Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

Hi all

Unfortunately , my 701 block has cracks due to a conrod failure and my machining specialist think it's not a good way to use it...
We can see the conrod impact and cracks in cast iron until (or close to) cam bearing





I would like to know what blocks alternatives refs can i use and easy find (in france...)
Are valencia blocks (ford kent with front wheel drive cars) should be usable ?

or maybe this on ?
https://www.leboncoin.fr/equipement_auto/1903576896.htm

thanks
aurelien

Those cracks aren't really in a structural part of the engine block. The cracks can be prevented from becoming worse by inserting threaded plugs to seal the crack (metal stitching process). This process is commonly used to repair cracked cast iron cylinder heads. The Valencia block although a cousin of the Kent cannot be used because it is shorter and the main bearing sizes are different.

As far as I know Valencia blocks don’t have the side engine mounts so would be a non starter
You can get brand new ford blocks of the right spec now. Not cheap but probably the safest route.

yes I have seen new blocks on QED motorsport for example but it cost 1800pounds + shipping + reboring...and Im' not sure main caps are included and lined

i'm looking for a cheaper way

About 5 years ago my son, who also lives in France, got a used 711 block and pistons from Len Selby, at Historicracing.org.uk . Very helpful, and the price was right. Worth a try maybe? I see he's advertising an L block at 850GBP.

Might be worth a call to Nick Stagg in Bristol. 01454 323130,
He's a well known Twincam tuner, and often builds engines for racers using new blocks. He might have a good s/h one kicking around.

mini90 wrote:
I would like to know what blocks alternatives refs can i use and easy find (in france...)
Are valencia blocks (ford kent with front wheel drive cars) should be usable ?

or maybe this on ?
https://www.leboncoin.fr/equipement_auto/1903576896.htm

thanks
aurelien

Hello,

You could use the one at leboncoin.fr but you will need a different oil pickup pipe, and you will need to modify your sump (only slightly) to allow it to fit. You could transfer your existing crank into this block - you may need to slightly grind the crank case (nothing to worry about) to allow the crank to clear at the corners of the block.

It would be worth finding out what condition the block is in, what size the main bearing bore is, and also what the current size pistons are / were (ie bore size).

It's a bit expensive for just a block though - in the UK they sometimes sell for less than £100 so the price would be the issue for me if I was looking to replace a damaged block. The advert states that it is a complete engine(?) but doesn't show a complete engine or mention anything about the other bits!

Most 1500 pre crossflow engine blocks will work - some needing more work than others - these will come from mk1 cortinas, some early mk2 cortinas, 1500 corsairs (ie not 2000e or 1700 as they're V4 engines) and Consul Capri 1500gt.

thanks for all

i have call the seller and he has to give me several informations

I have to modify the oil pick up because it's an engine with rear bowl sump ?

In my opinion that block is quite saveable and worth doing especially if it's original to the car. You'll decrease the value of the car it's in if it's the original block and you replace it. Depends how far the cracks penetrate but from the picture it doesn't look to be in a structural area. There's no load on cam bearings in a Twin Cam

mini90 wrote:thanks for all

i have call the seller and he has to give me several informations

I have to modify the oil pick up because it's an engine with rear bowl sump ?

Your 701m block has a push-in oil pick-up pipe, the block on sale is a screw-in pick-up pipe. They sit in a slightly different position in the sump (but - the screw-in pipe sits centrally, the push in one sits slightly to one side - so the sump baffles are in slightly the wrong place). It's nothing dramatic to solve though - removing some spot welds and swapping the baffles. Actually the screw-in pick-up sits in the best position in the sump. Both can be made to work with front or rear bowl sump if need be.

The only step backwards for you may be that the block on sale has round main bearing caps - however, if only building a fast road engine these will be fine. If you intend on building a race engine then you could have square or steel caps fitted but they will need to be line-bored to do so.

Is the block for sale definitely 1500? I can't quite read the numbers on the side of the block so can't say for sure, although it looks like it is the correct bock height for a 1500.

I have ask to the seller the engine number and block height to be sure and i will advise

Thanks for all your comments