Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

My engine will be back from its re-build shortly and I have a couple of questions around getting it back in. (Plus 2S)

It will have been dyno'd so will come back fairly well assembled, with carbs (Stombergs) already on - can I leave them on or would it be easier with them off? Hoping I can leave them on.

On the other side - is it possible to drop the engine in with the exhaust manifolds already on? They were a b**ch to remove when the engine was in (or half out) the car. The Engine mounts seemed to be the main obstacle in preventing them from being manoeuvred out; I wondered if it would be possible to leave the mounts off until the engine, complete with carbs and manifolds is hanging more or less in situ and just slip the mounts in then.

The gearbox is still in the car and I understand the final mating between the block and bell-housing can be time consuming, so preparing myself for that!

Any tips/advice / do's/don'ts much appreciated.

Cheers,
Andy

I have never done it but I think you may have trouble getting the exhaust past the LH chassis bracket for the engine mount while aligning the engine and gearbox especially if you have the tubular exhaust manifold. You should be able to leave the carbs on but it makes it much harder to hook up the starter and fuel pump and RH engine mount so I would remove them. If careful you should be able to remove and replace without upsetting their settings

cheers
Rohan

rgh0 wrote:I have never done it but I think you may have trouble getting the exhaust past the LH chassis bracket for the engine mount while aligning the engine and gearbox especially if you have the tubular exhaust manifold. You should be able to leave the carbs on but it makes it much harder to hook up the starter and fuel pump and RH engine mount so I would remove them. If careful you should be able to remove and replace without upsetting their settings

cheers
Rohan

Thanks Rohan. I have the 2 piece manifold - if re-fitting them with the engine already in the car is it best to feed them in from the top or bottom and in 2 separate pieces or, (as far as possible), with them already intertwined and joined onto their bottom Y section?

Hi Andy,
You can certainly fit the engine mounts after installing the engine. In fact I have just changed mine over side to side after doing it wrong, don`t ask. It helped to have the rope slings out of the way with the engine supported on jacks.
You may have to remove the front carburettor at least. With my Webers they have to be removed together.
Assuming you have a similar tubular exhaust manifold as mine I do not think you will manage with them attached.
There is insufficient space to fit the bolts into the bell housing and the lower horizontal part of the tubes may not pass the bell housing.
You may have to tie them up dangling in position but moveable for access.
I managed to fit the tubes after engine installation and before fitting mounts, but I have replaced the studs with Allen screws to give more access. Even then it was not easy.
It takes longer than it should.
Best of luck
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC

I fit the exhaust manifolds from the bottom with the LH engine mount removed individually and bolt them in place and then fit the Y piece. You can fit the manifold in the location behind the LH engine mount tied against the chassis when fitting then engine and then bolt them into place on the engine also.

cheers
Rohan

rgh0 wrote:I fit the exhaust manifolds from the bottom with the LH engine mount removed individually and bolt them in place and then fit the Y piece. You can fit the manifold in the location behind the LH engine mount tied against the chassis when fitting then engine and then bolt them into place on the engine also.

cheers
Rohan

That last suggestion sounds like it would avoid some complicated threading - worth a try. thanks Rohan
Andy.

Hi Andy,
I have just noticed that your car is a Plus 2. Many of my comments may not apply to that model as you may have more working space.
Cheers
Eric

ericbushby wrote:Hi Andy,
I have just noticed that your car is a Plus 2. Many of my comments may not apply to that model as you may have more working space.
Cheers
Eric

possibly Eric, but as Rohan mentioned too, I like your idea about tying them up so they are dangling more or less in position, but still moveable.

The Strombergs can be installed before putting in the engine - much easier getting everything bolted up properly, and they are not in the way during install at all (at least on an LHD). If using the mechanical fuel pump, that might be easier installed first, too. Installing the starter with the carbs in place is not impossible, but you do need the right combination of socket extensions to reach the top bolt in particular. Below is a picture of mine going in so you can see what I had installed.

The exhaust manifold is a different story, but as Rohan suggested getting it in position is not really a problem if you do it with the motor mount not installed.

I have changed the exhaust studs for Allen screws. I leave the engine support in position then fit the exhaust from above before fitting the engine mounts, this allows you to wiggle the engine a bit to get the exhaust in. It’s relatively simple to then fit the engine mounts, but I’ve always had the carbs off when installing the engine. It’s easier to connect the fuel line to the pump and connect the starter. Make sure you carefully centre the clutch plate if the gearbox is already in, it’s a real pig to mate the two if the clutch plate is not perfectly centred. Don’t forget the plate between the engine and bell housing! Don’t ask how I know!

@SENC
Sorry to veer off topic a bit, but what paint did you use for your sump?
At least on my screen, it appears to be near-perfect for the grey/blue-ish color said to be the "original".
Many thanks if you have any info on color, brand, or source. Looking for something available in states, ideally, of course.
Oh, I see you are in the States, it appears.
Cheers, Jay

Thanks everyone for your help, I got a set of poly bushes from Paul Matty and because they have a flange at each end that sits outside the droplink housing, they 'fill the gap' in the chassis mounting so nothing can move laterally, or at least not much. The flanges do make it challenging to press in, but for anyone else doing it - note that one of the flanges on each poly bush is slightly chamfered on the leading edge to aid fitting.

It re-installed now and looks much better that what came out!.

S2Jay wrote:@SENC
Sorry to veer off topic a bit, but what paint did you use for your sump?
At least on my screen, it appears to be near-perfect for the grey/blue-ish color said to be the "original".
Many thanks if you have any info on color, brand, or source. Looking for something available in states, ideally, of course.
Oh, I see you are in the States, it appears.
Cheers, Jay

I'll look back, but suspect it was a POR15 color, likely an engine enamel.

Great, thanks for the follow-up info. I thought that POR 15 only did a few basic colors, but I have since found what must be a later color chart & it does show a number of other colors. However, I still don't see one in that chart that looks like the grey/blue-ish shade [at least on my screen]. The search continues....

S2Jay wrote:Great, thanks for the follow-up info. I thought that POR 15 only did a few basic colors, but I have since found what must be a later color chart & it does show a number of other colors. However, I still don't see one in that chart that looks like the grey/blue-ish shade [at least on my screen]. The search continues....

I couldn't find it in my POR orders, either, and I don't seem to have any of what I used left. Search for a massey ferguson gray, rustoleum I think - that is the other memory bouncing around in my head.