Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

I have installed a pertronics flame thrower distributor on my rebuilt engine. The engine is out of the car. I would like to static time the ignition system as it will be easier to set at this time. I understand the mechanics for static timing with points, but with the pointless system and no instruction sheet want to ask prior to jumping in and bodging the ignitor unit....Is there a proceedure? Should I connect the coil and battery or can I do it with just a voltmeter? ( Engine is at TDC and I figured 12deg advance as a start. Negative ground system)
Greg

this might be helpful:

http://www.ttalk.info/PertronixStaticNeg.htm

You might want to refer to this thread relative to the amount of static timing:

viewtopic.php?f=19&t=41666&hilit=pertronix

If you have the same Pertronix that I have, D1905, a 12 deg static, that you were going to start with, will yield 36 degrees total at 3000 rpm. Probably a bit high but I don't know your engine spec.

I am using 9 deg static for a total of 33, CR 10.25:1. No pinging.

Thanks for the info. This is just a baseline to get the engine started as I would be guessing otherwise.
This engine is stroked with a "PINTO" crank and has QED 420 cams. So I will start with a 9 deg. advance.
There is so much information on this website it can be overlooked if the search is done incorrectly. Your assistance in the search is greatly appreciated.
Greg

Which distributor did you install? Some of the Pertronix ones can?t be static timed. Having just gone through this, it was very annoying.

My suggestion is to just eyeball it. I?d err on the side of over advanced when you are guessing at it.

Once you?ve got it fired up you can get a timing light and sort it. I believe the lotus petronix distributor has 24 degrees of advance.

The original Pertronix Ignitor uses magnets in a wheel... it can be accurately static timed like you would breaker points.

The later Pertrronix Ignitor II and III use a Hall Effect sensor, and can't be static timed.

Which do you have?

Regards,
Tim Engel

Its not the Hall effect sensor ( which uses magnets) however its the electronics that stop static timing in many modern systems as they don't turn on to start firing until the engine is at cranking revs. This is to protect the electronics so the are not triggered with the engine stopped but the ignition on and can overheat.

cheers
Rohan

this is how I did it:

look at the dist cap from underneath and use a piece of tape to mark the precise location of the #1 cylinder post on the outside of the cap, Then turn the engine to TDC by hand, then adjust the distributor until the leading edge of the rotor lines up with the tape (#1 post) when the cap is in place. You may have to pull the dist out and reinsert to get the gears to line up with the dist body in the right position (leads facing away from the block)
You have to make sure that you have the engine close to TDC and #1 firing (both cam lobes for #4 facing inwards).
this a rough procedure that will allow you to start the engine, it will probably run crappy until you set the timing with a light
Carlos G

Carlos,
That is basically what I have done but it seems impossible to static time. I will also check the distributor id .
Thanks all for the comments so far.
Greg

I've static timed my engine with "Petronix I" module fitted using test lamp method successfully on the engine stand.

I'd expect/hope that one of the Pertronix Disti would come with higher end modules installed, which likely means you'll just have to align the rotor arm to the right location and adjust once running. You may also have to do some adjustment just to get it timed to point t will start.

I checked my distributor...it is a Flame Thrower D 1905.
Will be putting the engine in this week end.
Greg