Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

A couple of weeks ago I decided to replace my Dave Bean starter motor that has been in my car since 1984. I bought a new one from Classic Car Performance and after I installed it (took me hours) and started the car I got this strange noise, I make a video and put it on YouTube (https://youtu.be/dkD0m0BbtdY). To me, it sounds like something external is rubbing or making contact with something(?). I removed the fan belt, but the noise is still there so it is not coming from the alternator, and I have an electric water pump so it is not the stock WP.
Yesterday I removed the new starter and I can not see any signs of it interfering with anything.
I'm at a loss, anyone have any ideas?
Thanks,
Mr.G

You may have to reinstall the old starter (or just a different starter) and run it again.
That will determine whether or not the new starter is at fault.

Is it a continually engaged starter ?

richardcox_lotus wrote:Is it a continually engaged starter ?

I didn't know there was such a thing?

Both my old and new starter have a built in solenoid. which when activated pushes the pinion into the ring gear. When the power to the solenoid is off the pinion retracts back into the starter.
Thanks,
Gale

gjz30075 wrote:You may have to reinstall the old starter (or just a different starter) and run it again.
That will determine whether or not the new starter is at fault.

I agree, but it is a bitch installing one. I do have an old standard Bendix starter I could try. I switched from positive ground to negative, will the Bendix starter spin the same direction?
Thanks,
Gale

Hi Gale, from the video you can hear what sounds like a continuous metal on metal sliding contact.

Is it possible the upper or lower back plate got bent and is touching the flywheel?

Iain

Yes, the Bendix starter will spin in the same direction. I switched my 67 Coupe from positive to
negative ground and used the same starter.

sprintsoft wrote:Hi Gale, from the video you can hear what sounds like a continuous metal on metal sliding contact.

Is it possible the upper or lower back plate got bent and is touching the flywheel?

Iain

yes, or something that would have got into in the bell housing and become stuck sliding against the flywheel?

Today I removed the new starter and replaced it with my old Bendix starter. The strange noise is gone. With all the decades I've worked on care, this is the strangest issue I've ever seen. I emailed Classic Car Performance and asked fora refund or a replacement (I'm not sure I want one(?)). I hope they stand behind their products without a big hassle.
Thanks to everyone for all your help, I very much appreciate it.

Gale

I am curious as to why you removed the Bean starter in the first place. Mine is the same age as yours, has been flawless.

elancoupe wrote:I am curious as to why you removed the Bean starter in the first place. Mine is the same age as yours, has been flawless.

And here is the reason. It is impossible to get a wrench on the top bolt so I was using a set screw. The way I tighten it was using the tool I made with a long extension. With this combination, it was difficult to get the set screw tight. Therefore, after a couple of months, it would loosen up and the starter would not engage. Retightening the set screw was a real pain in the ass ( I bought the starter in 1984) and after this last time, I decided to make a change. My objective was to install the starter and never worry about it again. That didn't work out very well. The attached photos are not in the order but it should give you an idea of the problem I was having with the Bean starter.

Gale

Interesting, mine has never come loose.

Agreed, it is difficult to access the top bolt. I use a dome head Allen bolt, tightened with an extended bondhus head socket with a long extension.

I hope I didn’t just jinx myself.

I've replaced the upper starter motor bolt with a stud to simplify starter motor removal and refit.

The starter motor can be 'hung' off this stud, the other bolts fitted and a nyloc used on the stud. The stud is loctited in to prevent it unscrewing when removing the nyloc.

A simple solution to what used to be a real pain of a job.