Lotus Elan

Disaster strikes again..

PostPost by: 2cams70 » Sun May 06, 2018 11:37 pm

At least you made it hideously ugly enough so it's not likely to stay there permanently!
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon May 07, 2018 5:43 am

My welding looks rubbish but appears to be strong enough. Had to recondition the MIG before starting, as I've not used it for about 14 years.
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PostPost by: pauljones » Mon May 07, 2018 5:45 am

Jon.

Great fix. Hope it lasts for you.

If you need too pop over my side of the border and we can try drilling it together. What could possibly go wrong??

Paul

PS. I got a cross member that needs a cut n shut and engine mounts need making so bring the mig.
Kick the tyres and light them fires...!!!!!!!
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon May 07, 2018 6:18 am

Bring the MIG? You want Mr Blobby all over your chassis? :lol:

Or can you do it?
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PostPost by: JJDraper » Tue May 08, 2018 6:40 am

You may wish to add your efforts to the attached booklet...

Jeremy
:)
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PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Tue May 08, 2018 7:49 am

Should be essential reading for every Lotus owner!
Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine!
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PostPost by: Chancer » Tue May 08, 2018 12:05 pm

The very first repair listed I did to a Campervan in a motorway services and not only completed the journey but completed my touring holiday!

Its amazing how little vibration and imbalance there is from a 4 cylinder 4 stroke engine running on 3 cylinders if the redundant reciprocating parts are removed.
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PostPost by: pharriso » Thu May 10, 2018 11:30 am

Phil Harrison
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
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PostPost by: JonB » Thu May 10, 2018 7:02 pm

Thanks Phil. Bit late, but thanks anyway! :D

I must say, I've never got my MIG welder to work like that. In the video he makes a puddle weld in the inside of the nut. The result is really neat. Mine on the other hand was utter [email protected] and wouldn't stick to the stud. It was only after I'd knackered the stud remains that I found out the gas regulator on my MIG was toast (not letting any gas through).

Impatience strikes again. :roll:

Now I am wondering if I could build up a blob of weld and use that to unscrew the remains. But I'm getting very risk averse!
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Thu May 10, 2018 7:49 pm

You probably could build the stud up a bit and then weld a nut on, all the heat any messing around may well loosen the corrosion and allow extraction.
If it all shears again then you can revert to your jury rig for the prom.

Obviously before you work on the car you'll have done some practice on scrap and be more confident of success.
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Fri May 11, 2018 12:55 am

Hate to be a pessimist but it's never as easy as shown in videos! There's a reason why the head broke off the bolt and that's because the thread is frozen solid with corrosion. If you weld a nut onto what's left of the bolt the only thing that's changed with the situation is the hope that the welding heat may have loosened the thread a little but more likely the welding heat has softened the bolt steel making the likelihood of the welded on nut shearing off again even more likely. Welding something onto a broken bolt usually works when the flats on the head have been rounded off but not for cases where the issue is caused by thread corrosion.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri May 11, 2018 4:51 am

Hi Jon,
sorry to say but are you a trained Welder :wink:
You can remove the Cylinder Head in an hour and get it to a Machine Shop to do the job correctly.
Best of luck
Alan
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri May 11, 2018 6:20 am

No, I'm not a trained welder. Does it show? :lol:

I think I will take the head off as suggested, but after the prom. Speaking of which, my daughter said she had a couple of mates who wanted to join us, so I got her to sit in the back of the car to see if they would fit.

I don't think they'll be coming after that experience. "Plus 2" my backside... 2 gnomes perhaps..
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri May 11, 2018 7:45 am

The last thing i would want to see is the Cylinder Head damaged ana you get fed up with your +2.
When the Cylinder Head is at the Machine Shop i suggest that they remove the Exhaust Studs also.
Then you can fit new Exhaust Studs and screw them into the Head by HAND with lots of Copperslip on the threads.
Assemble Manifold with spring washers and BRASS NUTS.
Before you fit the Head make sure all the Studs screw into the Head by hand the full depth.
Fit the Head WITHOUT the Studs so they do not get in the way with the Exhaust Manifold.
Sorry to tell you how to suck eggs but after 45 years working on Twin Cams i am starting to know the ropes :roll:
I hope your Heath Robinson bodge holds out during the drive.
Alan
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri May 11, 2018 10:33 am

Alan, I will test it beforehand, you can be sure of that!

The exhaust studs already have brass nuts on them, fortunately, so I am not worried. As far as removing them is concerned, I'm of a mind to "let sleeping dogs lie". Definitely not up for more sheared stud fun!

About exhaust stud replacements - I read that S/S Allen bolts was a recommendation. Thoughts?
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