Misfire then will not pull up hill.
25 posts
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I'm sure there was a topic on here recently with a similar problem.
My first drive with Toad and it started a misfire after a couple of miles. Then stalled at a road junction with a steep hill. (I should have taken the hint!)
I coasted to the bottom and then it refused to climb.
Any application of load and it bogged right down to the point of stall.
In neutral it would rev OK. Not exactly cleanly but any suggestion of letting the clutch in - no power.
1 hour later it drove easily up the (greater) slope onto the pick up truck.
What was the solution before? Coil (new!)? Accuspark Ignition (also new!)?
It gave the impression of fuel starvation but why would it work an hour later when cooled off?
My first drive with Toad and it started a misfire after a couple of miles. Then stalled at a road junction with a steep hill. (I should have taken the hint!)
I coasted to the bottom and then it refused to climb.
Any application of load and it bogged right down to the point of stall.
In neutral it would rev OK. Not exactly cleanly but any suggestion of letting the clutch in - no power.
1 hour later it drove easily up the (greater) slope onto the pick up truck.
What was the solution before? Coil (new!)? Accuspark Ignition (also new!)?
It gave the impression of fuel starvation but why would it work an hour later when cooled off?
- vincereynard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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I had a similar problem, not so much misfire, but would die when it warmed up and be ok after it cooled off. It was a brand new engine. After trying many things that did not work, I read on here about black vs red rotors. Seems there was a batch of black rotors that were faulty. Changed my new black rotor for a new red one and problem disappeared.
Bob
Bob
Bob Bulfin
1969 Elan S4 DHC
Mobile, AL USA
1969 Elan S4 DHC
Mobile, AL USA
- bulfin
- Second Gear
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A similar problem with mine turned out to be a very slight suction leak (loose fitting) in the fuel line.
- webbslinger
- Second Gear
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I had exactly the same symptoms recently which I thought was a failing coil or electronic ignition. It turned out to be a partial blockage of the fuel line at the banjo bolt where it exits the tank (on a Plus2).
- steve.thomas
- Second Gear
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- Joined: 24 Jun 2010
Thanks for the replies chaps. It saves me beating it to bits with a handy scaffold pole.
The filter in the pump?
New accuspark distributor with a red arm.
20 litres of new super unleaded into a virtually empty tank.
New "alloy" tank and fittings so it should be pristine. (Although there is the Spyder element!)
Plan 1 is to chuck the existing, replacement fuel pump into a bin, which I had already wasted a week or so sealing, and fit an electric pump. Perhaps with an additional switch in the live feed to turn it off before entering the garage to drain the carbs and help prevent nasty niffs.
Gardog wrote:Have you checked the fuel filter?
I had a similar problem. My filter would clog under high flow (uphill) then partially clear after sitting for a short while.
The filter in the pump?
bulfin wrote: Seems there was a batch of black rotors that were faulty. Changed my new black rotor for a new red one and problem disappeared. Bob
New accuspark distributor with a red arm.
That's a possible but I did spend quite a while checking that possibility to cure the strong fuel smell.webbslinger wrote:A similar problem with mine turned out to be a very slight suction leak (loose fitting) in the fuel line.
mgfollett wrote:sounds like old/ bad fuel to me!?!
Good luck!
20 litres of new super unleaded into a virtually empty tank.
steve.thomas wrote:I had exactly the same symptoms recently which I thought was a failing coil or electronic ignition. It turned out to be a partial blockage of the fuel line at the banjo bolt where it exits the tank (on a Plus2).
New "alloy" tank and fittings so it should be pristine. (Although there is the Spyder element!)
Plan 1 is to chuck the existing, replacement fuel pump into a bin, which I had already wasted a week or so sealing, and fit an electric pump. Perhaps with an additional switch in the live feed to turn it off before entering the garage to drain the carbs and help prevent nasty niffs.
- vincereynard
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My money's on the coil or some other ignition fault. FWIW lol
1970 S4SE/1760cc big valve/SA-AX block, L2s, 45DCOEs, 1978 Jensen GT, 1962 AH Sprite, Alfa-Romeo 159, 1966 Bristol Bus, 1947 AEC Regal bus.
- nigelrbfurness
- Fourth Gear
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Vince
I feel that it is an electrical problem ie: coil or ignition. new equipment can fail !
Whatever it is tell the forum when you solve it
I feel that it is an electrical problem ie: coil or ignition. new equipment can fail !
Whatever it is tell the forum when you solve it
John
+2s130 1971
+2s130 1971
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Hawksfield - Fourth Gear
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Given that I am going to change the fuel pump to electric, (there is a post somewhere about the dubious fuel pump), it is almost certain to be an ignition problem.
Anyone got a known good coil I could borrow - just in case?
Anyone got a known good coil I could borrow - just in case?
Last edited by vincereynard on Sat Oct 14, 2017 10:02 pm, edited 2 times in total.
- vincereynard
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AHM wrote:As above fuel - change the fuel filter if you have one.
I hope you are right! I'm thinking of fitting hinges to the top carb. / manifold bolts. It would save a lot of effort.
What is the difference between these two? Both Facet Silver top.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Facet-Silver- ... 1197621952 It states 6.5 > 7.0 psi.
https://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/car-acc ... -pump-kit/ It states 4.0 > 4.5 psi
I will need an adapter that goes from 6mm nylon (the existing fuel pipe ) to 8mm (internal) to connect between existing and the pump (or, perhaps , a filter before the pump.)
- vincereynard
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..and don't forget the regulator to reduce the pressure to approx 2.5 psi.
John
John
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john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
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25 posts
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