Lotus Elan

Water Pump

PostPost by: Maulden7 » Sat Jul 15, 2017 4:21 pm

Right ..... after 30 years of bragging that I've never had a water pump seal fail (on Elan / Elan +2 / Cortina / Europa T/C Specials x 2) I've now got a very leaky water pump!

Due to health problems my S2 Elan had not been used at all on the road for nearly a year until last weekend (though it had been run up to temp in the garage a couple of times) so the failure was rather predictable, but what to do next?

What's the current thoughts (I have a replacement Lotus chassis) A simple / straighforward replacement, or one of the "capsule" options?

The engine was rebuilt in 2002 to circa 145bhp, & has had a decently hard life since then (& still performs great) as some here will have seen, so my inclination is to have the engine out & at least refreshed (having had excellent value already) so the water pump option is open!

Thanks for any views.

Dave M.
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PostPost by: gus » Sat Jul 15, 2017 7:38 pm

The strengths of the bolt in water pump are that now you have separated the water pump life cycle from the rest of the motor. It is only a minor nuisance to remove the pump rather than a decision on should I do valve guides....

truly a small investment in peace of mind.

If any of the kits sell a spare capsule, I would choose that one, as my mid eighties version now has a billet water pump
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PostPost by: mark030358 » Sat Jul 15, 2017 10:42 pm

I fitted a Burtons
unit and bought a spare module and built it up.
Absolute NO brainier and you really can't tell unless you are an anal arse obsessive... (yes we have those on here)...

Cassette every time
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Jul 16, 2017 12:20 am

They are expensive though!
You have to buy a new front and back of the timing case as well as the actual pump module.

The module flange has 3 extra threaded-holes, when you come to remove the pump you take out the three bolts that secure it through the timing case to the block and then you put those 3 bolts into the extra threaded holes and tighten them say a half turn each in rotation. It all then acts as its own 'puller' to get the pump module out.
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Jul 16, 2017 12:31 am

Bill Williams

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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Jul 16, 2017 12:32 am

I found an image in one of the messages of the full kit for a Burton conversion


Image
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PostPost by: Elanconvert » Sun Jul 16, 2017 10:51 am

if you are not a stickler for original look, fit davies craig electric......I did, and so far no problems or regrets....

:D fred :D
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PostPost by: Maulden7 » Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:21 am

Thanks all, excellent feedback & food for thought.

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PostPost by: englishmaninwales » Mon Jul 17, 2017 10:35 am

I fitted a Burton pump. Been reliable over 3 years 10k miles so far.
As for fitting:
Buy the pump capsule assembled (the photo above illustrates component form).
Check the back plate is straight and true, mine was slightly distorted, replaced but Burton.
Trial fit the front timing chest castings with temporarily fitted cylinder head/cams/tensioner/chain and check clearance of the chain, as on mine the casting required some fettling to give clearance.
Don't let Burton's attitude and attempts to fob you off make you cross.
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PostPost by: Foxie » Mon Jul 17, 2017 12:48 pm

I fitted a capsule conversion kit 14 years ago to a tall block. The front and back plates were higher than the block deck, so they were assembled to the bare block and machined level.

So this may needed to be checked.

The water pump never gave a problem over the 14 years, still going well ! :)
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