track it down (I’m not currently at home so I haven’t got access to the original)
Martin
72 Sprint DHC
72 Sprint DHC
-
M100 - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 768
- Joined: 16 Sep 2003
- Location: Yorkshire
Originally posted by me here in February 2003, but this isn’t my current version
https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8259&f=16&start=0&sid=678b8a4d8a19a7fa57b44f6e8e22997a#p34086
Mid October take car for MOT
Go for one last drive on a dry day to empty fuel tank as much as
possible
Last week in October cash in 12 months road tax (cheaper to get 12
months rather than 6)
Pressure wash underneath.
Wax body and chrome
Vacuum inside
Remove any rubbish from boot
Jack up put on axle stands
Change brake fluid
Contemplate changing clutch fluid and put it off yet again
Rag soaked in WD40 wiped over all metal parts.
Squirt all rubber bits (door seals, boot seals, bushes,
rotoflexes,lotocones, rack gaiters) with silicone spray.
Wheels off.
Brake pistons retracted
WD40 wiped on discs.
Trunnions oiled
Tyres checked for stones, nails etc
Wheels cleaned and waxed
Tyres pumped up to 40psi.
Wheels back on
Run until engine hot
Kill fuel supply with cutoff valve until engine dies
Oil change
Filter change
Crank to get oil pressure
Oil down bores, turn over by hand a few times
Outboard motor vaporising oil aerosol down the dipstick hole, through
the oil filler cap and down the carb throats
Exhaust blocked with oily rag
Air filter blocked with oily rag
Fan belt slackened
Wipers held off screen with small wooden blocks
Gearbox in gear
Clutch jammed down with mark 1 clutch depression device (bit of wood)
Battery maintainer connected
Car back on floor
Make absolutely sure handbrake is off
Leave bonnet popped
Close garage door
Leave for 5-6 months to mature:
Each month.
Ensure car is rolled back and forth a few feet
Rotate water pump and engine by hand
Steering on lock and back
Operate all electrics especially windows
Operate heater and bonnet release cables
Operate headlamp vacuum valve
Don't start engine
In spring:
Retension fan belt
5 gallons of new fuel in tank
Rags removed from air filter and exhaust
Fit new air filter
Clutch depressor removed
Check clutch releases properly
Remove plugs, turn over on starter to build up oil pressure
Plugs in
Fuel tap on
Connect jumpstart battery
Start
Drive up and down drive
Check for unusual noises and leaks
Tyres back to normal pressures
Slap on new road tax disc.
Drive for 6 months then repeat from beginning.
https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8259&f=16&start=0&sid=678b8a4d8a19a7fa57b44f6e8e22997a#p34086
Mid October take car for MOT
Go for one last drive on a dry day to empty fuel tank as much as
possible
Last week in October cash in 12 months road tax (cheaper to get 12
months rather than 6)
Pressure wash underneath.
Wax body and chrome
Vacuum inside
Remove any rubbish from boot
Jack up put on axle stands
Change brake fluid
Contemplate changing clutch fluid and put it off yet again
Rag soaked in WD40 wiped over all metal parts.
Squirt all rubber bits (door seals, boot seals, bushes,
rotoflexes,lotocones, rack gaiters) with silicone spray.
Wheels off.
Brake pistons retracted
WD40 wiped on discs.
Trunnions oiled
Tyres checked for stones, nails etc
Wheels cleaned and waxed
Tyres pumped up to 40psi.
Wheels back on
Run until engine hot
Kill fuel supply with cutoff valve until engine dies
Oil change
Filter change
Crank to get oil pressure
Oil down bores, turn over by hand a few times
Outboard motor vaporising oil aerosol down the dipstick hole, through
the oil filler cap and down the carb throats
Exhaust blocked with oily rag
Air filter blocked with oily rag
Fan belt slackened
Wipers held off screen with small wooden blocks
Gearbox in gear
Clutch jammed down with mark 1 clutch depression device (bit of wood)
Battery maintainer connected
Car back on floor
Make absolutely sure handbrake is off
Leave bonnet popped
Close garage door
Leave for 5-6 months to mature:
Each month.
Ensure car is rolled back and forth a few feet
Rotate water pump and engine by hand
Steering on lock and back
Operate all electrics especially windows
Operate heater and bonnet release cables
Operate headlamp vacuum valve
Don't start engine
In spring:
Retension fan belt
5 gallons of new fuel in tank
Rags removed from air filter and exhaust
Fit new air filter
Clutch depressor removed
Check clutch releases properly
Remove plugs, turn over on starter to build up oil pressure
Plugs in
Fuel tap on
Connect jumpstart battery
Start
Drive up and down drive
Check for unusual noises and leaks
Tyres back to normal pressures
Slap on new road tax disc.
Drive for 6 months then repeat from beginning.
Martin
72 Sprint DHC
72 Sprint DHC
-
M100 - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 768
- Joined: 16 Sep 2003
- Location: Yorkshire
Set the mouse traps.
Fill with fuel.
Change wheels to an old "not for the road" set.
Run car up and down drive every month to keep brakes and clutch free.
Fill with fuel.
Change wheels to an old "not for the road" set.
Run car up and down drive every month to keep brakes and clutch free.
- elanman999
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 515
- Joined: 12 Nov 2005
- Location: N Yorks
Don't bother,
drive it all year that's what they're for.
In the dry of course.
I know someone with a XK140 and an E Type both "Trailer Queens".
Alan
drive it all year that's what they're for.
In the dry of course.
I know someone with a XK140 and an E Type both "Trailer Queens".
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 06 Dec 2008
- Location: BRITTANY FRANCE
In the dry of course? What? There’s nowt to rust on it!
Well, not after zinc primer plus 2 coats of tough paint.
Not for a while anyway!
I’d clear out the front turrets and oil the trunnions.
Well, not after zinc primer plus 2 coats of tough paint.
Not for a while anyway!
I’d clear out the front turrets and oil the trunnions.
-
JonB - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2469
- Joined: 14 Nov 2017
- Location: South Herefordshire
I prefer to put the mouse traps outside of the elan. If it's in the elan they'll find a way in. Usually by chewing...
Scott
45/9011
Hawkestone, On, Ca
45/9011
Hawkestone, On, Ca
- snowyelan
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 503
- Joined: 14 Sep 2003
- Location: Hawkestone, Ontario, Canada
Mouse-proofing a garage is hard work, mouse traps are single use things which need checking daily so now I've got a couple of bait stations by the doors. Fill once, check every couple of weeks.
I thought these were working well, no sign of mice droppings on the cars until one year when I pulled the Elan out and tipped the drivers seat forward to vac the carpets. Sitting there was a pile of blue mouse bait, I'd guess it was most of what had been in one of the bait stations.
Obviously a mouse had decided to make his/her own little store for winter but on the plus side there were no dead bodies or damage to the carpet/seats/etc.
Brian
I thought these were working well, no sign of mice droppings on the cars until one year when I pulled the Elan out and tipped the drivers seat forward to vac the carpets. Sitting there was a pile of blue mouse bait, I'd guess it was most of what had been in one of the bait stations.
Obviously a mouse had decided to make his/her own little store for winter but on the plus side there were no dead bodies or damage to the carpet/seats/etc.
Brian
-
UAB807F - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 736
- Joined: 20 Dec 2010
- Location: Lincolnshire
The main point is keeping the mice out, so here is my take on it, never underestimate your little four legged enemy, they are very resourceful, I mean whoelse would chew rubber, cable insulation, carpet etc.
1. Use a strong powerful light
2. Place light in footwell after removing carpets or prop against bulkheads, or get a friend to assist
3. Turn off garage lights and close door
4. Slide under the car and look for any signs of the light, it may be very weak if it is trying to penetrate those other
carpeted areas, so check carefully
5. Repeat for all footwells and boot areas, top of turrets etc
6. Place lamp around the bulkhead from up behind the dash and from the engine bay side of the bulkhead,
especially where cables pass through and around the steering column, don't forget the wheelarches
7. Where the light can be seen is likely one of the places mice can get through, they can climb the tyres to get
within reaching distance of some holes/gaps and are pretty acrobatic
8. Use a silicone sealer to fill the smaller holes. For the larger holes use expanded foam which can be trimmed
for neatness once hardened and then painted over if necessary
9. Repeat light search all over again to check you have got all holes/gaps covered.
I had a mouse problem at one house we had and called in the pest guys to sort it. What surprised me was when one of them pulled out a pencil and said mice can constrict their bodies down to this level which is how they get into places we think impossible, a lesson learned !
Tony
1. Use a strong powerful light
2. Place light in footwell after removing carpets or prop against bulkheads, or get a friend to assist
3. Turn off garage lights and close door
4. Slide under the car and look for any signs of the light, it may be very weak if it is trying to penetrate those other
carpeted areas, so check carefully
5. Repeat for all footwells and boot areas, top of turrets etc
6. Place lamp around the bulkhead from up behind the dash and from the engine bay side of the bulkhead,
especially where cables pass through and around the steering column, don't forget the wheelarches
7. Where the light can be seen is likely one of the places mice can get through, they can climb the tyres to get
within reaching distance of some holes/gaps and are pretty acrobatic
8. Use a silicone sealer to fill the smaller holes. For the larger holes use expanded foam which can be trimmed
for neatness once hardened and then painted over if necessary
9. Repeat light search all over again to check you have got all holes/gaps covered.
I had a mouse problem at one house we had and called in the pest guys to sort it. What surprised me was when one of them pulled out a pencil and said mice can constrict their bodies down to this level which is how they get into places we think impossible, a lesson learned !
Tony
- tonyabacus
- Third Gear
- Posts: 396
- Joined: 16 Sep 2003
- Location: Cornwall
Yep, they are annoyingly inventive at getting into places you'd never dream of. We're rural so they comes with the territory and we've tried all sorts, the bait stations being the best to date.
When we had a campervan it would stand for long periods, especially over winter and checking it one day I found a hole in the gear lever gaiter. The van was based on a Fiat Ducato so the shift lever is at dash height but it seems that mice had clambered up the cables from the gearbox and chewed through the vinyl.
I ended up pulling out the dash as well because they'd got behind & chewed the wiring insulation, bits of coloured plastic lying in the footwell.
I used to think they were cute cuddly things.... not any more !
When we had a campervan it would stand for long periods, especially over winter and checking it one day I found a hole in the gear lever gaiter. The van was based on a Fiat Ducato so the shift lever is at dash height but it seems that mice had clambered up the cables from the gearbox and chewed through the vinyl.
I ended up pulling out the dash as well because they'd got behind & chewed the wiring insulation, bits of coloured plastic lying in the footwell.
I used to think they were cute cuddly things.... not any more !
-
UAB807F - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 736
- Joined: 20 Dec 2010
- Location: Lincolnshire
I use mouse traps all through the year, they just cannot resist peanut butter.
They get the cheap super market stuff though!
They get the cheap super market stuff though!
- elanman999
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 515
- Joined: 12 Nov 2005
- Location: N Yorks
Try driving your Elan in the Snow great fun.
Always remember driving from London to Waterlooville down the A3 as far as "the Devil's Punch Bowl" where A3 blocked by deep Snow. Then i took country Lanes down through Villages.
Good job i had a full Tank of Petrol 2nd and 3rd gear to keep revs up with the Generator.
Otherwise with all the Electrics flat Battery.
1970 +2 S good balance and delicate drive singing to myself. Drive took around 4 hours.
Alan
Always remember driving from London to Waterlooville down the A3 as far as "the Devil's Punch Bowl" where A3 blocked by deep Snow. Then i took country Lanes down through Villages.
Good job i had a full Tank of Petrol 2nd and 3rd gear to keep revs up with the Generator.
Otherwise with all the Electrics flat Battery.
1970 +2 S good balance and delicate drive singing to myself. Drive took around 4 hours.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
- alan.barker
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Location: BRITTANY FRANCE
Ha ha, that takes me back to when my first car was my Sprint, and daily driver. So if it snowed, off I would go, to work, very carefully. Those conditions taught you how to handle the car properly. Great fun.
Leslie
Leslie
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