+2S Engine removal to fix oil leaks

[seniorchristo]

My twincam had a substantial oil leak from the cam cover cap so I replaced the rubber seal. For some reason the leak was worse. So I fabbed up a plate similar to john p. clegg's and although it is much better there is still a drip. I tried bending the ears on cap to increase the seal tightness but no luck. Next step will be to shim the seal. Such a time!

Oil still splashes like crazy around the plate.

[JonB]

Your cam cover gasket looks better than mine does..

On anther thread I discuss the breather. I think mine is partially blocked and this, no doubt, is contributing to the leakage. Will find out soon!

[mbell]

I'd make sure the cap is securing against boths pins. I found that mine was slipping off one pin as some wear on them. I found flipping the seal over in the cap and relaxing the clamping force of the cap (to prevent is slipping off one of the pins) significantly improved things (yet to 100% confirm it fixed it.)

[JonB]

OK, so a quick update.

Pulled the engine using the procedure in the service manual. Clearly, I've been overthinking this as it was reasonably straightforward. Gearbox is still in there but I will remove it today. I was able to undo the top bell housing bolts after all and as predicted the radio suppression plate slid out after loosening the bolts. The only real problem I encountered was the 4 branch manifold, which I could not separate from the Y piece. This meant it had to stay in the chassis (sort of loose and wrapped round the side of the engine) until I lifted the engine out, then I could remove it.

So far I have not been able to work out how to remove the prop shaft by separating the splines. Might have to indo the U/J bolts, but that's fair enough as I will probably fit new joints front and rear and I've got to adjust the diff pinion nut.

[Bigbaldybloke]

Drain the gearbox oil, remove the gear lever , speedo cable and clutch slave cylinder and you should then be able to undo the gearbox mount and pull it forward off the splined joint on the propshaft. Probably spill a bit of oil as some gets trapped in the tail shaft and doesn?t drain easily. Should pull forward easily once it?s all undone. Good luck.

[draenog]

Your engine looks to have a cam cover from a Europa?

[Craven]

It?s not just the cam cover but the head as well!

[mbell]

If it's a 5 speed the prop is bolted and the spine doesn't separate. Unit the diff end and slide the prop out with the box.

[JonB]

@mbell, yes it does. There is a threaded collar that comes loose once a bit of torque is applied. At least on my car.

So, onward. I have the gearbox removed, it slid forward and dropped down easily enough. Spent the day degreasing the thing and the engine - they are both looking much cleaner now (not perfect mind, but I can see aluminium / engine paint now instead of horrid greasy black gunk. Had a play with the gear change and can see what needs to be done to improve it. A "Vince Reynard Special" is required! Clutch plate is on its last legs with the rivets about to start scoring the pressure plate or flywheel. All the clutch actuation gubbins look to be in good order so I may leave the pressure bearing as is. Maybe re-grease it.

One thing I noticed. There's a bit of play in the splined propshaft joint. Might explain the high speed vibration - should I be worried? I can see where grease has been spraying out of it.

Took the cam cover off for a quick look at the timing. Spot on as it turns out! QED rebuilt this thing 50,000 miles ago and it sure shows. I think all it needs (apart from all the oil seals and gaskets) is valve shims. Maybe some new valve guides but I'm not too bothered (Spyder made a comment about it but I've never seen any puffs of smoke).

I need to order a stack of new gaskets now. Including the gearbox cover gasket and the 5th gear / reverse gate spring housing gasket (after I find a weaker spring for it).

While it is out I am doing the dashboard (temperature gauge easier to remove with the engine out of the way) and heater box, plus the steering column bushes and fitting new rack mount rubbers. I probably need to recore my radiator as well (some of the fins have rusted away).

Regarding provenance of my head and cam cover - I've seen that same cover on other +2 S130s. What is it about the head that suggests it's from a Europa?

[mbell]

@mbell, yes it does. There is a threaded collar that comes loose once a bit of torque is applied. At least on my car.

You are right but if you split it there you risk unbalancing the prop shaft if you don't replace it in the exact same relative position, which is tricky to do in the tunnel on the car. So I regard it better to remove the prop at the diff end not risk it.

[draenog]

Regarding provenance of my head and cam cover - I've seen that same cover on other +2 S130s. What is it about the head that suggests it's from a Europa?

The cam cover has a filled half moon cut out at the back:

http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=20492&start=

On the Europa the inlet cam had a pulley on it that was used to drive the alternator. As you can see from the link, others have used Europa covers on Elans so it's not a problem...

[Craven]

Europa has an alternator driven from the back of inlet camshaft, your head has an extra cast in boss that accepts the support/seal for the alternator drive. Casting difference is clearly visible to compare with the exhaust side that has a standard ?D? rubber plug normally fitted both sides.

[JonB]

Agree re Europa part, but my cover has a cast moulding that is not machined for the shaft. I suggest it's a casting for both cars. Looking closely at it...

..and there is no evidence it's been filled when you look at the inside of the casting. Just not machined for the Europa. Well spotted, though!

[JonB]

When did I embark on this madness?

I've had the engine out (per picture), cleaned it up, replaced all the oil seals and done the same with the gearbox. Refitted the lot and it still leaks. Pulled it again (and the box, along with the prop shaft and diff), found the top bolts on the selector cover not torqued up properly. My fault but even so..

Refitted both top covers with new gaskets smeared with Wellseal, smeared RTV on the speedo drive seals, got the diff and propshaft overhauled professionally then put the lot back in the car.

Result is it still leaks. Especially the gear box! The engine may be leaking from the evil top cover, and / or the fuel pump cover plate (as I fitted an electric pump while I was in there). The plate is a home made item and may not be completely flat, though when I took it off and checked it, I filed it down and refitted with a paper gasket and RTV. Took the pump spacer (heat insulator more like) away on the grounds that it's not needed. Might have to buy a proper plate at this rate!

[JonB]

Quick follow up on this thread. I think the gearbox leak is caused by the breather bolt I fitted, so have removed that and blanked the hole. Problem solved. Engine is still leaking a little from the timing chest seal bit it looks like everything else is OK.