Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

I have a Lumenition system on my car and will need to rebuild it.
Just before I do I was wondering if anyone has feedback on this type of unit:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133107094803 ... 1438.l2649

They seem very good value if they work!

Cheers
Ed

Or:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112656893820 ... SwehZaGVEU

You get the idea!

Steer clear, they do not have the correct mechanical advance even if they claim they do. I bought a distributor like this and won't ever put one in any engine of mine.

How a seller can say one item is good for either pre crossflow, crossflow and Lotus Twincam all in one advert is beyond me and shows a distinct lack of knowledge of advance curves and specific engine requirements.

Use an original distributor, or get it refurbed, but don't buy anything from anyone other than Distributor Doctor, H&H, Aldon or Bestek.

I will say that the Accuspark electronic ignition module on its own has served me well even though I've heard other people claim they are no good.

These are a much better option:

https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/warehou ... 56952.html

If you are planning a deviation from standard, an even better option!

https://trigger-wheels.com/store/conten ... /p100.html

I did the 3d mappable ignition thing on my last Plus 2 and it worked well, using an EDIS, crank sensor and Megajolt with a TPS on the carbs - trigger wheels supplied much of the kit for me.

However it's a lot of work to get right and so I will be going down the 123 route this time - I used one on a 2.0l Alfa Nord motor and it transformed it. It's also pretty much 'invisible' for the purists.

Many thanks all, I figured it was too good to be true!
It will be a while until I need to decide!! but I now have a much better idea!
Thanks again
Ed

Just replaced a lumenition with a pertronix. Ive put in about 40 of them and had very little trouble. They are magnetic.

Are luminiton any good?
I can re use mine with £20 of bits.

FWIW I tried one of these low cost distributors a few years back .
Supplied with wrong distributor cap - top entry as opposed to side entry
Rotor arm hit the pillars in the cap.
Massive end-float on the spindle.
It was returned to supplier.
My current arrangement is the standard original distributor which has been fitted with Magnetronic 'contact breaker replacement' which for road use anyway works just fine.
HTH

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought most, if not all, of the electronic ignitions except Luminition occupied some of the space required for the rev limiting rotor?

I say keep it original using points in an original spec distributor ...so simple and easy and so very much less hassle!
There are oh so many threads found on here with guys chasing ignition faults due to previously fitted duff electronic conversions!

Alan.

alanr wrote:I say keep it original using points in an original spec distributor ...so simple and easy and so very much less hassle!
There are oh so many threads found on here with guys chasing ignition faults due to previously fitted duff electronic conversions!

Alan.

Points aren't great, particularly for cars that don't get used that often. They wear, corrode, and generally require ongoing maintenance. Not ideal if the distributor is hidden under the front carb. My first 'go to' when trying to find why an old car has no spark is to give the points a clean.

Having said that, points generally don't fail once the car is running, and very rarely strand you by the side of the road. Adjusting the points also reminds you to put a couple of drops of oil down the distributor shaft which is inclined to get ignored with an electronic system.

alanr wrote:I say keep it original using points in an original spec distributor ...so simple and easy and so very much less hassle!
There are oh so many threads found on here with guys chasing ignition faults due to previously fitted duff electronic conversions!

Alan.

+1. Note the best electronic systems for spark energy are the HEI types that the OEMS used. The 123 distributor is a tricky gadget but how often are you going to need to adjust the ignition curve? Once set properly you shouldn't need to change it again unless you change the cams. You can do that with a mechanical system.

The service interval for checking and adjusting the points used to be every 5,000 miles. How long does it take you to do 5,000 miles in your hardly used classic?

Probably me being 'old school' but having spent literally hours attempting to start, get running properly, stuck at the roadside engines fitted with Pertronix, Lumenition et al and all the other so called wonderful electronic distributors I will always stick by my thinking that for classic cars that have little or only periodic use, good quality points in original spec distributor is the way to go.
The above of course assumes the engine is in standard spec. If going for a tuned race engine then that is of course a different ball game.

Alan.