Valve Clearance Checking After Re-Shimming
Posted: Tue Oct 29, 2019 5:50 pm
I am in the process of changing some of the shims to get correct tolerances.
Camshafts have been removed and all parts laid out on the bench. I have also kept the tension on the timing chain by using a bungee hooked over a garage crossbeam above the engine.
My question is concerning the best way of re-checking the valve clearances knowing from past experience that no matter how accurately you measure the replacement shims you won't necessarily end up with the correct valve clearance the first time round!
Is it best to do one camshaft at a time and rotate it with the timing chain still removed from the sprocket using a spanner on the sprocket bolt, in which case I guess you have to rotate the crankshaft from the TDC position to prevent valves hitting pistons? Or is it better and safer to do both camshafts and put the chain back in position, re-tighten chain and then turn the engine over manually.
If I did have to rotate the engine with the chain still removed from the sprocket, how far does it have to be rotated. What I don't want is for the chain to slip off the crank or jack shaft gears and lose my ignition timing.
Thanks for any tips and advice on this matter.
Camshafts have been removed and all parts laid out on the bench. I have also kept the tension on the timing chain by using a bungee hooked over a garage crossbeam above the engine.
My question is concerning the best way of re-checking the valve clearances knowing from past experience that no matter how accurately you measure the replacement shims you won't necessarily end up with the correct valve clearance the first time round!
Is it best to do one camshaft at a time and rotate it with the timing chain still removed from the sprocket using a spanner on the sprocket bolt, in which case I guess you have to rotate the crankshaft from the TDC position to prevent valves hitting pistons? Or is it better and safer to do both camshafts and put the chain back in position, re-tighten chain and then turn the engine over manually.
If I did have to rotate the engine with the chain still removed from the sprocket, how far does it have to be rotated. What I don't want is for the chain to slip off the crank or jack shaft gears and lose my ignition timing.
Thanks for any tips and advice on this matter.