Well, I've done my best. I followed your suggestions and at one point had hope that I would get a result. The H/C dash lever aligned with the the right most position on the dash slot. Pulling the dash lever over towards the HOT end, it stopped before reaching the LHS of the slot. (See Pic) I released the outer cable clamp and pulled the lever over till it reached the LHS of the dash slot. The outer cable now was over the lever quadrant (see pic). This where I thought I might get a result. All I had to do was cut a bit off the outer cable (see pic) and the dash lever would then be able to move all the way to the LHS, i.e. HOT position. All to no avail. Securing the outer cable to the original position, so that it didn't run over the quadrant and once again the dash stopped before the end of full travel. So I've accepted failure and decided to adjust the whole thing to position the Dash lever so it is more or less sits in the middle of the dash slot. (See pics). Checking the flap lever movement, it is still 25mm (see pic). So I'm pretty sure that its the fact that the flap is not moving the full distance when compared to yours. We've ruled out foam so the only other thing I can think of is that the flap was somehow twisted and one corner is hitting the frame earlier and hence not making full travel. However, I've looked at my dismantled heater pictures and it looks pretty flat. and I'm the sort of sad person that if I saw it twisted I'd have endeavoured to straighten it, and I don't remember doing that. So it's a mystery. I'm frustrated but happy it's over.
I've got some more news on plenum chamber holes but will send this on a PM as there's more pictures and I'm not sure how many lotuselan.net allow to be sent.
- Second Gear
- Posts: 92
- Joined: 29 Oct 2005
- Location: Woking
I can understand your frustration; you have, to your credit, persisted in your determination to sort the issue out.
But, perhaps time to move on with the other items on your list to sort out and get some satisfaction with positive achievements.
Always the best policy following a session you’ve just been in.
You can at any time return to the issue, even on a completed car, only a panel to remove, as I think the issue is with your Heater box lever position, or the cable adjustment or cable itself.
What can be seen clearly from your photos and comments are:-
1) The dash heater control levers can be seen to move the maximum, from lug to lug (3rd and 4th photo on 1st post). When the cables are not connected to the heater box and not connected to the dash. So Full movement.
2) The dash heater control levers CAN move from Hot to Cold when connected to the dash, following several different settings, as shown in your last photos. So this shows that the levers are screwed to the dash in the correct position i.e. centrally.
3) Your Heater box flap moves from Open to Closed when not connected to the cables.
So this suggests that you can fit and leave the Dash and Heater box in position.
My thinking is the issue is with the Heater box flap position, cable adjustment or combination of the two and also the cable itself. The first two can be returned to at any future time. If it’s the cable, perhaps best leave it as it is and adjust it to your preference, max Hot or max Cold.
But and this is a big But, do not bolt the dash in position until you have checked all your electrics, switches, controls and instruments out, because, unless you are very lucky, you will find some problems. Earth wires and wire connections, broken switch etc.
Wishing you all the best with your project and always ask on the forum if you have problems, you will always get answers.
I sorted all my problems out on the forum via searches or actual questions, to get the car back on the road after more than 30 years of hibernation.
1968 Elan +2 50/0173
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 513
- Joined: 30 May 2007
- Location: Ranton, Nr Stafford. UK
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