Continuing with the engine dismantling
Removing the cam chain adjuster bolt
Removing the camshaft sprockets - note the long cam bolt to prevent cam breakages buy putting the front section of the cam from the sprocket to the first bearing under compression from the bolt.
Thermostat housing off - note air bleed hole in thermostat
Removing the cams. Take care to release the bearings evenly a little at a time to allow the cam to be pushed up by the valves that are still open without getting excessive bending stress in the cam by having one end clamped down with the other released and the valve springs pushing up on the free end. I use a tube spanner for quick removal and to reach over the long cam cover retaining studs.
Some cam bearing damage from the metal through the engine but not catastrophic and no damage to cams or cam shaft journals
I use a lot of these multi compartment plastic storage boxes. Easy to see whats in them to find parts and easy to keep parts in order so they go back in the same place.
Using a valve grinding sucker stick to remove the cam followers. The shim generally comes out with the follower stuck to the follower shim pad with a film of oil.
When I got to No4 inlet follower it was rocking in the sleeve bore. You can clearly see the wear in the sleeve at the top as the sleeve wall remaining gets thinner towards the cam sides where it carries sideways load from the cam turning. The wear appears limited to just the top section of the sleeve and the followers are undamaged . High lift cams ( I am using 0.46 inlet) with a small 1.010 base circle can give this problem as the longer follower comes out of the sleeve further than normal putting more load on the sleeve. It appears only one sleeve has suffered this failure but I will need to measure them all carefully once the valves are removed. I will need to think about ways to reduce the risk of this in the future. Another item of machine shop work to be done replacing the sleeves where needed
to be continued .......
cheers
Rohan