Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

Hi guys

Never really done anything like this before but... A few weeks ago, I removed my engine (without gearbox) and sent it over to a race engine specialist. It?s been ported, re-cammed, and re-valved. On their dyno they suggest 146bhp?

I now have the job of re-installing, and sure would appreciate any top tips. Or even basic tips to be honest! The car is on a lift, and I hired a crane for the removal, and will probably do same for re-fit. Obviously I appreciate re-install is just reverse of removal, and I can manage that fine. But i?m particularly interested in matching up the gearbox and engine in situ, before bolting them together again!

Really appreciate any help!

Regards

Andy

Edited to add: Photos are all of removal. Engine looks cleaner now!

That's how I did mine.


I found it a great help to get the rear of the car higher than the front. Then the unit itself does not have to be at such an angle. Then with a hero underneath it is relatively easy to use the leverage of the gearbox to shift the whole thing about.

Mine's a 5 speed and "officially" it should have had the propshaft also connected but I just split it at the front U/J splines. Mind you I have a Spyder chassis which does make access a lot easier.

I've only done it a few times so no expert but a couple of things you might want to consider before you start.....
Check the clutch plate is centred properly.
Check the dowels are still in place in the back of the engine.
Use a spirit level to measure the angle of the mounting face of the bell housing and sling the engine at the same angle.
Don't forget to fit the sandwich plate !
You will probably need to rock the engine or rotate the crankshaft to get the splines to engage in the clutch disc ... or if your lucky it will slide straight in.

It's unlikely to be as quick as removal!
Engine to gearbox mating is always a bit of a lottery.
Sometimes they just slide together other times you just have be very patient getting them parallel and the right height and turning input shaft to engage clutch splines.
Let's hope it's the former.
Having a helper is a must as so many things to get right at the same time.
I've spent far too long trying to join them out of the car by myself before now!

Andy,

My car is an S4 Elan, and I currently have the chassis and transmission separate from the body. Alignment, as mentioned by others is critical, and even without the body on I find it difficult to align engine and gearbox correctly. What has helped me a great deal is a couple of long bolts, one on either side. I put them in the position above the bolts that pass through the dowels. This enables fairly good alignment as the engine and gearbox come together. The engine cannot rotate out of line, and you can then concentrate on keeping the the flange gap betwee engine and gearbox parallel as they slide together.

Hope this helps

Richard Hawkins

A well centred clutch drive plate, some coppaslip on the input shaft splines then removed with a rag leaving just a trace in the grooves, gearbox jacked up as far at the front as it will go, correct alignment in 3 planes and it should slip in like a slippery stick up a dogs jacksee

Dont forget the bellhousing closing plate!

Yes guide pins are the way to go if joining out of the car.
Presumably if they aren't too long then they can do the same in situ.

What did you sling around on the exhaust side? Engine mount bracket?

I'd always put the sling under the engine so its not nust hooled onto something.

Put scissor jack under bellhousing and raise as far as possible.
I use some fine string through the 2 dowel holes to hold the sandwich plate in place. This is removed just as the engine and bellhousing come together.
Remove exhaust studs and clean out threads to full depth and apply copperslip for assembly of studs by finger when engine has been fitted to gearbox. Put exhaust manifold in engine bay and tie to one side out of the way.
Put in gear so when aligning clutch you can put a spanner on crankshaft puller and rotate untill splines slide into clutch.
Put lifting strap around engine so it will not get caught up on exhaust manifold.
Keep cool and don't force the bolts in holding the engine to gearbox.
Don't let weight of engine hang on gearbox input shaft.
Good luck
Alan

alan.barker wrote:Don't let weight of engine hang on gearbox input shaft.
Alan

That's one of the main reasons I fit them as a unit. As some point it is very difficult not to put serious side force onto the input shaft.

If you can arrange to have some small tilt adjustment it is a great help.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323347128152
Same place you hire the crane from?

When installing both together then a single sling behind #2 inlet and under high part of sump gives about the right angle of dangle to get the 'box into the tunnel.
The usual pita is the bellhousing jam which has to be overcome by lowering the unit in from above and moving back simultaneously whilst ensuring that the gearbox tail is in the tunnel.
As I say theoretically possible single handed but . . .

I have done it many many times single handed. Its easier and less stressful as you don't need to worry about your helper stuffing something up

Patience is all that is needed and the only challenge is fitting the last 2 inches of the engine into the gearbox. Keep the engine and gear box exactly aligned buy measuring the bell housing to engine gap top to bottom and side to side. Use a couple of long bolts to slowly and gently help pull them together but stop if you feel any real resistance and check alignment and jiggle the engine and slightly rotate the crank back and forward. Once the splines engage it normally slips straight in if properly aligned.

It helps to have the gear box front fully jacked up as high as possible until it hits the body or chassis cross member above it. Check the gear change lever is not fouling the body and chassis when you do this. This enables the engine to be lined up when not fully engaged as the front of the engine is above the chassis cross member.

Once its in far enough you can lower both the engine and gear box as the engine nose now clears the chassis cross member and this makes working on the final alignment and bolting up easier.

If I pulled it out I can certainly put it back in has always been my mantra

cheers
Rohan

Really appreciate the help guys.

Lots of top tips.

Very many thanks.

I will let you know how it goes.

Regards

Andy

So I?ve got the engine within an inch of the bell housing. I was expecting to just be able to rock the whole thing, and some miracle to happen as it all slotted into place? Click!! No such luck!

I?m using a couple of guide bolts (3?) in the holes above the dowels. They are seated nicely, and so far I?ve managed to tighten them a good inch or more into the bell housing. So as far as I can tell, everything is lined up nicely. The gap looks even all the way round, but try as I might, I can?t get the bloody thing to gently slide into place!

I definitely centralised the clutch plate, and I?ve remembered the sandwich plate. I?ve also put the car in gear and used a spanner on the crank pulley to move the clutch plate/flywheel, to try to locate the spigot.

Nothing!

So. Is it possible to just use my locating bolts to pull the two parts together??? Is the 1? gap I currently have, enough to suggest the the spigot is roughly located?

Really appreciate any helpful advice. Cheers.

Edited to add:

Having re-read my own thread! It looks like easing the bolts is the way to go! Will see what happens!

NEWSFLASH!

Within 5 mins of coming back to the garage. It seems to have worked! Must have been the cup of tea?!

Andy