Elan Sprint-Engine appears to sit very high *Bonnet*

[bloodknock]

I know its hard to believe, but the vast majority of the parts i'm using are the originals removed from the car. In the case of the manifolds, they're original that have just been ceramic coated, I cant imagine that the ceramic added much to the diameter, so it must be a function of the chassis???? I recon that the actual interferrence is marginal, just touching, but as the engine runs and bucks under torque there would be a real clatter. So, somethings got to be done! I feel another strip down looming

[alan.barker]

Are the spacers between the engine mount and block on the exhaust side the right length
Alan

[prezoom]

I too was concerned about engine height to the bonnet, when I was doing my Zetec conversion. I set the engine in the chassis, attached to the transmission, which was bolted in with the original mount, prior to making the new engine mounts. The engine was resting on a floor jack. I took a piece of wood and traced the outline of the outside of the bonnet at a point where the engine was going to be the highest. Then cut the wood at the outline mark. Resting on the body, the wood bridged the engine compartment and when placed over the engine high point, gave me a reference as to the engine location in relationship to the hood. When sufficient clearance was determined, the engine was then blocked in place and the new engine mounts constructed. It was a quick, easy way to make sure everything would clear. When I purchased my S2, the bonnet was touching the top of front Weber at its high point. Some trimming of the bonded in paper tube, and lowering the engine was required.

[bloodknock]

Ive just dismantled the exhaust side - removed the dynamo, engine mount and spacers clutch hydraulics and the manifold to try to get room to "adjust" the chassis near the manifold.

What length should the spacers be? mine are 1 and1/8 inches

Any help with the best way to remove the unwanted material (Engine in car) would be welcome
Regards
Bob

[ericbushby]

Bob,
My spacers are also 1 and 1/8".
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC ( in the thick of fitting c/v shafts )

[alan.barker]

Looks like you will need to make a tool to bent/tweak the Chassis flange. Not easy with Engine in place, that's why i cut filed the Chassis flange on my Sprint. Nice smooth curves.
Alan

[rgh0]

Ive just dismantled the exhaust side - removed the dynamo, engine mount and spacers clutch hydraulics and the manifold to try to get room to "adjust" the chassis near the manifold.

Chassis adjustment manifold clearance.JPG

What length should the spacers be? mine are 1 and1/8 inches

Engine mount spacer NS 2.JPG

Any help with the best way to remove the unwanted material (Engine in car) would be welcome
Regards
Bob

The galvanised chassis have the same flange dimensions from what I have seen. But amybe the location of the engine mounts is off by a bit on your particualr chassis If you truly have an original header and its hits the chassis then its maybe a standard Lotus almost right fitment from new part . I find it hard to believe though that the headers are original given how they corroded especially with the higher sulfur levels in fuel back then.

iIs a bit late to bend the headers in tighter to the block as they are now ceramic coated. You need to adjust the chassis or perhaps try spacing the engine more to the carb side. I had to do that with my TTR headers to get clearance with the fibreglass footwell despite the chassis cut out being adequate.

cheers
Rohan

[alan.barker]

Imho they are not original exhaust manifolds.
On my Sprint (Lotus galvanised chassis) they are replacement stainless and you need to adjust.
Alan

[512BB]

I can confirm that Bob's manifolds are entirely original. I noticed them when he posted pictures and thought that they had lasted well, but if you consider that the car was taken off the road in the eighties and may well have done very little mileage and then been dry stored.

I have 2 sets hanging in my workshop, exactly the same shape, in that the profile is not completely round, and that is what was fitted to my Sprint coming up 40 years ago. If you look carefully at the pictures, you will see what I mean.

Leslie

[MarkDa]

Bob
You may get two birds with one stone if you file out the carb side engine mounting and rock the manifold away from chassis.
Putting mounts on the front side of the brackets might help a little bit, and finally maybe a washer or two to lengthen the spacers as Rohan suggested might be needed. Indeed this last might well do it alone and might satisfy your originality inclinations.
With a bit of luck you should avoid pulling the engine out and bashing the chassis.
I put NOS mild steel headers into a galvanised chassis this year and they didn't touch, so I got lucky I guess.
Having said that the originals in a standard chassis never fouled either.
You don't need a lot of clearance not touching is not touching!
Mark

[alan.barker]

I've just looked at the photo again and see what you mean. They have like a ridge around the bends just like the original manifolds i have hanging on my garage wall.
I must admit the original manifolds when they were on my Sprint were very close to the Chassis
The mounts should be fitted to the front of the Chassis Lugs
Alan

[StressCraxx]

I had fitting issues with the upgraded motor mounts as well.

I slotted the two bolt holes in the mounts that attach to the chassis until I had the desired clearance.

Regards,
Dan

[MarkDa]

Bob
I see that your mounts are in front of lugs so that really only leaves pushing the engine across a few mm to get the room you need.
Mark

[bloodknock]

Mark
I dont understand "mounts in front of lugs" Its probably me being thick.
Blood sweat & tears, well blood anyway! Whole day relieving the chassis next to the downpipe area using a hacksaw blade drill and files. The hacksaw blade making as much impression on my hand as it did on the chassis metal.
I've removed approx 15mm of material over the area of the down pipes see photos. Re assembly tomorrow.
Regards
Bob

[MarkDa]

Hi Bob
The engine mounts can bolt to the chassis either side of the brackets.
Alan has confirmed that mount on radiator side of bracket is correct as you seem to have them anyway.
No pain, no gain as they say!
Mark