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cylinder liners

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2020 4:01 am
by street
My engineer has just informed me I need 2 su4027 liners. Do you know who in the UK is reliable and will not charge silly money.
Thanks

Re: cylinder liners

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2020 4:50 am
by 2cams70
SU4027 is a Hepolite part number and Hepolite is now a defunct company.
Westwood do a reproduction version. The "thin wall" liners from QED are probably equivalent also but not sure 100%. Get used to the fact that nothing of quality comes cheap with Lotus Twin Cams!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Lotus-T ... xyNepRnLAL

Re: cylinder liners

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2020 8:23 am
by rgh0
street wrote:My engineer has just informed me I need 2 su4027 liners. Do you know who in the UK is reliable and will not charge silly money.
Thanks


Why do you need liners versus just boring oversize ? Has your engineer done any thickness testing on your block to see what can be accommodated especially with offset boring. In NZ it may be cheaper to find an old Cortina block if they still exist in the scrap yards there rather than putting liners in a block.

In general if you can actually bore a block to safely fit liners you can also safely rebore the block larger and not need liners.

cheers
Rohan

Re: cylinder liners

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2020 8:53 am
by street
Rohan,

thanks however, mine was oversized a long ti me ago as it was apparently used as a pace car, with lotus stamped over sized pistons. We put it back to standard some time ago. I going down liner route as pot 4 ate piston ring, piston is fine, so engineer is keeping 4 pistons as standard and I avoid having to pay for 4 new pistons.

FYI, Im using Paramount Engineering in Auckland who come highly recommended and it is a struggle to get in the queue.

Re: cylinder liners

PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2020 9:47 am
by rgh0
If looking at replacing a linered block liners due to damage to an existing liner then if you want to keep the block that is normally the only option.

Replacing the block with a 120E block from an old Cortina from a wreckers yard in NZ may be more economical. I build all my race engines from old Cortina 120E blocks that I collected cheap before they became scarce from wreckers in Australia :D There is no difference between an L block and a normal Cortina block in terms of casting wall thickness means and tolerances apart from the "L" in the casting despite all the BS written on the Web about the superior strength and suitability for over boring of the "L" blocks and various other casting numbers compared to the most common 120E blocks. I have measured up many blocks and find no significant statistical difference.

The new Ford motorsport blocks fall into the same tolerance band but the few I have measure just have a narrower wall thickness range about the same mean thickness so all are good for 83.5 mm but none would go to 85 mm like some 120E blocks I have would.

If I had a linered block I would measure the remaining wall thickness behind the sleeve as well as the sleeve thickness before I decided to do any major work on it, as linering blocks correctly is not simple. To little wall thickness behind the sleeve can lead to the support metal behind the liner cracking and then the liner itself cracking where it is not properly support.

cheers
Rohan